sorry if i was so cocky or saying i got alot of money and i wanna spend it must i just wanted some help..

 

where i work we sell the sparco speeds. like a cheap racing shell. the only thing that distinguishes that seat from a tenzo p.o.s. is the sparco decal on it. thats right a decal, not even embroidered. if you have the money like you say definetely go for sparco milanos or torinos. much more comfortable, and infinetely better build quality. also check into recaro. i have 2 sp-g's in my car, a recaro sp-g racer for my driver seat and a normal sp-g. great seats for those of us who are under 5'10" tall and under 165lbs. ive pretty much been in your position, same story, same mutual fund ****, and i can tell you, if you do appreciate it and take full advantage of the opportunity given to you, run with it man. hook your car up, but since you have the money, do it right, and do it tastefully . cause once you have a badass 3rd gen all the jealous crap that people say doesnt matter, cause...you still have one bad *** 3rd gen.

 

good way to spend $899 eh lol..
I have alot of money but I still wanna save some for engine mod's cause that when the dough start's coming in

 

Sparco Milano seat's are awsome the leather racing seat's are awsome!
But i want to spend more money on my engine component's and stuff not jus the interior..

 

definetely, is your car an r-1 edition cause if it is, you could get an easy $350 a piece for the terry clothe stock seats. and if it is an r-1 if your not going to be seriously track racing, i'd say stick with the stock seats for a while.

 

Cool I work less than 1 mile from there. I'll drop by to talk to him tommorrow.

 

i think i'd stick with the sparco seat's..

 

best mod=20b swap

 

Cat-Back Exaust dunno how much
Sparco Carbon fiber pedal covers $45.00
Sparco Speed seat Color: Black jacquard $259.00
Sparco, Anatomic Carbon-look like shift **** $59.00
Sparco harness 4 point bolt in Color: Black $99.00

 

Rx 7 Fashion Intercooler Kit: (Apex Core) $1799
Cat-Back Exaust dunno how much
Sparco Carbon fiber pedal covers $45.00
Sparco Speed seat Color: Black jacquard $259.00
Sparco, Anatomic Carbon-look like shift **** $59.00
Sparco harness 4 point bolt in Color: Black $99.00

 

dude i really hate to burst your bubble, but those speed seats are so uncomfortable. seriously they might look "hard" but your far better off putting your money into a radiator or air intake kit. youll put them in, look cool, and be so uncomfortable. seriously you couldnt pay me to put those seats in my car. we have one demo one in our shop and ive sat in it many times during heated GT-3 matches, and after 20 minutes my lower back hurts. dont go cheap on the seats, cause those things are going to hug your *** every second you in your car, and trust me being uncomfortable really ruins the driving experience.

 

THANKS FOR THE TIP!
I might get different one's..

 

Skip the pedals. They won't fit.

You'll have to either cut up the stock pedals or fabricate a way to mount them onto the FD pedal arm mounts (after getting the stock ones off). I have the Sparco Aluminum Pedal Set sitting right here trying to decide if I'm going to sell them or start welding some metal.

If the car is bone stock, skip the seats and other interior stuff and start here:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/reliability.html

 

What is with all this interior ****? Pedals, shift *****, etc... You really should go get some TypeR badges.
Please don't ruin this car that you waiting so long to get. That IC is huge so unless you plan on doing some other mods then a smaller one will definately suffice.
Start with the basic reliability modifications:
1. Aluminum AST
2. Fan Mod
3. Radiator
4. New plugs, wires, coolant, oil, etc..
5. Downpipe (works both ways)
As far as performance mods go:
1. Downpipe
2. Intake
3. Cat Back Exhaust
4. ECU
5. Intercooler
6. Pulleys
7. Fuel Pump
8. Midpipe / High Flow CAT
After that then it really becomes a preference thing but most people will do their mods in that order or close to. If you want a suspension then that is the next place to go but it's up to you.
I hope you keep a little money aside in case of a rainy day when **** breaks because it will some day and if you can't come up with a few grand then I hope you also have another form of transportation. You just never know.

 

Do not say that when you go to the race shop!
They will pull out the vacuum and shove it in your pockets! You might as well go to a strip club, take out all your cash and out it on the table and think some of it will go back in your pocket.

OK, you got enough flamage: Do some research!
Nothing is worse than spending alot of money and time, then finding out you wasted both since you will have to replace everything to go a different route.

 

Yes ... first off do research ... read all the stuff you can about FD's ... That's what I did in the 9 months I was searching for the right FD. Researched and read posts the whole time. Luckily, I found a car with a lot of the reliability mods already.

Before anything ... get a boost gauge, this will give you an idea of how the engine is running.

