How Reliable Can You Make the FD3S?
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How Reliable Can You Make the FD3S?
OK I just did a brief search on "reliable" and couldnt quite find what I was looking for... So I'll go ahead and ask here.
After installing a down pipe, upgrading the AST, replacing the vacuum hoses, modifying the stock airbox, installing an anti-knock sensor, and upgrading the radiator and intercooler... How reliable can the FD3S really be?
Let's also take into consideration that you've installed an air/fuel gauge, a boost gauge, and a water temperature gauge so you dont do stupid things like driving when the temperature is super high... Or just turn-off your car and walking away without letting your turbos cool down.
I'm about to purchase an R1, and over time I do plan to make those appropriate modifications. However, it is a bit worrisome if after spending all that money just on reliability mods, you've only increased reliability by... Lets say 20%? That would be frustrating indeed.
After installing a down pipe, upgrading the AST, replacing the vacuum hoses, modifying the stock airbox, installing an anti-knock sensor, and upgrading the radiator and intercooler... How reliable can the FD3S really be?
Let's also take into consideration that you've installed an air/fuel gauge, a boost gauge, and a water temperature gauge so you dont do stupid things like driving when the temperature is super high... Or just turn-off your car and walking away without letting your turbos cool down.
I'm about to purchase an R1, and over time I do plan to make those appropriate modifications. However, it is a bit worrisome if after spending all that money just on reliability mods, you've only increased reliability by... Lets say 20%? That would be frustrating indeed.
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A few guys here on the boards have FDs with over 100,00 miles on the original engine. It's all in how you treat the car. By the addressing the overheating issue soon you minimize a lot of problems. When buying a used FD do a good background check on the car (carfax). Find out if it had been raced often or abused. Remember this is a rx-7 once you go 7 you don't go back. Even if my engine blew and I needed new turbos I would "find" a way to fix my car. I would never get rid of my 7.
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same here. JH chin, to address your question, you can make the FD extremely reliable as long as you take care of it, and upgrade the right parts to make sure the car stays cool and happy! And I agree with r0g3, you make it N/A and it will be as relaible as any other car......but why when you can have turbo. Only a few have gone the N/A path which isn't bad but I love my boost!
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Originally posted by jetmech77
What is this mod the stock airbox mod????
What is this mod the stock airbox mod????
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Re: How Reliable Can You Make the FD3S?
Originally posted by JHChin
OK I just did a brief search on "reliable" and couldnt quite find what I was looking for... So I'll go ahead and ask here.
After installing a down pipe, upgrading the AST, replacing the vacuum hoses, modifying the stock airbox, installing an anti-knock sensor, and upgrading the radiator and intercooler... How reliable can the FD3S really be?
Let's also take into consideration that you've installed an air/fuel gauge, a boost gauge, and a water temperature gauge so you dont do stupid things like driving when the temperature is super high... Or just turn-off your car and walking away without letting your turbos cool down.
I'm about to purchase an R1, and over time I do plan to make those appropriate modifications. However, it is a bit worrisome if after spending all that money just on reliability mods, you've only increased reliability by... Lets say 20%? That would be frustrating indeed.
OK I just did a brief search on "reliable" and couldnt quite find what I was looking for... So I'll go ahead and ask here.
After installing a down pipe, upgrading the AST, replacing the vacuum hoses, modifying the stock airbox, installing an anti-knock sensor, and upgrading the radiator and intercooler... How reliable can the FD3S really be?
Let's also take into consideration that you've installed an air/fuel gauge, a boost gauge, and a water temperature gauge so you dont do stupid things like driving when the temperature is super high... Or just turn-off your car and walking away without letting your turbos cool down.
I'm about to purchase an R1, and over time I do plan to make those appropriate modifications. However, it is a bit worrisome if after spending all that money just on reliability mods, you've only increased reliability by... Lets say 20%? That would be frustrating indeed.
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Re: Re: How Reliable Can You Make the FD3S?
Originally posted by TurboFD
Ive heard lots of people say air/fuel ratio guages are crap. is it true anyone?
Ive heard lots of people say air/fuel ratio guages are crap. is it true anyone?
JHChin:
No matter what you do to these cars, they are NEVER going to be reliable in the Honda Civic sense. These are very focused, high-end sports cars. Mazda made a TON of compromises to keep the weight down and make it track-worthy. Durability and reliability were not concerns. If you are so worried about it, take my advice and do not get this car. There are other good sports cars in this price range that will be more reliable for daily use.
