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I have boost coming through my BOV

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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:46 AM
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From: Newport
I have boost coming through my BOV

undefinedI have just de-cated my FD and put a new uprated intercooler and raidiator in taken the a/c and air pump off and it was running like a rocket on standard boost with standard turbo's and standard bov's but now for some reason i have boost going through my bov all the time it the 1 with the red label i think its some thing to do with the vacuum as i have tried 3 bov's now and they are all the same ,its even doing it when i take the vacuum pie off so it can't be the vacuum can it? help.!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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whoa calm down tiger...

bov's will have air coming through with vacuum sucking on the nipple. how are you testing them...search this site, I'm sure you'll figure it out.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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CRV?
That will vent "boost" until 4.5-4.8k rpms

Put it in simple terms. is it the BOV the attached to the forward half of the Y pipe or the BOV that's attached to the back? Cause the back one is called a Charge Relief Valve & it does vent during boost.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 11:27 AM
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Punctuaction is your friend.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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From: central jerzy
normal under light throttle conditions
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 11:59 AM
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From: Newport
Originally Posted by dubulup
whoa calm down tiger...

bov's will have air coming through with vacuum sucking on the nipple. how are you testing them...search this site, I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Yes but it has boost coming through even with the vac pipe off , and that is on 3 different standard fd bov's i don't under stand it it will only boost to .4 to .5 maxiumum and u can hear the boost flying in the airbox
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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From: Newport
Originally Posted by Sled Driver
CRV?
That will vent "boost" until 4.5-4.8k rpms

Put it in simple terms. is it the BOV the attached to the forward half of the Y pipe or the BOV that's attached to the back? Cause the back one is called a Charge Relief Valve & it does vent during boost.
Nope it is the front 1 on the bottom pipe ,closest to the bumper the 1 with the red label .
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 12:06 PM
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From: central jerzy
Originally Posted by alloyboy
Nope it is the front 1 on the bottom pipe ,closest to the bumper the 1 with the red label .

ok ok if we're trying speak in stock terms, the CRV valve came black and the BOV came brown, lables and other jazz dont matter that was probably done by a previous owner. When does it leak air, do you have a boost guage?
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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From: Newport
Originally Posted by nopistons94
ok ok if we're trying speak in stock terms, the CRV valve came black and the BOV came brown, lables and other jazz dont matter that was probably done by a previous owner. When does it leak air, do you have a boost guage?
it leaks air all the time as soon as i accelerate from about 2000rpm and the boost gauge reads about 0.4 and at max power 0.5 it is a jap import type -rs if that makes any odds to the sticker colour but it reads N3A1 084900-065 0 on al of the valves i have tried and there were 3 my original ,a second hand 1 which i managed to source and 1 taken of a friends car so they can't all be faulty they work fine in my friends FD but in mine they don't even work with the vac pipe off
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 01:16 PM
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All right. At idle the blow off valve will leak air because of the vacuum condition. When you start to boost the valve closes thus not allowing any pressure loss. My suggestion is to follow the blow off valve line back to the Y pipe and make sure that it is clamped down properly.
The charge relief valve vents the secondary turbos pressure until 4500rpm and then it closes as well.
Make sure that your vacuum lines don't have any cracks in them (the lines that go to the nipples on the bov and crv). Try that.

R.K.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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From: central jerzy
the vac line is really the only option lol, if you've tried 3 valves already and seen them work in other cars, then the line has to have a hole in it

or the actual piping that the BOV runs to the Y pipe with (rubber hose) has cracks in it and the air is actually leaking from that instead of the BOV.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 01:24 PM
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^^^Thats what I say.

R.K.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 01:53 PM
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hahah thats what i am thinking
Timmy
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 04:43 PM
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From: Newport
yes but how does any of this make sense whan it still happens with the vac pipe disconected.coul it be an actuator problem and to much boost is forcing the bov open. come on guys help me
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by alloyboy
yes but how does any of this make sense whan it still happens with the vac pipe disconected.coul it be an actuator problem and to much boost is forcing the bov open. come on guys help me
Trust me the blow off valve is good for more pressure than 5psi. If it was boosting over 14psi then you would see the spike on you boost guage but your not seein that. Besides if you were over boosting then the ecu will cause fuel cut and boost cut which is what your not experiencing. Are you sure that the noise isn't coming from any of the couplers (eg. Y pipe, intercooler pipes). Check those as well.

R.K.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 04:56 PM
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Also how do you know its coming from the bov. To build pressure you have to be driving the car. If you have a boost guage "t" it on the bov vacuum line and see how much pressure is there. This will tell you the pressure in the motor.

R.K.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 05:09 PM
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From: central jerzy
yea just to clarify what crazyRX7 is saying ,

you will see the actual boost drop off on the guage as it vents out of the BOV or the spot that is causing the problem.

now let me get this straight, your attempting to do this while not driving the car? You should not be able to build enough boost in neutral to even get the BOV to close fully. You have to do this while there is a load on the motor.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 05:18 PM
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I know i'm very confused on what he is trying to do and how he's going to acomplish it.

R.K.
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