I have successfully used Hylomar for the rear-diff covers on all my cars, as it makes a great oil-resistant flange sealant that doesn't harden, and if it breaks apart, will NOT plug-up oil-passages.

As such, I'm thinking about using Hylomar instead of "The Right Stuff for Imports" on both the front cover metal-gasket and possibly the oil-pan.

What do you think ?

Thanks,
:-) neil

PS: note the shaded areas where Hylomar is recommended

http://www.hylomar-usa.com/

 

It sounds like a good idea.

We use Hylomar extensively on industrial gearbox housings at work and it's very effective.

Dave

 

The only area I'm really concerned is the oil-pan, since it gets so much vibration. Perhaps, I'll stick with "The Right Stuff" but let it cure for 48-hrs. . .

FWIW: I hate the gray RTV, very brittle after a year of use . . .

:-) neil

 

Why not give it a shot and report back?

 

i used right stuff on my rebuild on the oil pan with OEM gasket , no leaks even after 10 xxx km`s ... lots of lapping , hard divining done also

 

My vote is for G.E. Silicoln II Door & Window (50yr.). The kind you buy at home depot for $5 a tube. I've used this on just about everything over the last 30 years and properly applied, it works great--it has excellent oil and heat resistance and works as good or better than most of the specialty sealers or "boutique" sealers that I've tried. (Including anaerobic products.)

 

You can never go wrong with the 'right stuff' with the oil pan.

However when properly installed lots of things will work. Just like anything prep work is the key.

I scraped all of the old oil pan gasket material off, then i used a fine wire wheel on a die grinder to take the rest off(both surfaces). Then I cleaned each stud bore 3 times with a tap, then brake cleaned the bores and then hit it with the air nozzle. After brake cleaning both mating surfaces 4 times i felt comfortable applying a heavy coat of sealant (outside of the studs in a continuous bead). Plus an oil pan brace/stud kit and a few weeks to cure.... this thing will never leak.



=Ben

 

Differential covers don't see pressure. As long as your PCV is working I guess your pan shouldn't. But what if? Also, aren't all of those shaded areas in the picture also using gaskets? Will you be using the OEM gasket on the pan?
If the front cover and pan weren't such pains to re-seal in the car, it might not be such a big deal to guinea-pig options, but ....

 

Hylomar can be used with or without a gasket. I've used it successfully as a valve-cover gasket dressing, and on Mercedes thermostat flange that didn't have an O-ring. As long as the gaps are less than 0.01-inch, Hylomar works well.

I'll use Hylomar on the front-cover metal gasket, but will most likely go with "The Right Stuff" on the oil-pan.

:-) neil

 

The right stuff....that's all I use.


Later

 

Hylomar is great for coolant o-rings and the like, but I wouldnt use it to seal an oil pan. As stated above, the right stuff all the way

 

+2

 

Right stuff 100%

Hylomar is a machined flange sealant. The Right Stuff is an adhesive sealant meant to fill gaps.

Any stamped metal oil pan is going to have, at the very least, small gaps that need to be sealed properly. I'd imagine this is especially true for a used pan that was previously used with a gasket.

 

Would you consider the front-cover a machined flange, even though it is cast ?

Thanks,
:-) neil

 

Yes, the faces are machined.

The stock oil pan is stamped, which is not machined.

Dave

 

BTW: I just found some NOS Hylomar for $8 at a local mom-n-pop autostore.
Sure beats the $15 the local O'Reilly's, Autozone, and Advance Auto Parts has them for.

:-) neil

 

right stuff for sure on the oil pan. Used it on my 97 protege, completely different use then an rx7, but worked the best I have ever used. By the way, I did the procedure apexfd did, that is for sure the best way to do it.

 

FWIW, I found some New Old Stock (NOS) Hylomar for $8/tube, instead of the $15 at the McParts store.

If you want a tube (1.2-oz), PM me.

:-) neil

 

One thing I HATE with the Right Stuff - once you use it, it doesn't keep. Come back to it a few months later, and good luck getting anything out of the can.

But, it'll seal an oil pan up somethin' fierce!

Neil, the new metal front cover gasket is JUST like the metal turbo oil return gaskets and the like where it has a raised lip all along the gasket. When you compress that raised lip between 2 flat surfaces, it seals somethin' fierce. I use a VERY light coat of grey RTV in addition to it - works fine so far, but I can see Hylomar would work just as good.

But, by the same token, don't know if it's necessarily worth re-inventing the wheel. Use what works and is time-tested. Both of these are areas you don't want to come back to down the road!

Dale

 

You have to make a bubble at the end of the nozzle and let it dry there. That will keep for a while. If it's clogged again after that, you need to remove the nozzle, clear it out, then use a pick to dig out the dried clog at valve in the can.

I've been using the same can for months doing this.

 

use it every time i build a motor best **** anywhere IMO