3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old 10-09-08, 07:25 PM
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It's finally reliable

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###i Am Damn Angry###

i have been trying to figure out my boost issue and i have done nearly everything there is to do and still i can`t get a normal boost pattern.
last week i was getting 6psi and the car would loose power and hiccup....i drove the car today after doing nothing to it and it was boosting 10 to 15 psi.problem is when the gauge says 10 or 15 psi the car is slower than a turbo II.
i don`t want to go non sequential even more now that i can`t figure this out.
i checked all my hoses intercooler couplings all my actuators and vac hoses what the hell man.....the only other thing i can think off is that my auto transmission has something to do with it but then again the transmission changes gears just fine.
Old 10-09-08, 09:37 PM
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It's finally reliable

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i don`t know,i would like to keep it stock because the more i do to the car is the less i will be able to drive it...i dont want to have get an ecu upgrade and all that stuff if i keep modding the car
Old 10-09-08, 11:37 PM
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whats your afrs like? when i just put in my 850's it took forever to rev out because it was so rich.
Old 10-10-08, 01:16 AM
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I think, that unless you only have one leg, or are handicapped,
you should get a new transmission regardless,
maybe this time make the obvious better choice, and get a standard 5 speed manual.
unless, like I said, you have one leg, or are handicapped,
in which case, you're still cool for having an RX-7,.. even though your handicapped or have one leg.
Old 10-10-08, 03:33 AM
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What type of error codes if any do you have? It could be a number of things, you mentioned your AT? Well there is a AT-EC diagnostic module located next to the ECU that has a feedback circuit which controls the fuel injector status depending on transmission load factors.

It has blue connectors, try unplugging and plugging it back, maybe a loose connection? At first I was going to say you probably have some type of vaccum leak, but you covered it already.

Last edited by HawaiianRedMako; 10-10-08 at 03:36 AM. Reason: additional information
Old 10-10-08, 05:47 AM
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It's finally reliable

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CarbonFD3Assault-theres a big difference between the two.i said to my self do i want to spend $13,000 on a manual running fd or should i buy a good running automatic for $6500. the manual swap is about $1500 so thats $5000 i can use on modding the car my friend.


HawaiianRedMako-i will try to do so to see what happens.thanks
Old 10-10-08, 03:46 PM
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Mobeoner, you rock man!..
I had a bud who did in fact have only one leg, and he was pretty sad that he had to drive an auto, 'till he discovered you can do something called hand clutching,
now he's pretty happy.
I'm glad to hear you got a 7 at all.
it does make me sad though, because in Edmonton (Canada) I see alot of dumbass kids who buy autos and always talk about a 5/6 speed, but never do the swap.
but, regardless, I hope that you have a ton of fun with your ride man, they are awesome cars!!!!

PS: GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR FIX MAN!
(remember, it's winter soon, maybe it's a good time to do the swap!?)
Old 10-10-08, 08:09 PM
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HI

Originally Posted by mobeoner
CarbonFD3Assault-theres a big difference between the two.i said to my self do i want to spend $13,000 on a manual running fd or should i buy a good running automatic for $6500. the manual swap is about $1500 so thats $5000 i can use on modding the car my friend.


HawaiianRedMako-i will try to do so to see what happens.thanks
We just did a FD auto to manual conversion a few weeks ago. It's intensive work, but if you have the motivation and time, then do it. Make sure you test the compression on the 13b and check for any other items that may require rebuilding or replacing.

By the way, you don't need to pull the rear axle shafts off, just disconnect the wishbone, camber and toe in brackets. The auto and manual rear axle are the same. However the auto drive shaft is too short.

Unless you are rebuilding it yourself, expect to cash out $2,500 to $3,200 just for the 13b. Clutch, starter, differential, engine plate (if using existing motor), engine harness, master/slave cylinders, lines, stock standard ECU or PFC all add to the cost. If you can do it for $1,500 then all the best to you.

Let us know when you are finished?

Last edited by HawaiianRedMako; 10-10-08 at 08:17 PM.
Old 10-10-08, 09:53 PM
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It's finally reliable

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i have done auto to manual swaps before just never to an FD but eather way i have seen parts floating around costing somewhere between $1500 to $2000 dollars but i am not interested in doing the swap anytime soon i just want to solve this boost issue and do all the most important mods like radiator-intercooler ect to make the car some what reliable, although we all know FDs are never 100% reliable.
Old 10-10-08, 11:39 PM
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Wow... I guess I never really gave it much thought, but I suppose the first mod I ever really got ... was getting a 5spd, go figure

if it were me, I'd probably strip her down to the short block and put on as many new parts as I could afford.

Good luck.
Old 10-11-08, 06:10 AM
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It's finally reliable

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Originally Posted by MrNizzles
Wow... I guess I never really gave it much thought, but I suppose the first mod I ever really got ... was getting a 5spd, go figure

if it were me, I'd probably strip her down to the short block and put on as many new parts as I could afford.

Good luck.
the car is running just fine right now except that boost spike so the last thing to do is strip it down.
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