I garage painted my RX7
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 31
From: Riverside, CA
I garage painted my RX7
I spent over a year body working and painting my RX7.
The following was posted on a small forum during the progress:


Slowly going panel by panel.
Mainly going this route for the time i have, and I can get every edge without having tape lines on ****. I won't be painting the engine bay, but everything else will be the new color, jams, edges, whatever else shows. Engine I can do after the next rebuild (lol).

Of course i got some sweet runs in it.



Had a PDR guy do his best, it wasnt. but its better than i can do:


The following was posted on a small forum during the progress:


Slowly going panel by panel.
Mainly going this route for the time i have, and I can get every edge without having tape lines on ****. I won't be painting the engine bay, but everything else will be the new color, jams, edges, whatever else shows. Engine I can do after the next rebuild (lol).

Of course i got some sweet runs in it.



Had a PDR guy do his best, it wasnt. but its better than i can do:


Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 31
From: Riverside, CA
Because of course of course there would be rust. A piece of sound deadening material was holding moisture. Cutting the bitch out, and applying 2k epoxy inside and out while waiting for some metal to weld in place.
used some rust converter to kill what was left and used a disc pad to strip what i could before paint.



The plan is to epoxy what I can, then after welding use 3M cavity wax. I want to stay away from any 1k product or bullshit. If anyone else has a better idea, let me know because i don't know ****!
I just want to paint, man.
I'm not a fabricator or welder. But I will cut metal until it shapes the shape i need.





Rough as hell, but I'll beat it in place.
used some rust converter to kill what was left and used a disc pad to strip what i could before paint.



The plan is to epoxy what I can, then after welding use 3M cavity wax. I want to stay away from any 1k product or bullshit. If anyone else has a better idea, let me know because i don't know ****!
I just want to paint, man.
I'm not a fabricator or welder. But I will cut metal until it shapes the shape i need.





Rough as hell, but I'll beat it in place.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 31
From: Riverside, CA
Got the piece in. It didnt come out perfect. There are a lot of curves and bends, but it gets covered by a mud guard anyway.

Removed the body shutz, i will protect the rockers with clear guard tape stuff instead.

What is done so far

Mudding up some dings

Couldn't get the windshield out without breaking it, but to paint around and check for rust was worth it


Got the chassis sprayed:



The Devillbiss really layed it down nice

Have some runs/sag at the gas tank spout, gonna have to fix that once it hardens.

Removed the body shutz, i will protect the rockers with clear guard tape stuff instead.

What is done so far

Mudding up some dings

Couldn't get the windshield out without breaking it, but to paint around and check for rust was worth it


Got the chassis sprayed:



The Devillbiss really layed it down nice

Have some runs/sag at the gas tank spout, gonna have to fix that once it hardens.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 31
From: Riverside, CA
Got one door down:

on to the 2nd



Just dealing with the small **** at this point, have some exciting things coming and have to put on and I'll post final pics.

Stock mirrors were looking a bit dated. So I replaced them. Thought about painting these but I think they work well without:


Exterior mostly done.



on to the 2nd



Just dealing with the small **** at this point, have some exciting things coming and have to put on and I'll post final pics.

Stock mirrors were looking a bit dated. So I replaced them. Thought about painting these but I think they work well without:


Exterior mostly done.


Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 31
From: Riverside, CA
Got a Carbon Miata wing, not exactly happy with it but it will do. Unfortunately when I painted it, I had to remove and reinstall the wing. When I took it out it was very sprung. When I put it back in it cracked at the joint lines.
So now I have to fix it, but would I use regular epoxy or a resin epoxy before I do a spot blend?

Opened up the crack so I can fill it

Just painful to deal with


[color=unset]



So now I have to fix it, but would I use regular epoxy or a resin epoxy before I do a spot blend?

Opened up the crack so I can fill it

Just painful to deal with


[color=unset]




Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 31
From: Riverside, CA
Base coat clear coat. Used the premium Transtar paint line with 3 coats of clear, 4 on the rear hatch because I had to bury some sanding scratches.
Color is Toyota Lunar Rock
It's funny parking next to a Tundra or a 4Runner with the same color.
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What do you mean by 1k products - traditional clear coat is 2k (adding a hardener) and is a superior finish/durability.
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