i agree. i wish i knew this before i took it to him. he rushed through it and did not take time to fix the little things. my car isnt fun to drive any more :*( i think i am going to try to do it myself, maybe i will learn something new in the process.

 

If it was my car, that guy would be fixing it. I wouldn't care if he had to fly someone in from PR, Canada, or Japan to get it done; it would be at his cost to give me what I had already paid for an didn't receive.

 

But what do we do Mahjik? Take it back to him, he will gladly say "ok, I'll fix it". MONTHS will go by and he will say it's done, but it won't work right. So then what? Let him take it again for another 6 months, and it still won't work right. He wil never fly someone in to help or anyting of the sort, he will just continue to "work on it" and never get it right.

 

First thing you do is report him to the Better Business Bureau.

http://www.orlando.bbb.org/

(or which ever one is in your area)

Next, you take your car to him; tell him you want it fixed and you want it fixed quickly or you'll bring him to court. Also tell him that you'll be checking on the car twice a week until its ready.

Now, all this IMO would be pointless if you only spend a few hundred bucks at the shop. For a few thousand, it would be worth it but you have to be willing to document the problems/process and be willing to actually take him to court.

Once again, it depends on if the money you spent at his shop it worth it "to you". If I spend a few thousand at some shop, they will be getting it right.

 

ok...just my .02. ok any parts you bought through him is paid for....but why not ask for the labor money back so you can aake it to someone that knows what they are doing. if he does not know how to do it...there is no reason to take it back to him to let him experiment on your car, i wouldnt want them to do that. I would ask for my money back and take it somewhere where they can fix it properly. from orlando.....pettit racing is about 2-2 1/2 hours depending on how you drive. also japtrix as well. they are right up the street from eachother on northlake blvd i believe in west palm beach

 

i spent like 2400k there.

 

Holy Sh*t!

You and Rey put that man's kids through Med School!!

If you want a stomping rotary that is fairly reliable with no regard to stock engine mechanics, Fuego can do it. You all should see the numbers Rey is putting down with his Fuego rebuild.

BUT: It is not news to me that he doesn't want to mess with the stock seq. system or emissions at that. Ever since I have known his work he has been a big promoter of the Microtech, single/non-seq, no emissions regard heart stomping RX7. Feugo spits on thermal wax pellets and charcoal catch cans

I am not knocking him for this mindset, because that is how I built my car. I have never paid him for anything but, he should not tell you something that he doesn't follow through on. But, I have to ask, did everyone specifically talk to him about keeping stock emissions and sequential set up? Or, was it just assumed he would keep them? Did anyone just hand him a car and ask him to fix it/make it better?

 

Specifically ask him to return my car to me the way he received it?? Should I have to do that? I didn't ask him to make sure he left my stereo in there either, maybe I should have? Or since I didn't ask him to leave my stereo in it, would it be ok for him to take it out?

 

there are free COLOR CODED DIAGRAMS on the net, the system should not be that hard to hook back up if you have the right info. use the diagram to hook everything up that was left disconnected, double check, then drive.

http://www.turborx7.com/images/Techn...e_diagram2.jpg

you just had your engine rebuilt and immediately took it to the track? ever heard of breaking in and engine before you wail on it?

 

I NEVER TOLD HIM I WANTED TO KEEP IT BUT THATS FINE IF HE TOOK IT OFF. I AM NOT COMPLAINING ABOUT THAT, ITS JUST THAT NEITHER OF THE TURBOS ARE WORKING NOW. YOU CAN HEAR THEM BUT NO BOOST AT ALL. SLOWER THAN MY STOCK 4 CYL. REALLY PATHETIC

 

THANKS, I KNOW THIS. I PUT ABOUT 900 MILES ON IT SINCE THEN. I AM NOT AN IDIOT. THIS ISN'T THE FIRST CAR I HAVE OWNED. MY FIRST ONE WAS WAY FASTER AND FULLY BUILT. UNFORTUNATLY IT WAS A HONDA BUT WHEN I GOT IT HONDAS WERENT LOOKED DOWN UPON SO MUCH. IT HAD MICROTECH TOO BUT IT WAS A PROBLEM CHILD SO I SOLD IT NEVER GETTING A CHANCE TO RACE IT. YOU CAN SEE IT ON MY CARDOMAIN PAGE WWW.CARDOMAIN.COM/ID/H22TURBOLUDE

 

1st of all. its not a 4cyl..

CHECK the Y pipe connection....

goodluck..

 

No ****. Really It Isnt? I Checked That, It Isnt That Simple

 

lol,girl,theyre just trying to help.I know it can be frustrating but it shouldnt go that far.You feel like taking it back to Fuego,go right ahead.If you wanna play with it yourself,then do THAT instead.Just remember,once you get your hands in there,youre giving up your right to have him fixed what he messed up,because you"tooled"with it yourself.Again,if thats what you rather do,listen to the guys here......really,they can help!

 

she's probably talking about her prelude.

Don't bother messing with it yourself. Take it to Dale.

 

if my FD ran a 17sec et @ 80mph after Fuego messed with it.
I would probably run over Fuego(sp) with the FD..

as far as the Y pipe.. sometimes.. It only leaks boost while your on boost
if you know what I mean.

Do you here the wooshing sound all the time, even when you are just driving around
normally??

buy a cheap boost gauge and just rig it just to see what your turbos are doing.

 

A FD with just the first turbo working should easily run in the 15's with a good driver. I don't think either of your turbos are working. Even a large boost leak shouldn't make the car this slow. Fuego should at least be able to get your 7 running on the first turbo! Surely he can't mess things up any worse than having BOTH turbos not working. You should sue for pain and suffering of having a FD this slow at the track. How embarrasing!

 

apparently you don't know, because break in periods are around generally 2000 miles and you're supposed to stay off the boost during that time too.

give the diagram a shot or take it to dale and get him to help you. good luck.

 

girlracer, are you fd rey's girlfriend? saw the cardomain pic of you changing the plugs on a red FD, and the other pic of your prelude next to what looks like rey's old fd.

Also, break in periods are not 2000 miles. 1500 miles at the most (this is very conservative and for a full rebuild that includes new rotor and stat gear bearings) and typically staying off boost entirely is only recommended for the first 500 or so miles. After that running up to half a bar of boost is completely acceptable as long as you keep revs below 6k or so.

 

first off, i said around 2k... so we're arguing over a few miles here... and really, it depends on where you get your information and personal preference.

i probably shouldn't have said anything, since there are so many opinions and so much mis-information about engine break for any car... some people WOT 10 minutes after startup and some people, like me, wait over 1,500 miles.

i've read several resources where there was a recommended 1500 mile break in period for a rotary rebuild. if you feel safe doing otherwise, that's fine and i'm sure your motor is too.

 

Yes i am Rey's ex-gf. thanks, i think the guy who rebuilt my motor would know the propper break in time which he told me 500 miles. but when i raced it it took so long for it to reach the redline point i know those turbos arent working. i barely made in to 3rd gear. drove like it was N/A

 

Check the pre-spool flapper door. If it is disconnected from the TCA, it would still allow a few psi, but nothing like normal. If it was a half done non-seq. he may not have tied it open.

What about cats? Have any? Good, new cat back? Also, to leak that much boost your IC may be craked at a weld/joint somewhere. Stock IC?

 

Your never going to get this problem fixed.


Someone already offered to fix it for you, as far as I can tell, for FREE. That means..no money out of pocket (vs. Pettit) and no hasse (vs. Feugo)...


Why are you still here talking?

 

16.8 for a 13B? That's worse than stock numbers lol