jpandes

Hey guys,


I recently developed a significant fuel leak. I can smell fuel fumes in the cabin and I can hear the fuel crackle on the intake manifold! I haven't puilled the UIM off yet. So, I'm not sure if it is the FPD or Injector O-rings etc...
I have a few questions before I begin working fixing it:

1) Bought a set of primary injectors from another forum member a long time ago that were cleaned and tested by RC Engineering. However, they have been sitting in a box for months. Do I need to do anything to prep them before I install them? Is there any thing needed to make sure that they are not stuck or "frozen" from lack of use? BTW, I'm not even sure it this is the problem causing my fuel leak.

2) Is there a correct procedure for trouble shooting a fuel system? Any links to step by step write ups w/ pics would be greatly appreciated.

3) Does anyone have any helpful tips for me? (i.e. Things that will minimize the risk of my engine bay bursting into flames)


I'll be searching, but would still like welcome any good advice besides "bring some marshmellows"...


Thanks,
John

pugg57

biggest tip i can give you DON'T START THE ENGINE!!! (but that's probably easy to figure out and its just from what i've read)

i'm not trying to sound like a dick, but seriously, if you have a fuel leak, don't start it at all... just start getting into to and looking for the leak. if you are looking for a leak, just start at the fuel line into the engine compartment and track through the whole system... time consuming, i'm sure, but it seems to me that it would be the most thorough way to check it out... its not like you are looking for an electrical short or anything.

if i were you, i'd take the injectors to have them looked at one last time, but that's just me... i tend to be rediculously careful with my "toys" though. if i have something sitting around for more than a month before it goes on, i like to be double sure especially when its something that one tiny malfuction can blow your engine ya know?

good luck and that's a damn nice looking car ya got there

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

It's actually pretty simple to find fuel leaks, save for getting everything out of the way so you can see the leak. Jumper the fuel pump terminal so the fuel pump runs with the key in the "on" position, and look/smell/feel for fuel. It's typically pretty obvious.

I'm with Pugg - do NOT drive your car until you fix the problem. There are MANY FD's that have been destroyed due to engine fire, don't add your car to the list. Even if you have to get a rental car or something, that's FAR cheaper.

Dale

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

You should be able to find several pointers on here by doing a search. What you want to do first after making a visual inspection is to pressurize your fuel system by activating the fuel pump. The engine is not running to do this. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position and then, in the diagnosis box at the driver's side fender wall, jump the circuit with a short piece of wire (e.g., paper clip). Rather than try to explain it, it is better to simply refer you to the the shop manual. The proper slots in the grid are shown in several places in the shop manual.

Once the fuel system is pressurized, you can usually follow the fuel odor to the source of the leak.

As for your dormant injectors, some do need to be primed to make them work again. Some of the solvents will actually make them hang up if not used soon after the initial cleaning.

jpandes

Thanks guys for the advice. I was wondering how I was going to pressurize the the fuel system.

How does one "prime" the injectors and ensure that they flow correctly?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I suggest you call RC and ask them since you said they were the last ones to handle them. They will know which solvents were used and what is necessary.

Dave

jpandes

Good idea. I just spoke to a guy at RC and he said that I could touch a 9-volt battery to the injectors to see if I can hear the injector open and close. I asked him if I needed to soak them in anything since they've been sitting for a while. He just said that a little oil on the O-ring is suggested to make them fit in easier, just not to get any inside the top hole.

RC will check them for free. I just have to pay for shipping.