Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

I have this annoying problem that has slowly been getting worse over the last couple months.
It started out I had a popping noise when I would lightly brake. It changed frequency with speed so I figure it is something rotating. I had an almost new set of free rotors so I swapped that and no improvement.
Things slowly were getting worse and then I could get popping noises when making hard left turns at low speed. Like when backing out of the driveway then cranking the wheel to straighten out on the road it was sort of a popping/rattle.
Next I replaced front wheel bearings. I couldnt get any in/out, top/bottom, or side/side movement but they did have 100k on them and I figure it wouldnt hurt to replace. Well that didnt help either.
Now it is to the point where I get the noise just from reversing, stopping, then going forward. I still also get it under light braking as well.
I pulled the front pads to inspect the hardware. To me they look ok. The springs are straight and I can barely get any movement out of the pads. I also lubed the sway bar bushings thinking possibly they were binding up. The end links are new and dont rattle. I checked the control arm bushings and the ball joints, no excess movement in those. Sway bar mounts are straight and secure. I even lubed up the radiator mount bushings as one of those was squeaking. I have run out of ideas what else could possibly be wrong.

I searched and saw mention of worn shock bushings. Maybe I need to loosen the shocks up and check that out? I couldnt move them at all by hand with the wheels off, but I suppose this weekend I will pull them off and check again.

Any other thoughts on what to check? Wont be much more before I have removed and/or replaced the whole front suspension.

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

I'm almost postive it's your lower control arm bushings. I had the exact same problem a year or so ago, I replaced everything from bushings to shocks to tie-rods, and nothing changed until I replaced the whole control arm on the bottom.

Before swapping out the bushings only, first check the lower ball-joints as well, because if they're shot as well, you will need to replace the whole control arm anyway...

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Stinkin bushings, I have replaced more bushings in the last year than I ever wanted to in my life. Thanks for the suggestion. I will see about pulling my lower control arm this weekend. I did have the uppers off a couple weeks ago and those bushings were ok. Should have pulled the lower since I was in there any way.

DaveW

I'm going to guess that you've lost the lubrication or formed corrosion in one of the non-rubber suspension pivots (ball joints, etc.). Popping sounds are usually caused by stick-slip friction during sliding (of the bushing internal surfaces against each other). Slop or play usually results, but may not be noticeable at first. I would guess that as this progresses, play will develop.

SAMIboarder

iTrader: (2)

dang I've got the same problem right now! let me know what the culprit is when ya find out Tom93R1. good luck.

DamonB

I would suspect the upper or lower a-arm bushings on the front. The uppers are known to pop as they wear. The sound you hear is most likley the upper a-arm moving slightly and banging against the mounts.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

I would be 100% in agreement on the a-arm bushings if it werent for the periodic popping on light braking that changes frequency as my speed changes. That makes me a bit skeptical, can the a-arm bushings do this?

I want to do the bushings any way so will order them up today. Will let you guys know if that was the whole problem.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Tom,
Just speculating... but if you had a rotor that was slightly warped, in combination with the bad bushings as DamonB describes, would/could that cause it to make noise when it hit the warped spot, making the noise speed dependent, and on like braking? I'm not talking way warped, but just enough to add a sudden 'load' to the 'A' arms and the bushings under light braking.

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

If anybody needs front upper a-arm bushing, let me know. I just remembered that I have brand new ones from Mazda I bought a year ago and never used. Thanks.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

That makes very good sense. I did just replace the disks but I dont know if it is possible after even just a couple heat cycles to have absolutely zero warp in them. Good call!

Hey PandazRx-7, let me know what you want for those bushings. I was going to order all 8 upper/lower from Malloy but I would be willing to take yours as well.

SAMIboarder

iTrader: (2)

I think if it was warped brake rotors, you would be able to feel it a bit through the steering wheel, esp. under hard braking. mine aren't warped, and I have the same problem as ^. I've had a few warped rotors before, including my FC and it was pretty apparent.

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

did you take the spring load off of the ball joints when you checked them?

SAMIboarder

iTrader: (2)

welp, I found out today that my problem seems to be the driver's side front upper ball joint. anyone know where to buy a new one? I think I need whole upper control arm w/ it right?

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I have the same problem on my left front wheel. I have to investigate more before I purchase my new A Arm. I am planning to join Mazda Comp so I can get discount parts. How about the rack & pinion? Do you guys think the Rack & Pinion will cause this problem? I have the popping noise when I back up my car while I turn my wheel to max left position.

BC

SAMIboarder

iTrader: (2)

update: I replaced the drivers upper ball joint/ control arm, and that didn't fix my popping sound like I thought it would. I needed it anyway though. the search continues.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I am checking prices at Mazda Motorsports. Control arms are expensive. I think I have to disconnect my control arms and check ball joint first. If the ball joints are good I can save quite a bit of money

BC

DamonB

I highly doubt it but if it were you'd feel it in the steering whenever it clunked.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

how much is "expensive"? im having this same popping noise as well.... (not to mention all my bushing issues in the rear)

a2zpcwiz

I had the same problem, turn out to be the shock.

maxcooper

I suspect ball joints, but that they probably tighten up with the suspension in full droop (hiding the problem when you do a tug and pull test). My upper ball joints were bad and I had very annoying popping noises from the front. I got a used set of arms to switch back to rubber bushings, but found the upper ball joints were bad on those, too. I ended up getting new upper arms from Malloy for $510 for the pair.

-Max

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Double-check the bolts that hold the power steering rack to the subframe. I had a customer's car with 2 or 3 of the bolts BARELY in there. It drove around loose for some time, so the bushing between the rack and the clamp around the rack was shot. It's not much for the new bushing, and the bushing is VERY easy to replace - no pressing or anything needed, just pop it in.

It's a good idea to double-check - if it's loose, that's mighty bad and causes lots of problems. If so, pull the bolts, clean them, and reinstall with some Loctite.

Dale

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Did the control arms come with bushings? I have a set of replacement bushings I have been pondering installing but I dont know if I want to waste that on 100k mile ball joints.

I am going to pull the suspension apart again this weekend, this time pull the shocks and springs as well. I really want to find the noise, it is annoying. Nothing feels loose at all, steering is tight and I cant feel the pop through the brake pedal or the steering wheel. So much fun!

NeedToSellMyCar

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure, but if it is the same issue I had I would look at the stering nuckle. I found that to top bolt was not tightened to spec, I fixed that and the knock went away.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I check the steering rack bolt and they are all tight. I even re-torque them and the popping noise still exist. New control arm will include all the bushings. I calculated the cost to buy all bushing to fix both front suspension is around $300 while a single lower control arm already cost over $300. So if my ball joint is good, I can save money on just buying bushings. Again I really don't know if I can find out if my ball joint is bad or not even I take the arm out to test.

BC

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Hi everyone:

I just checked my front suspension and still don't know where the clunking noise come from. I am about to order some new control arm and wondering which control arm's ball joint has more chance to cause the clunking noise (upper or lower). Or should I try replacing the bushing first? I am afraid the problem is actually from the ball joint and doesn't want to waste the time and money on replacing bushing and found out later the problem still exist.

Please advice

Thanks

BC