How much should I expect to pay for a rebuilt engine?
09-20-11, 03:23 PM
#1
How much should I expect to pay for a rebuilt engine?
Im looking at buying a 7 in the next couple months or modding my mr2. I am thinking about getting a car with a blown motor or minus a motor and going from there. I was wondering what should I expect to pay for a fresh quality rebuilt motor? Think I am better off paying 5g more for a running rx7? I will have about 10g to spend and that includes the price of the car. Thanks
09-20-11, 04:11 PM
#3
it's a toss up, most running cars still have issues as almost none are unmolested or done by professional shops that know how to install and set up the engine to factory specs. then you have the added part of the equation which is people self modding their cars even after having it professionally installed, doing mods improperly.
ideally a running car with a fresh rebuild already would be best, but i would still have a rotary specialist look everything over for any issues, unless you feel you're qualified to do that on your own.
but to answer the question there are several different avenues, the most basic of rebuilds will run you about $1550 for the block alone while reusing many of the core parts such as irons, rotors, rotor housings and some of the seals/carriers. the next step would be building an engine with at minimum new rotor housings which add about $1500 to the cost putting it closer to $3k for an almost new engine. building a completely new engine is around $6500.
i now do housing resurfacing(goopy racing also does the service, which resurfacing is still in debate mode) to freshen up the internals for a rebuild that more resembles something you would get from new parts for a basic price of $1700 for a rebuilt engine.
broken parts such as a blown rotor/housing add $ to the price.
ideally a running car with a fresh rebuild already would be best, but i would still have a rotary specialist look everything over for any issues, unless you feel you're qualified to do that on your own.
but to answer the question there are several different avenues, the most basic of rebuilds will run you about $1550 for the block alone while reusing many of the core parts such as irons, rotors, rotor housings and some of the seals/carriers. the next step would be building an engine with at minimum new rotor housings which add about $1500 to the cost putting it closer to $3k for an almost new engine. building a completely new engine is around $6500.
i now do housing resurfacing(goopy racing also does the service, which resurfacing is still in debate mode) to freshen up the internals for a rebuild that more resembles something you would get from new parts for a basic price of $1700 for a rebuilt engine.
broken parts such as a blown rotor/housing add $ to the price.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-20-11 at 04:18 PM.
09-20-11, 04:15 PM
#4
Well I have no problem working on cars. Ive worked on all my cars/trucks and this would be number 20 something lol. I have a garage and tools. Ive researched rx7's for years but have never owned one. I know first things first and reliablity mods is at the top of the list and when buying a 20 year old car some attention will be needed. Plan of attack would be realiablity and restoration, water injection and premix. I know its not saying much but just goes to show my enthusiasm. I have the 93 factory service manual and all the dealer publications. Ive owned that stuff for 5 years now. Always wanted a 7 but was always blowing my money on other things. Im just wondering what a rebuilt engine would cost should I buy one with a blown motor. Id rather buy a new motor then buy a 7 that was recently freshend up cause I wouldnt know how the po drove it or what they jerry rigged etc..
09-20-11, 04:21 PM
#6
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Keep the Mr2 and mod it, for thousands less you could stop faster than an rx7. I am just kidding, it will be cheaper in the long run to buy a well done running example. Even then there will still be problems you run into but at least you can enjoy it in between each thing you fix.
As for engines, there are 2 rebuilt, very nicely done short blocks for sale at right around $3k in the for sale section, one of them is in Maryland I believe.
As for engines, there are 2 rebuilt, very nicely done short blocks for sale at right around $3k in the for sale section, one of them is in Maryland I believe.
09-20-11, 04:21 PM
#7
a bridge isn't necessary for 500whp, it is only necessary if you expect to shift the power band closer to 10k or higher for a full bridge or about 9-9500 for a half bridge. full bridges dramatically reduce city drivability as well as fuel mileage.
3mm seals will help prevent failures but add more wear and slightly less low engine speed compression. rotor milling generally runs $300+ for a pair of rotors.
3mm seals will help prevent failures but add more wear and slightly less low engine speed compression. rotor milling generally runs $300+ for a pair of rotors.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-20-11 at 04:26 PM.
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09-20-11, 04:30 PM
#8
Keep the Mr2 and mod it, for thousands less you could stop faster than an rx7. I am just kidding, it will be cheaper in the long run to buy a well done running example. Even then there will still be problems you run into but at least you can enjoy it in between each thing you fix.
As for engines, there are 2 rebuilt, very nicely done short blocks for sale at right around $3k in the for sale section, one of them is in Maryland I believe.
As for engines, there are 2 rebuilt, very nicely done short blocks for sale at right around $3k in the for sale section, one of them is in Maryland I believe.
09-20-11, 04:34 PM
#9
well, keep in mind you can find well modded FDs for around $15k already completely done up, single turbos that have good paint and nice all around. if you spend $5k on a roller and plan on doing the rest you'll save the time in labor and can polish up other little things around the car. if you really enjoy building cars from the ground up then there's nothing wrong with building up a decent roller.
sadly a nice FD here was just parted out because he couldn't get the $15k he was asking for it. 400whp is nothing to scoff at and it was in nice condition, the car would have easily be able to do 500whp if converted back to pump fuel/AI or upgrading the E85 fuel system.
sadly a nice FD here was just parted out because he couldn't get the $15k he was asking for it. 400whp is nothing to scoff at and it was in nice condition, the car would have easily be able to do 500whp if converted back to pump fuel/AI or upgrading the E85 fuel system.
09-20-11, 04:40 PM
#10
Well Im still torn. Driving the car off the bat would be nice. Knowing that my motor is done right and got a proper break in and not beat to hell means alot too though. I guess I will just shop till I drop for the cleanest 7 running or not for the money.
