What should I do First? I know what mods (kinda) I just need to know what order I should put them in.

 

Compression test.. then decide what your priorities are.. looks, go, ect..

 

Go buy a $2000 daily driver (best reliability mod EVER)

Seriously though, radiator/cooling system, fuel pump, injectors, vacuum lines. How many miles on the car? What are your (REALISTIC) goals for the car eventually?

 

A radiator really isnt needed if the stock is in good condition.

 

if electronics are working great....why not get a GOOD rebuild with NEW engine harness? If money is left..total tune up on the bushings. That way you start (some what) fresh.

 

B.S. Unless you pull all the crap out from under the hood covering the stock radiator - you need a new one! Besides, $400 for a Koyo racing radiator to keep that hot eng. cool is a cheap investment!! I Agree with BicuspiD also - know what your goal is and map it out and take your time.

 

BS. The stock radiator cools just fine. Lots of people in hot climates (Arizona, Texas) use a stocker and have no overheating problems. The only negative of the stocker is the plastic endtanks.

There's no reason to replace the radiator unless:

*the stock one is worn out (my reasoning)
*getting an FMIC (which I don't agree with anyway)
*running really high power levels (single turbo) in hotter climates
*regularly tracking the car (road race, not auto-x or drag) in hot climates

BTW: Here's my advice. Buy a couple of mods for the car and stick/keep the rest in the bank. I'm always stunned at how many people here are living paycheck to paycheck just to add mods to their car. Pretty dumb IMO.

 

Tune the car up, get a downpipe, boost gauge, and leave it alone.

 

get a downpipe, catback, intakes, boostgauge,short shifter, and a full tune-up....change tranny fluid and diff fluid, fuel filter, plugs, coolant, and save the rest of the dough for emergency repairs and maintanance......

 

dude radiator crap is b.s. i live in the caribean and hava a single turbo i have never had overheating problems, get a greddy t88 single turbo kit for the money , you will really feel where youre money went into

 

Sounds good, don't get an intake and catback as your motor might go boom w/o fuel compensation. Temp gauge is also nice. Do all fluids as someone said above.

 

yes no need for the radiator ive seen several with 120k miles on them and the end tanks are fine. You do need a temp gauge to know if the end tanks break though.
I am also running a single turbo with a FMIC in florida and its great

Heres what I would do....temp gauge, boost gauge, ast, downpipe. AND LEAVE IT ALONE modwise. Change all the fluids differential, transmission, and coolant in engine. Spark plugs and fuel filter. And then change the engine oil every 2k miles after that. Drive the hell out of the car and keep changing the oil. Every year change the plugs again. And every 25k miles change all the other fluids and fuel filter again. Should run awesome.

 

Get a DP, boost gauge, and an AST. Drive it for a few months and see if anything needs fixing (it probably will, and repairs can eat away at that 6k very easily), and also read alot (look at the newbie sticky). Then if your car is "perfect" in stock form and when your used to it and know a lot about it, you can decide for yourself how you want to mod it. Your going to get a million responses here... just figure it out for yourself .

 

Personally i would:
Aluminum AST
koyo radiator
Power FC and commander
1300 cc injectors
better intercooler (front mount or decent size stock
mount)
downpipe
catback
midpipe
intake
dyno tune the car for around 14 - 15 pounds of boost

After these mods you will be deep in the 12s and over well over 300 rwhp. You will also have an extra 1500 to 2500 dollars left over incase something breaks depending on how good a shopper you are. A mazda remanufactured motor through Malloy mazda is only 2200 dollars incase it blows. before doing anything though, i would get a compression test done to make sure your motor is healthy to begin with.

Adam

 

Compression wise it is good, being that the motor is new. I like the intake, full exhaust but I don't want my baby to go boom. Rx7store.net Has 3 fuel kit that they offer.
The Perfomance, Exteme, and Ultimate extreme. I know I will NOT be need the ultimate extreme So I think Im gonna go with the Perfomance. Nevermind it comes with 1600cc injectors not 1300cc.

With that intake and full exhaust won't I get boost creep? Does'nt that lead to detontation. I heard alot about porting your waste gate. If I don't wanna do and just but an aftermaket one What size should I got with 35mm, 40mm?
What devices can I get the Stop that too?

 

Spend $1500 on a daily beater, save $2500 for a new engine, spend $1000 on used intake, catback, dp, boost controller. I'd always buy that stuff used cause they are non wear items. Then invest the other $1000

STEPHEN

 

do the fluids a coolant flush some distilled water and some water wetter will do wonders for the temps. get a nice boost gague. look around and find a line you like. if you are thinking more boost more speed! start thinking ecu/stand-alone management. a profec-b will keep boost in check 90% time without a ported wastegate.

welcome

i would look into some suspension upgrades myself

good luck

 

I 100% AGREE with this comment...i might substitute a few thigs..1600 cc secondary enjectory...stock promary...maybe different...EMS...your perefence...you get the idea

Ty

 

with the midpipe hes gonna have to port his wastegate or add restrictor plate though, i'd add a hi-flow cat instead, and you'll need a fuel pump adding all those things

 

Used Single Kit turbo kit- 2000
Used PFC-1000
Complete Fuel-1000
Front MOunt 1200
Radiator 350
Midpipe-100
Exhaust 250
Aluminum Ast 150

Sell stock turbos and all other things you replace for around 500 bucks and have money to have it installed

im sure i am forgetting a few things but you if you are patient and buy used parts you could possible pull off a single turbo swap for around that price. However buying a good daily driver is always a smart thing to do.

David

 

Funny you should ask this question. I just bought my car (with a fresh motor) and bought all the things these guys mentioned with an exception of the mid-pipe (don't feel like porting the turbos yet) and the injectors or FP. I am doing the vac lines this week, and man they really needed it. I did do the Radiator, AST, all the hoses that go to it. A FMIC, Intakes, and Battery relocation are in the works too before spring.

As far as a Daily beater goes I have an '02 WRX for that so no need to spend money there (its a money pit too, it getting a new engine right now <---not my fault, warranty work). Good luck with your project, and spend your money wisely!

X...

 

2 Row intercooler vs. 3 row intercooler. What is the diference? They both say for use only with single turbo covertion.
Also should I keep my primaries the same or are the secondaries the only one I upgrade to 1300cc. also with one is better to run with bnr stage 3's?

 

I would go single before running the bnrs. A lot less hassle and for about the same price and you get more power. But if you like the feel of the twins then I guess the BNRs are the way to go.

 

Also I want a faster ignition. Would the HKS twin Power Be to much. Or should I just do my ground wires, spark plugs, and plug wires.
I Know platnuim is not good on the rotary so i was gonna go with iridium but what heat range do I get my spark plugs in?

Thanks Guys for all the help.

Jay

 

Platinum plugs are fine -- that's what the stock plugs are for crissakes.

Instead of blowing $6000, why don't you keep it in the bank and spend a few months researching. No offense, but it's obvious you have a lot of learning to do. Once you've spent a bit of time learning, you can make your own decisions instead of listening to what other people tell you.