First ... get all the reliability mods like the ones listed above ... I'd go a step further and get a full silicone hose job.

*** I wouldn't get a new radiator if your stock one is working fine, and you aren't planning on getting too extreme with the mods.

Second ... look into BPU's like catback exhaust, hi-flo cat, intake, intercooler (see note below), ignition, fuel mods, etc.

** Once you start doing BPU's ... an ECU upgrade and tuning is -CRUCIAL- to keep your engine happy.

*** Note: Depending on where you live, be it a hot or cool region ... this should determine what intercooler you get. If you live somewhere hot ... get a stock mount intercooler ... this will save your cooling and AC. .. If you live in a cool region, a front mount should be fine.

After all this ... I would start looking into suspension mods, and then cosmetic.

If you truly have been looking forward to an FD3S since before F+F came out ... then you should love the stock look and can hold off on cosmetic/interior mods until the car is reliable.

Also ... put by about 5 grand just in case the worst happens and the motor pops. That should be plenty for the next motor and all the labor costs.

Shoot me a PM if you want to talk more about mods and such ...

Van

 

Damn forgot the boost gauge!!! I agree with the above post but I have heard that "here" is a very hot location so a new radiator is a definate must have. Have you ahd the compression checked on this engine since you plan on modding it? If not do that first as well as the boost check to see how your turbos are doing. Then continue with the above list.

 

Which collage gave you a scholarship?

I wish I got one rather than having $1000 per month payments. Lane Change: think of all the TypeR stickers (yo) I could have on my car (bro) if I didn't have those pesky loans to pay back (dog)!

 

one thing no one has mentioned, not even the trhead starter, is the specs on the car. Year, model (R1, PEP, base), mileage, and any history that you have on the car. There are very few bone stock 3rd gens left, so chances are, some of the reliability mods have been performed. Also, how do you plan to use the car? How you use the car should definitely affect your mod list. Just my .02

 

If money is no object at all then a 20b is in order however I don't think you have $35k+ to spend. Looking at the info you have given us I say you should get a single turbo, fuel injectors, fuel rail, pump, FMIC, pulleys, intake, downpipe, midpipe, cat back, boost controller, ecu (power fc or haltech), clutch, flywheel, radiator, aluminum ast, boost guage, water temp guage, air/fuel guage, short shifter, coilovers, 17" wheels with wider tires, etc. etc. etc.

 

Like I stated earlier...do the reliability mods...http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/reliability.html...what good is having the best looking car on the block, if it doesn't even run? It's a car, not an ornament.
Know what you've gotten yourself into...a 3rd gen RX-7 requires a lot of TLC. It's not a Civic where all you have to do is change the oil and drive.

 

hey btw all teh 3rd gen rx7s are twin turbo and umm if you have so much money why buy a 7? u will be out of your money very soon if you dont learn about these cars before buying one. get an s2k with a supercahrger and a mugen hard top as well as turbo kit or something like that

 

s2000? baaaaah. rx-7 is so much better engineered then that sucker aside from our little *ahem* maintenance issues. i have a friend with a comptech charger (paxton in origin) and i still spank his 2.0 liter *** all over town. the problems with the s2000 is that its just not engineered to handle high horsepower applications. unlike our 7's the 2k has a notoriously unrigid chasis, and c'mon if you want a coupe why not just buy one, dont deal with removable hard tops and all the weight issues of convertibles. remember a new s2k will easily fetch over 30grande out of your wallet and that paxton charger kit is at least another 3500 bucks. do the math, do the 7.

 

uhh the s2k weigths teh same of the FD teh chassis IS VERY STRONG. and engineered ? excuse me? what is this engineered i hear? honda has one of the best engineers...get your crap straight. and where did u read s2k cant handle high HP?

 

uhhhh hrmmmmm. where to start where to start. to tired to argue right now lol. anyways i guess hondas supreme engineering is whats winning them and jordan all the f1 races right now haha! okay i got weight issues aside have you dealt with modding an s2k? one of my friend's fathers owns paxton, his brother before the vortech merge, was the president. i get my info from them. oh and honda has one of the best engineers...whats his name per chance my good fellow? and get "supercahrger as well as turbo kit" woah werd! so how exactly does this work? is it a roots type super charger that gets its air fed into it through an intercooled turbo system? or gear driven possibly with its own intercooler? woah i hear theres more then enough room under the s2k hood for a supercharger, a turbo, and 2 intercoolers! maybe even an aftercooler! yay thats engineering! so why cant the stock s2k clutch hold more then 300 crank horsepower? why did honda rework the chassis for the 2001 model? why does the car pull the 1/4 mile a full second slower then the rx-7 does for only having 15 less stock horsepower and comparable weight? WHY? its engineering sucka!