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Here are my fan mod links.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...a+thermoswitch
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...h&pagenumber=1
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fan_mod.html
I'm personally going with the Miata thermoswitch.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...a+thermoswitch
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...h&pagenumber=1
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fan_mod.html
I'm personally going with the Miata thermoswitch.
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Re: Re: Re: How Reliable Can You Make the FD3S?
Originally posted by rynberg
No matter what you do to these cars, they are NEVER going to be reliable in the Honda Civic sense. These are very focused, high-end sports cars. Mazda made a TON of compromises to keep the weight down and make it track-worthy. Durability and reliability were not concerns. If you are so worried about it, take my advice and do not get this car. There are other good sports cars in this price range that will be more reliable for daily use.
No matter what you do to these cars, they are NEVER going to be reliable in the Honda Civic sense. These are very focused, high-end sports cars. Mazda made a TON of compromises to keep the weight down and make it track-worthy. Durability and reliability were not concerns. If you are so worried about it, take my advice and do not get this car. There are other good sports cars in this price range that will be more reliable for daily use.
You say that there are "other good sports cars" in the same price range... However, I'm not sure which cars you're talking about. The 3000GT and 300ZX are total pieces of overweight garbage (in my opinion). And the Supra is overpriced and over-riced (a la "the Fast and the Felonius"). There's also Integra Type-Rs to consider, but they're wrong-wheel drive. American cars I wont even consider. That pretty much leaves me with the RX-7.
Plus, as an engineer, I'm totally entranced by the rotary engine...
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Depending on the power you want can make a big difference in reliability. If wanting to stay close to stock, then a dp, silicone hose job, AST elimination or aluminum, radiator, fan mod, and 10 psi stock boost will keep you in the somewhat reliable zone. If you stay sequential, you'll come across some boost issue at some time or another
If going heavier modded then converting to non-seq will help your turbos last longer and it gets rid of the rat's nest of vacuum hoses and solenoids. Cleans up the engine bay. Simple boost pattern but comes with a little bit of lag down low.
If going heavy modded then building your engine with silicone coolant seals and o-rings, coolant and oil porting for more flow, intake and exhaust porting for easier breathing, eccentric shaft plug mod for more oil flow, good ecu and GOOD TUNING will keep you somewhat reliable.
But these cars are rewarding. Nothing looks or drives like them - they're loud and stinky but can pull like a pack of wild dogs when WOT
If going heavier modded then converting to non-seq will help your turbos last longer and it gets rid of the rat's nest of vacuum hoses and solenoids. Cleans up the engine bay. Simple boost pattern but comes with a little bit of lag down low.
If going heavy modded then building your engine with silicone coolant seals and o-rings, coolant and oil porting for more flow, intake and exhaust porting for easier breathing, eccentric shaft plug mod for more oil flow, good ecu and GOOD TUNING will keep you somewhat reliable.
But these cars are rewarding. Nothing looks or drives like them - they're loud and stinky but can pull like a pack of wild dogs when WOT
#15
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Originally posted by kwikrx7
But these cars are rewarding. Nothing looks or drives like them - they're loud and stinky but can pull like a pack of wild dogs when WOT
But these cars are rewarding. Nothing looks or drives like them - they're loud and stinky but can pull like a pack of wild dogs when WOT
love the descriptive phrase--I'll have to remember to use that one the next time an unsuspecting C5 owner asks me about my 7
#16
I'm a CF and poop smith
Just drive it till it dies and then drop a V-8 in to it. Its the only way to make your fd truely relible. Well that and having a couple of extra engines laying around
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My 93 base (with 96k miles on original engine/turbos/etc) has proven every bit as reliable as my 94 (with 58k miles) Mustang GT (with the venerable 302)... Change the oil every 2500-3000 miles, coolant and fuel filter every year, and spark plugs every 20k and a rotary can last forever...
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FD3S's are, in my humble opinion, analogous to aircraft: high performance and high maintenance. You do your job, keep up w maintaining its systems, and do preventive maintenance to keep this car in top shape. Its performance and handling are unequalled at its age or price range. No other car has given me more smiles per gallon: I should list gasoline purchases for my FD as "entertainment expenses". : )
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I own my FD for over 7 years all stock, just as reliable as any other car, if you hook the **** out if it than you will need much more maintenence, fan mode is the **** keeps your car nice and cool if you moding it.
#20
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Originally posted by TwinTurbo93
if you hook the **** out if it than you will need much more maintenence, fan mode is the **** keeps your car nice and cool if you moding it.
if you hook the **** out if it than you will need much more maintenence, fan mode is the **** keeps your car nice and cool if you moding it.
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Re: Re: Re: Re: How Reliable Can You Make the FD3S?
