Rrail

I just got my FD a week ago, and aside from the one major problem I've had so far (my headlight lid coming off at like 70 miles an hour on the freeway), I haven't really had any problems at all. I have some questions about some things the FD does, in hopes that it's normal, and if it's not, that maybe I can get some solutions:

1) Rough idle. The idle isn't perfectly smooth. It will bump up and down maybe 50 RPMs. It's noticable on the tachometer, and is very noticable audibly. It's not causing the car to shake or anything, it's just not a smooth idle. Perhaps this is normal though.

2) Occasionally on start up I will hear a quick "buzz" noise. I'm talking about the kind of buzz you'd hear from an alarm on a really old washer/dryer or something. I haven't had time to get into the manual and find out because of work, sadly.

3) What should the oil pressure be at? It's at about 30 when I idle, and goes up to about 60 when I get on the pedal. I ask this because apparently when the engine was rebuilt (2500 miles ago), the place removed some oil pump (that is located underneath the engine normally). This hadn't really worried me because the place that rebuilt the engine did this so I figured they knew what they were doing. The person I bought it from did say it was an 1800 dollar oil pump or something.

4) Right behind the shifter, and the little 2.5inx4in storage area (I think Mazda was looking into the future when they made this, because it fits cell phones perfectly, but wouldn't have fit the big cell phones from back in the early 90's), the transmission tunnel feels really weak. It has a 2in "soft spot" where theres no plastic covering that part of the transmission tunnel or something. Is this how it usually is? Is there a way to rebolster it?

5) Do the aftermarket shifter kits make the shifter have less "play" to it? I hate when shifters wobble around.

Thanks in advance for all the help. I know this was a lot but I couldn't find an answer elsewhere.

CantGoStraight

1) Could be a dirty ICS or in need of adjustment at TB.
2.) Have no idea of what the buzz could be as most the alarms are distinct as an alarm (I.E. low coolant/ oil level)
3.) oil pressure looks to be typical of these cars, the senders are notorious for failing or poor connections
4.) There is platic suppot under the vynil and foam, people some times lean into the car and place there hand in this area and wind up breaking the plastic under the covering (causing the soft spot you speak of) There may be some way to repair it under neath with fiberglass, it would be good to get out of the habit of using that area for support
5.) The after market shiftes will shorten the throw, if you have bad or worn parts in the shifter they will need to be replaced to correct the sloppiness as most after market shifters use some of the factory parts.
6.) ^^^^^^^There is a FAQ sticky at the top of this forum which will and should answer most if not all of your future questions.

chinaman

As far as the idle goes, make sure all your vacuum lines are on and secure. If it was'nt done during the re-build, change vacuum hoses to silicone and zip tie. When the re-build was performed, was the motor ported? I ask this 'cause if it was, you will need an aftermarket computer and tuning, along with fuel upgrade.

As far as the buzzing is concerned, check your oil level. I don't remember if you get a buzz when coolant is low but it does not hurt to check that too.

I don't remember where the oil pressure should be. It's been too long since I've had a running car.

If you're feeling a soft spot on the center console, most likely it's cracked.

You can either go aftermarket with the shifter or, get a new bushing from the dealer or Mazdatrix to fix the slop.

If I'm not 100% correct on some of my answers or more info is needed, I'm sure some of the more experienced guys here will help you out (me too for that matter). Good luck

CantGoStraight

T

Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS ) adjustment, fix idle / hesitation problems:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fixed-my-idle-problems-backfiring-bucking-more-170731/
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...0&highlight=tps

skotx

Oil pressure shouldn't be your concern. It sounds like the shop removed the Oil Metering Pump (OMP). If so, I hope the previous owner told you about pre-mixing.

"This hadn't really worried me because the place that rebuilt the engine did this so I figured they knew what they were doing."

Generally not a good assumption to make.

Rrail

Could you tell me more about this?

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

What makes you think the OMP has been removed? Just curious.

If you OMP is gone, you need to add 2 stroke oil to your gas when you fill up, to lube the apex seals.

skotx

His exact words were:

"...the place removed some oil pump (that is located underneath the engine normally). [snip] The person I bought it from did say it was an 1800 dollar oil pump or something."

That, to me, sounds like the OMP. What other oil pump would/could be removed?

The OMP injects oil into the rotor chambers to provide lubrication. The rotary intentionally burns oil, which is why you need to top it off occasionally between oil changes. If the OMP has been removed (not a big deal, people run without it), you need to add something like Marvel Mystery Oil each time you fill up your gas tank. I think people generally add 4 ozs per fill up.

I noticed you're in the north east, did KD Rotary do the rebuild? If so, then they know what they're doing.

-Scott

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Doh! You're right, I missed that. From what I understand if you have a working OMP and want a litle insurance, add 4oz per tank. But if you don't have an OMP, you should add 1oz per gallon. Well, that's what I've read here. I've been thinking of premixing so I did a bit of research last week.

rynberg

Start pre-mixing immediately! Until you can verify if the OMP is still there, you should assume that it's not.

Rrail

Oh ok, awesome, I'll do that. I wasn't told, I guess I should have asked. Perhaps this accounts for the unsteady idle?

It was rebuilt by Koons of Maryland or Westchester or something like that.

FakeWhiteMan

I don't know about the koons in MD, but the one in Arlington, VA (I think its Arlington...) should know what they are doing. A friend of mine works there and they had 2 or 3 FD's in there, 1 of which is the owners car, so if hes letting them work on it, I'm sure that they have some expirience. Just hope that is where they did your rebuild...

Rrail

It was Koons of Westminster.

Rrail

How hard is it to reinstall the OMP? The previous owner told me that you'd have to remove the whole engine (because it's under it or something?), is that the case?

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Personally I wouldn't go through the trouble. OMP's are not cheap, plus you'll probably have to buy new lines( if you do get the SS ones) and possibly new oil injectors. Go ahead and premix, just don't forget

Rrail

I have a completely new OMP right here. Perhaps I can sell it!

What kind of 2 stroke oil is the best for pre-mixing? I bought some Havoline 2 stroke oil tonight (that I have not put in yet, in fear that it isn't sufficient) because that was all they had. I have to fill up my gas tank tommorrow though so I need to get this sorted out.

Rrail

Anyone? Will this Halvoline 2 stroke oil work until I can get the better stuff that was linked into this thread?

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Do a search, there's dozens of posts about premixing and what 2 stroke oil people use. I would imagine any quality 2 stroke oil will do, the less ash the better. I just started premixing and got a couple of small bottles of Lucas semi synthetic. However I plan on going with Royal Purple 2 stroke synthetic.