How much should I expect to pay for a rebuilt engine?
11-22-11, 09:41 AM
#27
Yeah there is some mold in there. I got 5 gallons of water out of the hatch and floor boards. But so far no rust. I am pulling the dash today so I can pull the carpet and trash it. Pulled the seats yesterday and cut a slit where the seats would be and got all the water off of the floor boards. The interior panels are cleaning up rather well. Brushing everything off and vacuuming the hell out of it then spraying everything with ammonia.
This looks like an awesome project and I wish you the best.
Regards,
Crispy
PS I'm in MD and if you are local I'm more than willing to chat if you have questions. Oh and I rebuild engines also.
11-22-11, 08:19 PM
#30
Didn't have enough time to get the dash and carpet out today but was able to power the car up so I could check the mileage for the title work. 80,058 on the od. No funny fizzy noises or what not 
Got off till monday so it will get done tomorrow night. Not attempting to start the car till I replace the plugs,oil, oil filter,coolant,battery,fuel filter and drain the tank. Anything else I should do before attempting startup???
Got off till monday so it will get done tomorrow night. Not attempting to start the car till I replace the plugs,oil, oil filter,coolant,battery,fuel filter and drain the tank. Anything else I should do before attempting startup???
11-22-11, 09:17 PM
#31
11-23-11, 08:08 AM
#34
11-23-11, 08:40 AM
#35
O. I do consider myself in pretty good shape as its almost completely stock. I know what will be changed and how it was done. The car has a silicon hose job and aftermarket exhaust. I haven't gotten into the rats nest yet but I have the factory workshop manual and a complete car. I will use a camera extensively to help get it back together correctly if I have to dive in there. Can't wait to work on it after I get off work lol. With the 300 I just wish it was out of my hair so I didn't have to work on it...
11-23-11, 11:07 AM
#38
O. I do consider myself in pretty good shape as its almost completely stock. I know what will be changed and how it was done. The car has a silicon hose job and aftermarket exhaust. I haven't gotten into the rats nest yet but I have the factory workshop manual and a complete car. I will use a camera extensively to help get it back together correctly if I have to dive in there. Can't wait to work on it after I get off work lol. With the 300 I just wish it was out of my hair so I didn't have to work on it...
the smile it will put on your face will be ear to ear.
~CYD
11-23-11, 12:04 PM
#39
best advice is to just take it slow. it's annoying when i get to tearing apart an engine to find that all the clips are broken on the engine harness because someone was careless. or that only half the vacuum hoses were replaced because it was more convenient. or that someone really loves to play with silicone like there is such a thing as "silicone injection" for the intake system.
11-23-11, 02:16 PM
#40
I will take it slow. I've tore into cars before and I know the outcome of rushing and just throwing things here and there to get it done.... I will label all my screws and such in baggies abc/123 just like the manual has them come out and so forth so there will be minimal room for error. Thanks guys. I have a smile on my face already knowing there is a fd in my garage Tearing the interior and dash out tonight. Maybe drain the tank as well. Waiting on my parts That I ordered from malloy mazda to come in.
Tearing the interior and dash out tonight. Maybe drain the tank as well. Waiting on my parts That I ordered from malloy mazda to come in.
11-23-11, 10:33 PM
#41
Well the factory manual is pretty vague. I made a page n a half of notes. Learned alot today. Removing the cluster was driving me crazy. The manual is just wrong when it comes to that piece. Had to figure it out on my own. But all of my screws are labled and notes taken on the size/material of them and how certain things need to go in. It looks like I will be replacing almost all of the interior :$ Dash and carpet are out. The floor is now dry and no rust what so ever
11-24-11, 08:56 AM
#42
There is some good advice in this thread, now let me give my opinion, take it for what it is. Ive only put around 100 of these cars back on the road over the last 9 years.
Karack, said it perfectly. These cars are restoration projects now, no longer "builds". With that said:
1. Replace the wiring harness from ECU to Engine. Yes it is around $850.00, which sucks. NO, it will not give you more HP. All it will do is make your life 1000 times easier dealing with this 20 year old car that has sat for 3 years or longer. Dont ask questions about this, just do it if you plan to actually drive the car more than work on it.
2. Replace all hoses in the engine bay and delete the AST. This includes coolant and vacuum lines. If you keep the car sequential, simplify the rats nest and replace all the solenoids underneath. This will cost about $250-300.00 for the new solenoids you will need.
3. Replace the bushings, this could almost be in the number 1 spot but if the wiring harness is jacked up you wont be driving the car to realize how FN annoying bad bushings are. They make the car feel cheaper than it actually is, and the FD doesnt need much help to feel cheap.
4. While replacing the rats nests lines and coolant hoses buy a new Fuel Pulsation Dampner, this will run you about $140.00 from Malloy Mazda. This will prevent your precious fd from burning to the ground.
5. Water/Meth kit. I prefer the AEM kit you can get on ebay for $360.00 shipped. Extremely easy to install and if your car is a touring edition you can use the rear windshield washer tank as part of the install and the system is pretty much hidden. This is the best performance modification you will make to your car.
6. Downpipe/Exhaust
7. Exterior mods. Struts/Springs(dont slam it and make it look hella gay errr Flush or whatever) Nice wheels(for the love of god at least get an aggressive staggered setup, try to not get cheap wheels as it is a nice car), R1 front lip which keeps it simple but looks great.
8. Start modding it with whatever you want from there, it is your car.
Before wanting a super mad tight 500hp bridge port that idles high and like ****, loud as hell and is not fun to drive below 5k rpms, I suggest you experience what Mazda really intended this car to be with a proper sequential system.
