PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

Hey, I removed all of the AC components including the evaporator under the dash and now my heater doesn't blow hot air??? Do I need to put the AC evaporator back in or is there another fix for this?

Also, I dont know if its the very cold temps here or what but today my boost was crazy. I have 2 35mm tial wastegates with 8.5psi springs. They normally open at 10ish psi but today if I floored it, my boost needle would climb to 12 psi and then around 6k rpms my boost gauge would fire all the way to 20psi before I lifted. It "creeped" fast as hell.... Could the cold weather be doing this?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Same thing happened to me. I beleive it uses the same lines. At least i'm CA and freezing here is 68.

SLOW 7

Doesn't coolant flow into the evaporator when the heat is turned on? Then the fan blows air across the evaporator core and creates "heat"? Pretty sure there is no way around that one unless you are gonna suffer through the cold.

BTW, this is Andrew, that guy you followed home back in Melbourne. When are you bringing that beast down here?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

If I recall correctly the air flows through the heater, core, through the evaporator, then up through the dash. This is how you can have the a/c on to help defog the windows yet still blow hot air. There is no reason to remove the evaporator. Its not very heavy, is a pain to take out, and you gain nothing. Put it back together.

amp

iTrader: (50)

you dont need the evaporator for heating... check your heater core..

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

It sounds to me like he might have removed the wrong thing mistakingly.

LUPE

I don't see how he could have removed the wrong thing. He would have had to disconnect the coolant hoses/remove dash and that would have been messy.

Actually, it's Phil. I bet he removed the wrong thing

Phil, are you in St.Louis? We're going out Friday, check the Midwest Forum.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Cause you got the heater core, the condensor, then the blower motor. Its like 3 seperate boxes that fit together. I bet he pulled 2 or all of them. Let me see if I can get a pic.

amp

iTrader: (50)

ac is a closed system... bad information bein given here
most people not knowin what theyre doin.. remove the channel between the heater unit and the blower..
which is basically the plastic casing that surrounds the evaporator core..
if the entire evaporator core with plastic casing is removed... theyve essentially rendered the blower useless...

bkg

PDviper77 503 and running 12's 11's are around the corner, but yeah they are all seperate parts but prolly pulled all of them.

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

Well I know that I pulled the "right" part out. I think I figured it out. The blower motor blows through the heater core and AC evaporator then up to the vents. The part I took out doesn't allow the warm air to enter the vents. I am just going to put the evaporator back in for now cause its cold as **** here.

And Eric I am in STL for 2 weeks.

Anyone have any idea about my HUGE "boost" creep problem???

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

Whatsup man. Hopefully I didn't freak you out too much........ I should be bringing my car down to FL this fall semester. We will see what happens.

LUPE

I know what your problem is.

You shouldn't be racing your 500HP car in 30 degree weather dumbass. You're going to kill yourself.

See you Friday.

Busted7

If your getting a warm heater core and its circulating water you probley disabled or removed flaper or diverter that allowes air to pass threw core and directs it to the right duct. When you select or change air settings does it change or stay the same? You have a flap door that shuts of core when in the a/c mode. should be vacumn operated. That would be my guess.

bkg

yeah 30 is just a little cold in a 500hp rx7. I wish I had that problem to worry about.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

OK, let's straighten some things out.

Rightmost in the system is the blower motor. The blower motor's air passes through the evaporator, then to the heater core, then to the vents. The heater core itself is in the center of the car, and the evaporator is in the glove box.

If you removed the evaporator and didn't make a duct or something to go from the blower motor housing to the heater core, the motor will just blow a lot of air around behind the glove box.

You can either a) gut the evaporator and reinstall the housing, making a duct. b) fab a duct up of some kind. c) see if you can find the ultra-rare no-AC duct. Dunno if they ever came on US cars, maybe on Canadian cars that didn't have AC or JDM cars with no AC. I actually saw an FC in the junkyard once with the AC delete duct - snagged that sucker pronto.

Dale

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

Ok, I was going to "gut" the evaporator and reinstall it. Thanks for confirming that. Also I guess the cold air is making me creep.

This is the only car I have in STL right now and once it snows this friday it is being put in the garage. So you can pick me up, right Eric???

The air is so cold here that at 16-17psi before I lift due to the creep, my injector duty cycle is hitting around 94%. I should be fine because after I noticed this "problem" I have stayed out of boost.

Thanks Daleclark for the info.

LUPE

It's not supposed to snow, Phil.

Get Chris to pick you up, I don't get off work until 9pm and I work off Manchester/270.

Let me know, dude.

amp

iTrader: (50)

which is exactly what ive already stated...

jimlab

PN FD01-61-150B is the duct for A/C delete... or you can do what I did, which is gut the A/C duct and then plug the holes with ABS plastic panels. Unfortunately, I don't think I took any pictures of that mod.

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

I did, I will post pics tonight. I fixed it!!! Thanks again Dale Clark.

White94RX

don't forget that Mazda designed the system not to get very hot air out of the dash vents. put it on defrost or footwell vents and see if it's warm air.

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

Here is my gutted AC evaporater.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

A friend of mine makes these for the FD - $29.95

I ordered one last week, as I am removing the AC.

His web site is very slow - it doesn't seem to be working right.

Contact him at rxtasy2004@comcast.net.

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

Or you can gut it for free. Takes about 10 minutes, 5 screws and 2 clips........