Originally posted by JHChin
If the RX-7 can be made at least as reliable as American cars, I'd consider that golden! Especially since it would only be my weekend car.
Plus, as an engineer, I'm totally entranced by the rotary engine...
If the RX-7 can be made at least as reliable as American cars, I'd consider that golden! Especially since it would only be my weekend car.
Plus, as an engineer, I'm totally entranced by the rotary engine...
If your car is selected carefully (critical), and the mileage is pretty low, you should have a reliable car. Mine hasn't had a 'down' day yet except for the day I left the hatch up and drained my battery
If you aren't afraid to poke around carefully and do work on this car yourself, you'll be fine. I consider it a labor of love, but you'll need to spend time researching on the 'net first to make sure your fixes are done well.
This is a perfect weekend car. The reliability will go up because you can afford (owning a daily driver) to let the FD sit when you encounter a little problem, rather than using it to get to work and causing a much bigger problem. You don't need to be paranoid, but it is a race car - it will not run itself.
For reliability, the intercooler is not worth changing. Only needed if you intend to increase boost. Modifying the stock air box does not affect reliability, only power. For as gauges, forget the A/F and get boost gauge and water temp gauge. Pay attention to the power addition of any mods, more than 2 and you should consider getting the car tuned and/or a new ECU. This car is a boatload of fun at stock power.
Dave
94 VR R2, 54k miles, downpipe, Al AST, Efini Y-Pipe, GAB 8-ways. Soon to add Miata thermoswitch and Fluidyne rad.
#22
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How Reliable Can You Make the FD3S?
Originally posted by dgeesaman
Well, I can speak about this plan, since I bought an R2 in this manner 3 months ago. It's been great, although I've been buying these reliability mods and little fixes a lot faster than I need to (spent about $1500 so far). Half of that was me fixing up the interior and cosmetic stuff.
If your car is selected carefully (critical), and the mileage is pretty low, you should have a reliable car. Mine hasn't had a 'down' day yet except for the day I left the hatch up and drained my battery
If you aren't afraid to poke around carefully and do work on this car yourself, you'll be fine. I consider it a labor of love, but you'll need to spend time researching on the 'net first to make sure your fixes are done well.
This is a perfect weekend car. The reliability will go up because you can afford (owning a daily driver) to let the FD sit when you encounter a little problem, rather than using it to get to work and causing a much bigger problem. You don't need to be paranoid, but it is a race car - it will not run itself.
For reliability, the intercooler is not worth changing. Only needed if you intend to increase boost. Modifying the stock air box does not affect reliability, only power. For as gauges, forget the A/F and get boost gauge and water temp gauge. Pay attention to the power addition of any mods, more than 2 and you should consider getting the car tuned and/or a new ECU. This car is a boatload of fun at stock power.
Dave
94 VR R2, 54k miles, downpipe, Al AST, Efini Y-Pipe, GAB 8-ways. Soon to add Miata thermoswitch and Fluidyne rad.
Well, I can speak about this plan, since I bought an R2 in this manner 3 months ago. It's been great, although I've been buying these reliability mods and little fixes a lot faster than I need to (spent about $1500 so far). Half of that was me fixing up the interior and cosmetic stuff.
If your car is selected carefully (critical), and the mileage is pretty low, you should have a reliable car. Mine hasn't had a 'down' day yet except for the day I left the hatch up and drained my battery
If you aren't afraid to poke around carefully and do work on this car yourself, you'll be fine. I consider it a labor of love, but you'll need to spend time researching on the 'net first to make sure your fixes are done well.
This is a perfect weekend car. The reliability will go up because you can afford (owning a daily driver) to let the FD sit when you encounter a little problem, rather than using it to get to work and causing a much bigger problem. You don't need to be paranoid, but it is a race car - it will not run itself.
For reliability, the intercooler is not worth changing. Only needed if you intend to increase boost. Modifying the stock air box does not affect reliability, only power. For as gauges, forget the A/F and get boost gauge and water temp gauge. Pay attention to the power addition of any mods, more than 2 and you should consider getting the car tuned and/or a new ECU. This car is a boatload of fun at stock power.
Dave
94 VR R2, 54k miles, downpipe, Al AST, Efini Y-Pipe, GAB 8-ways. Soon to add Miata thermoswitch and Fluidyne rad.
#23
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Of everyone who just said that their FD3S was reliable thus far... Do you guys knock on wood everytime you say it? jk
I'm gonna go pick up my R1 (with 87k miles on chassis, 10k on engine) tomorrow. Wish me luck.
I'm gonna go pick up my R1 (with 87k miles on chassis, 10k on engine) tomorrow. Wish me luck.