Just wondering what gear should i be in on the dyno for max readings. Yesterday I did 3 runs at constant 266whp at 7500rpm. I don't have a rev limiter(I don't think) so i let off at redline everytime.

When i was done my turn on the dyno another guy said I should have been in 4th gear and floored it. It was my first time at the dyno and didn't really know. The guy operating the dyno said 3rd should be fine? Wonder if I should go back and try it in 4th and go to 8000rpm. I mean 266 at the wheels is pretty decent for a few mods. Just wondering if I could have gotta a little higher numbers with it in 4th.

 

i'm not sure about fd's but in most transmission setups like ours it's 4th for 1:1, and in fwd trans it's 3rd for 1:1..

 

4th gear is 1:1 for almost all cars unless it's a 6spd

 

Cool so maybe in 4th gear at 1:1 I might have a little more hp.

 

The gear you're in will not change how much horsepower you have, it will only read a bit higher on your sheet. Readings on a dyno aren't really that important, especially if you're near stock. You could go to a different dyno under the same conditions and have it read higher or lower, it's just a number.

 

I have an automatic (4 gears) and took it to rx7.com for a dyno tune. He did most of the tuning in 2nd gear and some pulls in 3rd. There is a substantial difference in whp. He said 4th gear would be a little more hp. I've attached two pulls below:

One 2nd gear and one 3rd gear

 

So what numbers/readings do matter on a dyno? My work put on a car show and they brought in a dyno so I figured hey when does a dyno ever show up at work. So i got my car on it. It's not so much stock, I have a redome type b ecu, trust intercooler, hks intakes, feed dp, sard mp and some sort of muffler, exedy twin plate carbon clutch kit with flywheel.

With these mods it only made like 10hp from stock seemed kinda sad. The re-mapped ecu has my boost set at 12-10-12 and i have 850cc for primary and secondary. Either way it was still a cool feeling on the dyno. Sounds amazing!

 

Your car is not 10hp from stock. Stock FD is ~200whp... you laid down 266whp

Wheel Horse Power (WHP) is different from Motor/Flywheel Horse Power (HP/FWHP) because it takes into account power lost through the transmission.

 

Ok so that's what I didn't know. Cause the stock hp say 255 but that's not (whp). So that's pretty good then. I got my money's worth!

 

sounds like you did, you made the same power I did with fairly similar mods, a good tune on a different ecu and you could easily see in the range of 300 whp

 

It's a little more complicated on an automatic due to the torque converter and overdrive.

 

Thanks guys for the input! I would like to maybe get a PFC and get it tuned. But I've had no issues with this car with the mods I have and have been driving this as a daily for the last few years.

Well I have fixed alot of things before they turned into issues I guess. Anyway it's a blast to drive and now I know what it has for power.

 

If it's running ok and the AFR's are safe I would leave the factory computer unless you really get the mod bug. As long as everything's working right it's hard to beat an OEM control unit in terms of driveability. Also remember that turbo cars are very sensitive to outside temps. Even though dynos have "correction factors" they don't really work well on turbo cars. If you look at the actual SAE standard conditions for dyno testing (PM me, I have the SAE paper) you'll see that they don't allow much deviation of coolant temps, intake temps, intercooler temps, etc.