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how to properly jack up your Fd

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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 03:30 AM
  #26  
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my setup

thats were i fitted the struts, where the sub frame meet the body, safest place. car body doesnt look like that any more btw







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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 08:47 AM
  #27  
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lift it up from the front lip and the exhaust, AND the oil pan !!!!
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 09:14 AM
  #28  
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From: Katy Tx
thanks for posting the user manual.. the subframe is not really the smartest place to put it for the simple reason the due to all the front end weight on one point can actually (which honestly is rare) buckle or tweak the from pushing the lift point up. same with control arms considering ours are aluminum. as for the rear diff... all your doin is stressign out your bushings but to each their own... i use lift at work


Clos
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #29  
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From: Limassol, CYPRUS
if u take my post seriously you gonna end up braking up your car !
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 09:40 AM
  #30  
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Seriously lately this forum has gone downhill with these type of questions.. None the hell its hilarious. I'll post a picture of mine on jack stands tonight!
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #31  
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Sometime ago I made Jacking pucks that mount permanently on the car at the 4 mazda jacking points. I made these from solid aluminum bar. The pucks have a round raised spot on top for the floor jack to center and not slip off. I have these on all three of my fds. Work perfectly. No more bent pinch points, rusting, etc. I can make them for a small fee for anyone interested.


later
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 10:17 AM
  #32  
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in the factory service manual general information section page GI-8 availible in the FAQ section for download on this forum it says to jack up the car using "at center of crossmember" (front) and "at center of the differential" (rear). jack stand positions are on the "side sills"
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 10:24 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Aeka GSR
anybody that works on a street based car is fairly cookie cutter, its all been done, we all know it, we don't need a know it all telling us, **** I'm not even sure where that "ice burn" even came from.


Originally Posted by 4CN A1R
now i remember why i stoped posting in the 3rd gen section
Not sure what that is supposed to mean.

-J
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 10:25 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by badddrx7
Sometime ago I made Jacking pucks that mount permanently on the car at the 4 mazda jacking points. I made these from solid aluminum bar. The pucks have a round raised spot on top for the floor jack to center and not slip off. I have these on all three of my fds. Work perfectly. No more bent pinch points, rusting, etc. I can make them for a small fee for anyone interested.


later
Very nice

-J
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 10:25 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by badddrx7
Sometime ago I made Jacking pucks that mount permanently on the car at the 4 mazda jacking points. I made these from solid aluminum bar. The pucks have a round raised spot on top for the floor jack to center and not slip off. I have these on all three of my fds. Work perfectly. No more bent pinch points, rusting, etc. I can make them for a small fee for anyone interested.


later
awesome
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 06:07 PM
  #36  
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badddrx7

thats cool.......price?
Old Nov 28, 2008 | 10:45 PM
  #37  
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If you are still having trouble with this, I can show you just pm me.

The pinch welds are the strongest point to use, we use them every single time whether its with a floor jack, or a lift at work.

When I have had to do work on my cars (using a floor jack), (always starting with the front) I jacked up one side on the pinch weld, stuck a jack stand under it, then lifted the other side and put a jack stand under it, but make sure you have something behind the 2 rear wheels that are on the ground because the last thing you want is to have it roll back. In the rear I do the same as the other guys said and lift off the diff.

I second using a jack stand which is designed for the pinch weld.

Last edited by 20B 3 Rotor; Nov 28, 2008 at 10:51 PM.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:22 AM
  #38  
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haha....guess i always thought it was obvious on how to jack up anything. Find a sturdy point and pump it.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 02:52 AM
  #39  
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pretty much, but with these cars, if your unsure of something, you better ask someone. Not to mention the fact that you will be going under the car, so if you just randomly pick a point and it turns out to be the wrong point, your fu**ed.

On something completely different, street racer the reason why you may have read that it was a good idea to put the stands under the suspension points is because I guess there is a belief that this will cause the suspension to rest as if it is on the ground, which is not the case as it will cause stress on parts that werent meant to hold that kind of weight.

The only reason they may have thought that supporting the car on the pinch welds was bad and that it should be on the suspension is because when the suspension is just hanging there I guess puts it out its general range of motion and put it in a state of hyper extension or something like that.

This is only a problem if you leave it for a really long time, like storage.

On a sidenote, people think that when you store your car you should put it on jack stands to keep the weight off the suspension, which is the exact opposite of what you should do and you should never do this.

So if you just put it on the stands at the pinch welds to do some work on it, its completely fine.
Old Nov 30, 2008 | 11:05 AM
  #40  
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thanks to the guys that helped, i put my jacks under the pinch welds where its indicated to do so. I just wanted to know I was doing it right since I was told that it was the wrong way

I agree there are a lot of ****** on here, if you don't have something to say to help, then **** off. Your the reason people like me with simple questions feel scared to ask them, yes i may be somewhat of a noob but im sure you weren't born with the rotary bible burnt into your brain either. We were all noobs at some point. I'd rather ask a stupid question like this rather then **** up my car or worse, have the car land on me

Once again, thanks to those helpful members, you are the last of a dying breed, keep it up
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 05:43 PM
  #41  
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just wondering, who told you that the pinch welds were the wrong place to put the jack stands?
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 05:51 PM
  #42  
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From: Pluto
control arms are for the lateral movements only. They are not designed for vertical applied forces.

To avoid damage and possible injury or death from a fallen car, I would use the lift points recommended by the manufactor
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 06:09 PM
  #43  
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is this deja vu or was there a thread about this a looong time ago and garco posted his custom side stills of steel..
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 07:16 PM
  #44  
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Guys this is what we call the JDM sickness here in Canada, bringing potential used Civic buyers to owning FD's redundiculous.

I think it should be noted that before doing anything you don't know how to do the first step is looking for information, then reading the information and finally applying the information.
Old Dec 1, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by street_racer_271
I searched all the FAQ guides and used the search, and couldn't find anything for 3rd gens, i found one for 2nd gens, they say jack the rear using the diff and the front using the front support. Is that the big metal piece behind the motor? cause its pretty far away to get a jack under there? I did it the wrong way before using the the joint just under the car, and from the sides

Use the search button. Search for "jacking points" or "jack points". You'll get a few pages of good results from people who actually know what they are doing and posted it rather than start another redundant thread.

Here is one that I found in less than 10 seconds by searching:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...jacking+points
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