TMadlem84

I did search... but didn't find out exactly how to do it.

I installed an aftermarket wheel on my FD so that I can get in & out easier (I'm 6'4"). I read that you can rig up some sort of spring on the metal plate that is on the hub adapter... don't know how to do that... & I've also read that you can use the stock orange/green (I think those were the colors) wires that worked the horn on the stock wheel. Do I just hook the orange up to one side of the button, & green to the other?

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

Sorry to revive this thread from the dead, but I recently had the same issue when installing my new wheel and there wasn't much information available so I thought I'd write it up.

I installed a Grant Evolution GT wheel pictured here:


I used the manufacturer's installation kit specific to the FD, but it did not come with any provision for connecting the horn. I haven't had this problem with kits for other model cars from this company.

I'll quickly summarize how the factory horn works. Upon removal of the upper and lower plastic trim that surrounds the steering column you should find a small 6 or 7 pin connector on the left side. This connector contains wiring for the horn, SRS and cruise control. It is connected to a round mechanism that sits behind the steering wheel. Inside this mechanism is a length of thin ribbon cable that's wound around in a spool. Think of a tape measure. It allows the input side to remain fixed and the output side to pivot in either direction 3 full rotations from center.

Ideally, we'd use this factory wiring mechanism with our new wheel, but it's just too big and clunky and interferes with the installation kit. Therefore, we need another method of getting the horn wiring to the wheel. In older cars without SRS airbags, the horn wiring was attached to a spring loaded finger that pressed against a metal disc on the wheel assembly. This allowed the electrical signal to always reach the wheel. I thought about sourcing one of these mechanisms from an older car at the junkyard but that seemed like a lot of work. In another post, Ramy indicated that he simply wound enough wire to allow the steering wheel to pivot to full lock in either direction, so I went with that.

Using standard braided/insulated 16 gauge wire, I found that 7 winds around the column allowed for full travel from lock to lock. I left another 6 inches or so to connect to the wheel and the harness. The wire on the harness you want for the horn is the third one which is green and orange. To activate the horn, you simply ground this pin. Attach a vampire wire tap to this wire (you may need to cut off a bit of the heatshrink around the wiring harness). Wind your length of wire around the steering column leaving it slack enough to allow full rotation to either lock, and pass one end through the center of the hub adaptor. Connect the other end to the wire tap.

On my wheel, there are two connections for the horn. One is for this wire, the other is for ground. Because the steering column itself is grounded and all the hub adaptor parts are metal, the whole steering wheel is actually grounded. The ground portion of the horn button is also connected to the body of the wheel, so no additional wiring is necessary.

Before reassembling everything, test out the wheel's travel from lock to lock to make sure your wiring won't rip itself out and button everything back up.

In other threads people have mentioned that there are hub adaptors for other brand wheels that supply the horn signal. Not so on this $15 installation kit. Sorry about the verbosity, hope this helps someone.

edit: no install would be complete without a picture of the finished product:

chinaman

The round thing behind the steering wheel is called a clock spring. Would be nice if you had "during" pics of the install.

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

Ah yes, it says that right on the thing but I had forgotten the name and was too lazy to go out to the garage to look. I figured simple descriptive explanations would be easiest

edit: for those of you who are able to retain the factory clockspring mechanism, the pin you're looking for is the one that connects to the orange plug with the single pin in it from the factory wheel.

chinaman

I did the same thing you did with my 1st steering wheel but, did not use enough wire and it ended up tearing out the connection. Will use longer wire with my new steering wheel.
P.S. Your steering wheel looks nice...withoug the price of a Momo or Sparco, I'm guessing.......

IMPACT 7

I've been looking to do this for awhile.. Even read Ramy's old post on this subject as well. Thanks for the info, this should help simplify a few things.