waysho

So since my car has been in California is seems that the water level is constantly going down. I seem to be filling it with about a cup or two of water every other day. Burping it and it still happens. The reservoir is full. Thermostat is new. Im pretty much stock with Pettit aluminum AST. What could be the problem?

Dougie_fresh_007

are u leaking anything?

waysho

nope.. not a drop

HeatTreated

Is your car smoking unusually or idling awkwardly?

waysho

no, my car has a smooth idle, not lumpy at all, no smoke at all either. BTW, the water pump is new too. I wouldnt know anything was wrong if it wasnt for the coolant buzzer that likes to remind to top it off.

Dougie_fresh_007

how long ago did u get the pump

DCrosby

does it turn on and then off !? If you keep it idling and watch the temp gauge !?

If so Just keep on putting water in the reservoir, and don't top off for about a week or so just keep that reservoir full, and eventually it will stop...

Had the same problem when I did a rad. hose replacement and radiator flush...

-DC

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

That's sounds like the prewarning to o-ring failure. You should have the system pressure tested by a race shop that is honest. I would take it to Mazdatrix. Hopefully you have some bad hoses with ver small leaks which the water evaporates in the hot engine before it hits the floor. I had one towards the firewal with a slight break that looked like a knife cut. The two to the turbos don't handle the heat well. Do you have a real water temp gauge to know if you really are overheating?

If you can afford it:
* Pressure test cooling system for leaks (could be water tank on radiator or could be hoses)
...if it's the radiator water tank it can be replaced at a radiator shop and they can clean the core (if you can't buy an alumium one).
* check for champagne bubbles in filler neck.
* flush coolant at radiator shop only (dealer will only use a garden hose)
* replace "all" water hoses
* switch to evens coolant and replace cap with 0 psi cap.
* add one bottle of alumaseal (ok to use with evans)

adam c

iTrader: (2)

If there is air in lines, this will help.

When the engine is cold, slightly jack up the drivers front of the car. Disconnect the throttle body coolant line at the top. Remove the AST cap, and filler neck cap. Fill the ast, and cap when full, keeping an eye on the disconnected TB coolant line. If/when the TB coolant line starts to flow coolant, reconnect it. Fill the filler neck slowly, and cap when full. Reconnect the TB hose.

That should do it...... if you don't have any leaks.

waysho

Ill try that one when I change my oil tonight.

The thermostat and water pump were both replaced in January (my car wasnt driven from April to July). I have a defi temp gauge and I am no where near overheating. Today I started the car and drove about 3 blocks then the buzzer screams while Im sitting at a light, 4 seconds later it turns off, then another block and it does it again, on and then off after a couple of seconds. I pulled into a gas station and topped it off, burped it, and continued on my way. I wasnt even at 140 degrees.

I think once my garage isnt 120 degrees Ill change the coolant lines and get a koyo or fluidyne. The car runs fine as long as I top it off before going anywhere. The odd thing is that this NEVER happened in Miami. My car runs oddly cold. Most of the time Im at 180-190 degrees in 100 degree weather with the ac blasting. Im just a little worried about the water disappearing. I hope it isnt anything serious.

RotorJoe

They all have good points. It sounds like a bad o-ring to me (motor rebuild). But first I would put the car in the air let it get to full or a warmer operating temp and look at the water pump from all directions. See if you can see marks that may indicate that the water pump is leaking. Also check all other hoses with coolant running through them for the same indication. I doubt you will find any thing. If you do you may not need a rebuild. My buddies’ car had this same issue. It ran fine, boosted fine but ate coolant like mad. Every day he was out there filling it. To it to a shop (won't say the name) and it was miss-diagnosed for a bad water pump. They replaced the water pump, burped the system and that damn buzzing came back the very next day. Went and had the system rechecked and it still lost pressure. Sorry to say it sounds a lot like that. You may need a motor. I have done some searching and some people use a long and evolved "fix a flat coolant leak in a bottle" to fix the coolant seal o-ring. Good Luck, keep us informed.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Check for the never ending tiny (champagne or 7up size) bubbles in the filler neck with the engine on. Do this when the engine is cold, so you don't get burned taking off the cap'. Also check for coolant waves in the filler neck. As the car warms up and the coolant seems to go up and down and this causes the coolant light to go on and off (o-ring failure).

When I had air in the system I overheated. I did the steps AdamC said to get rid of the air and it did, unfortunately I still had o-ring failure.

Cihuuy

waysho, i had similar symptoms like you...

the problem wiv our stock radiator is that the plastic ends tends to crack! Mine was a really tiny tiny crack. As time passed, i kept on hearing a hissss sound which was getting louder and louder. Y not check your radiator first? or maybe the radiator hose?

waysho

well... it was the radiator as I thought. Found the leak last night while changing the oil. Good thing I was planning to get an aluminum radiator. Now the problem is deciding between a Koyo or a Fluidyne. Ive heard that the Koyo has poor welds and is a little more difficult to install than the Fluidyne, probably because of the larger size of the core. But the Koyo fits the fans better than the Fluidyne. But I have never heard anything bad about the Fluidyne. Koyo is the cheaper route but Id rather have a better product. Im still going to go and get the system pressure checked just to be safe. Thanks guys

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Glad you found it. There is a good shop called Tom's radiator in Orange but basically find a shop that specializes in raditors only (or rad' & A/C). My engine is out, so if you want to see the fluidye you can stop by (PM me). There are other choices Griffith (can buy from summit), AWR (from mazdatrix), PWR. If you have an outo, then AWR is the only choice. Now is a good time to change some hoses and switch to Evans coolant.

RotorJoe

Glad it's not your motor. Good news.

rx7will

iTrader: (6)

Do you mean get the system pressure tested with the leaking radiator? That would be a waste of time since the radiator would leak when you pressure test it. Unless theres a bigger leak somewhere else. I would change the radiator, upper and lower radiator hose, thermostat, ast cap and the heater hose underneath the oil filter. That one gets oil saturated and likes to leak or burst. Then get the system pressure tested if you want.