Ive driven most every setup under the sun, and recently fell in love with these cars all over again when I decided to leave my 47k mile car sequential with a fresh stock port rebuild. It wont outrun everything on the street(99% of what I encounter it will), but I know it is about the most fun thing I can get behind the wheel of short of supercar territory or my T-Rex.
Karack, said it perfectly. These cars are restoration projects now, no longer "builds". With that said:
1. Replace the wiring harness from ECU to Engine. Yes it is around $850.00, which sucks. NO, it will not give you more HP. All it will do is make your life 1000 times easier dealing with this 20 year old car that has sat for 3 years or longer. Dont ask questions about this, just do it if you plan to actually drive the car more than work on it.
2. Replace all hoses in the engine bay and delete the AST. This includes coolant and vacuum lines. If you keep the car sequential, simplify the rats nest and replace all the solenoids underneath. This will cost about $250-300.00 for the new solenoids you will need.
3. Replace the bushings, this could almost be in the number 1 spot but if the wiring harness is jacked up you wont be driving the car to realize how FN annoying bad bushings are. They make the car feel cheaper than it actually is, and the FD doesnt need much help to feel cheap.
4. While replacing the rats nests lines and coolant hoses buy a new Fuel Pulsation Dampner, this will run you about $140.00 from Malloy Mazda. This will prevent your precious fd from burning to the ground.
5. Water/Meth kit. I prefer the AEM kit you can get on ebay for $360.00 shipped. Extremely easy to install and if your car is a touring edition you can use the rear windshield washer tank as part of the install and the system is pretty much hidden. This is the best performance modification you will make to your car.
6. Downpipe/Exhaust
7. Exterior mods. Struts/Springs(dont slam it and make it look hella gay errr Flush or whatever) Nice wheels(for the love of god at least get an aggressive staggered setup, try to not get cheap wheels as it is a nice car), R1 front lip which keeps it simple but looks great.
8. Start modding it with whatever you want from there, it is your car.
Before wanting a super mad tight 500hp bridge port that idles high and like ****, loud as hell and is not fun to drive below 5k rpms, I suggest you experience what Mazda really intended this car to be with a proper sequential system.
Ive driven most every setup under the sun, and recently fell in love with these cars all over again when I decided to leave my 47k mile car sequential with a fresh stock port rebuild. It wont outrun everything on the street(99% of what I encounter it will), but I know it is about the most fun thing I can get behind the wheel of short of supercar territory or my T-Rex.
11-24-11, 10:34 AM
#43
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: japan
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Get 'er done bro.
It's a pain in the *** but bringing one of these back from near death is admirable.
Like folks have said take your time and do it right, it's not rocket science you just have to check and double check your work.
The thing with these cars is the tune, it can make or break you. I'd keep it easy on the mods unless you have access to a good tuner.
Mechanically the engine is pretty simple as long as you make sure your tolerances are good, but the tune is where I think a lot of people have problems.
blowing engines in these cars means you either got lazy in the rebuild, or dont have a proper or too aggressive tune like using aggressive timing.
Putting in AI like you mentioned REALLY helps with knock threshold even if you're not tuning it in for additional power. It's a great reliability mod in and of itself.
Kudo's for takin this on, you sound like you got the right approach to being happy with your final result.
It's a pain in the *** but bringing one of these back from near death is admirable.
Like folks have said take your time and do it right, it's not rocket science you just have to check and double check your work.
The thing with these cars is the tune, it can make or break you. I'd keep it easy on the mods unless you have access to a good tuner.
Mechanically the engine is pretty simple as long as you make sure your tolerances are good, but the tune is where I think a lot of people have problems.
blowing engines in these cars means you either got lazy in the rebuild, or dont have a proper or too aggressive tune like using aggressive timing.
Putting in AI like you mentioned REALLY helps with knock threshold even if you're not tuning it in for additional power. It's a great reliability mod in and of itself.
Kudo's for takin this on, you sound like you got the right approach to being happy with your final result.
11-27-11, 09:54 PM
#44
I have a bunch of store credit left over from z1 motorsports I will use for a aem meth injection and guages etc. Just ordered a stud welder today to pull the quarter/roof back out before I cut and weld in the new stuff in. Got the new hatch bolted on for fitment of the new panels. I will rent or borrow a welder for now. Biggest thing I need to get is a bigger air compressor and paint guns/tools etc. I am doing all the bodywork myself. If anyone needs 300zx tt parts I will trade for rx7 performance parts 
Also got the motor out of my 300tt. What a pain in the dic% that was....
Also got the motor out of my 300tt. What a pain in the dic% that was....
12-03-11, 08:01 PM
#45
Figured. I would give a little update. Got layed off last monday. I think it is what they might call a blessing in disguise lol. Just wont be able to order my performance stuff till I get a new job.But I've got some money saved up so I'm gonna take a 2 month vacation since I havent taken one in 3 years and finish up my body work. Bought a straight piece from revin sevens the area marked with the green tape and ordering new fenders monday. Here is how it sits right now. Pulled the quarter out good enough so the inner quarter is very close and will be very minimal work to fit new one on. So much nicer having room to work without the z in there.... I guess I should start a build thread lol.
12-03-11, 08:10 PM
#46
"1. Replace the wiring harness from ECU to Engine. Yes it is around $850.00, which sucks. NO, it will not give you more HP. All it will do is make your life 1000 times easier dealing with this 20 year old car that has sat for 3 years or longer. Dont ask questions about this, just do it if you plan to actually drive the car more than work on it." Really? No horsepower??? ? :P
lol. Thanks guys. Appreciate all the advice
lol. Thanks guys. Appreciate all the advice
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rx8volks
Canadian Forum
0
08-13-15 04:55 AM
