so my throttle body is infested with gremlins. first, it idles high for the first hour or so of operation, and secondly, once the car is warmed up it hints for an idle. A notable development recently is that it seems to hint FAR more when the weather is cold. im a tad lost on what to do. ive taken ofd the pipe from my intercooler to the TB and have poled and prodded but to no avail. help?! is it just an adjustment screw? if so which one. im thinking that its something with the thermowax because it seems to start hunting once it is warmed up and its worse when its cold outside. also it stops hunting when the headlights are on.

 

theres a lot that could cause this hunting idle. youre on the right path but if you have ANY vacuum leaks then youre not going to solve your problem. step 1 is to 100% verify that all your vacuum connections are tight and routed properly. after that, go on to troubleshooting components. what are the details on your set up? stock? full rats nest? power fc? stock ecu? maybe some pictures....

 

its entirely stock other than a radiayor downpipe and intercooler. ive had the car six months qnd it came with said mods. its finally time to start wrenching. ill post pictures this evening.

 

Do a smoke test first (the cheap ebay smoke testers will do too).

 

The Latest development is that I'm going to go hunting for vacuum leaks. I'm trying to take the UIM off to get to the rat's nest, but I just CANNOT get the coolant hose on the bottom of the throttle body off. Any tips on getting it off, or a part number for a replacement, in the event I cut it off? Also, the TPS connector on the side of the TB is stuck as well. Advice guys!

 

For that coolant hose you're best off removing it from the bottom side than from the throttle body. Move the spring clamp up and get some hose pliers -


That will let you clamp around the hose and wiggle the hose to break it loose.

For the TPS sometimes it helps to put a flathead screwdriver between the connector and the TPS and put some prying pressure there while pressing down on the lock button that keeps it on. Just take your time and don't break the connector.

Also, if things are stuck, WD-40 sometimes can help to get things moving.

Dale

 

Depending on what you want to do with the rat's nest (or with UIM), you even may be able to leave that TB coolant hose on, just gently position the UIM away from its location to free up some space

 

Sorry wrong thread.

 

So, I've gotten down into the guts of the vacuum line job, I have everything off and purchased all new solenoids. I've started putting in the new silicone lines and need some help from you guys on the forums. The diagrams for routing the vacuum lines are hard for me to follow, colorblind, and need to figure out which lines go where. Could you guys tell me what lines go into the connector side, the nipple pointing skyward and the nipple pointing towards the driver side for each solenoid? I'd appreciate it immensely.

 

Unfortunately that's a big ask. Even color blind you should be able to follow the lines of the vacuum diagram. Print it out on a large sheet of paper (Kinko's will print it on 11x17 for you for cheap) and trace the lines.

Dale

 

Agreed with DaleClark on this one PaleFire.

I printed out an 11x17 copy of the diagram in B&W to follow each vacuum line. Just take your time and mark off as you go.

 

I've had a hunting idle problem for a while, but it would only do so when the engine is cold.
Turned out a bad battery was the cause. Not sure if it's the case for you, but easy enough to see if it has any affect.

 

So, I am nearing the end of replacing all of the vacuum lines. I'm at the point where I cannot replace anymore until I put the rack back in the car. I have two questions. I cannot find anywhere how many of each type of vacuum check valves I need to buy, and I somehow snapped an OMP line. I intend to replace the line and injectors, but how on earth does someone reach the oil injector closest to the firewall, it seems to be underneath the ACV and some dashpot looking thing. Advice?

 

You will probably need to remove the air control valve. The big trick here is 1/4" drive socket/ratchet/extension, if you try and use 3/8" drive you will never get in there. I think it's 3 10mm fasteners that hold it on.

At this point with the OMP line broken you are gonna need to replace it. That sucks, but if you have the rat's nest off the car it's not that bad. The good thing is the new line is nice and flexible and will go in there easily. I would replace both lines without question. If one broke the other isn't far behind.

There are 4 total stock plastic check valves. They are green/white and green/black. I can help you with replacement check valves, PM me on that.

You may want to post some pictures up of what you are seeing at this point, we can give some good feedback on how to get to things. If you have the rat's nest out you should just have the wiring there that's in the way.

Dale

 

Awesome! Thank you, I will post pictures this weekend. I'm mainly concerned with the oil line/injector underneath the ACV; the other one seems easy. So, to get the ACV off, it's just three fasteners?

 

Yep. If it's original you may have the original paper gasket that sucks. The new gasket is metal and can be re-used many times.

Dale

 

how on earth do you get a wrench around these damned things? one looks easy, its not. the other is underneath the dashpot thing and looks impossible . nice job mazda.