09-20-11, 04:52 PM
#11
I do enjoy building cars from the ground up. It's way more expensive but I would have a "new" car after I was done. Ill just have to shop and snag up the best deal. Im going to stop by the peter farrel shop sometime this week and see what they say on pricing for a motor as well. Good thing is I can afford to buy a new motor should I go the roller route. I'll save some more cash and see whats out there. I really want a black r1 with a mint interior. Paint codition doesnt matter but a clean history does.
09-20-11, 05:16 PM
#12
I would save up to get a mint running car. For $15k you can get amazing FDs with very low miles at the moment.
The problem with rollers or cars with blown motors is that they are likely to be trashed cosmetically too. Back in 2003 when I was looking at rollers or cars with a blown engines, I saw nothing but garbage cosmetically. (And most had huge chassis miles and many had salvage titles.) These cars have fragile paint and interiors and many that I have seen looked surprisingly aged.
I can't imagine what it is like now 8 years later.
Cosmetically restoring an FD is expensive. Interiors will be $1-2k to fix (used - new will be 5 times that) and will probably never look great unless you replace nearly every panel, seats etc. Paint will be $3-$5k+ for a decent job.
Factor those into the price, and buying a complete, well cared for, running car nearly always makes sense - unless you are not too worried about cosmetic condition.
The problem with rollers or cars with blown motors is that they are likely to be trashed cosmetically too. Back in 2003 when I was looking at rollers or cars with a blown engines, I saw nothing but garbage cosmetically. (And most had huge chassis miles and many had salvage titles.) These cars have fragile paint and interiors and many that I have seen looked surprisingly aged.
I can't imagine what it is like now 8 years later.
Cosmetically restoring an FD is expensive. Interiors will be $1-2k to fix (used - new will be 5 times that) and will probably never look great unless you replace nearly every panel, seats etc. Paint will be $3-$5k+ for a decent job.
Factor those into the price, and buying a complete, well cared for, running car nearly always makes sense - unless you are not too worried about cosmetic condition.
09-20-11, 05:27 PM
#13
I think that if you have the time and money to take on a roller project then do it. Some things will go well and other things will not, but it's all a learning process, if you stick it out by the end of your build you will be pretty knowledgeable about your car and know how to maintain it well.
I don't advise you to take on such a project with a budget because that usually does not work. If all you have is 10K to buy a roller and build it then you should reconsider.
I don't advise you to take on such a project with a budget because that usually does not work. If all you have is 10K to buy a roller and build it then you should reconsider.
09-20-11, 05:39 PM
#14
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edit: the braking comment was a shot at a troll we have on the board that always brings up braking as to why the MR2 is so good.
11-21-11, 09:30 PM
#15
So I bought a 7 this weekend! 
Got a call from a guy over the weekend out of the blue from a 7 I inquired about on craigslist over a month ago. The add had no pics and just said it had suffered damage from the hurricane. He was asking 5k at the time. The previous owners chimney was crushed by a tree and the bricks came falling down onto the car. He only had liability :0 Clean title. The car hasn't been run in 3 years. After haggling I picked the car up for 2500 and payed 600 to tow it 180 miles. Picked up a straight hatch for it already and just ordered a new roof panel and quarter panel. Still need to order lots more. Been working on the car 3 hours a day since I got it. This is gonna be a mint car when it's done. This cats got 7 lives Soo Excited!!!
Got a call from a guy over the weekend out of the blue from a 7 I inquired about on craigslist over a month ago. The add had no pics and just said it had suffered damage from the hurricane. He was asking 5k at the time. The previous owners chimney was crushed by a tree and the bricks came falling down onto the car. He only had liability :0 Clean title. The car hasn't been run in 3 years. After haggling I picked the car up for 2500 and payed 600 to tow it 180 miles. Picked up a straight hatch for it already and just ordered a new roof panel and quarter panel. Still need to order lots more. Been working on the car 3 hours a day since I got it. This is gonna be a mint car when it's done. This cats got 7 lives Soo Excited!!!
11-22-11, 04:17 AM
#18
Yeah there is some mold in there. I got 5 gallons of water out of the hatch and floor boards. But so far no rust. I am pulling the dash today so I can pull the carpet and trash it. Pulled the seats yesterday and cut a slit where the seats would be and got all the water off of the floor boards. The interior panels are cleaning up rather well. Brushing everything off and vacuuming the hell out of it then spraying everything with ammonia.
11-22-11, 06:56 AM
#19
Engine price
As one who has just finished rebuilding my car from the ground up I can tell you 15K will easily be spent. I've owned my car since Sept of 1992 so I know every issue the car has ever had. Mine started with the clearcoat peeling and since I wanted her like new the saga began. The term new engine means different things, but mine was all new I bought every part to build the engine from Mazda. Fortunately I have dealt with this Mazda dealer for the last 19 years and got terrific prices. The prices for all RX7 parts (FD) have significantly increased over the last 4 years. New housings alone are close to 800. But I don't regret spending any of the money. She is now like new. It does look like you will have some interior plastic issues unless you like that wood grain overlay. There are no new interior plastics available as far as I know in the US. You will need to find used ones and they are hard to find. So the hardest part I think you'll have is restoring the interior. The body damage looks quite extensive to me. I applaud you for wanting to bring her back to life. Good luck.
11-22-11, 09:18 AM
#20
I was planning on painting most of the interior to black. But I hope you are wrong about the interior pieces not being available anymore. I will check that today. I'd rather restore a car and have it exactly how I want it than buy someone else's. Plus I love doing it and I'm saving a car.
11-22-11, 09:22 AM
#21
As one who has just finished rebuilding my car from the ground up I can tell you 15K will easily be spent. I've owned my car since Sept of 1992 so I know every issue the car has ever had. Mine started with the clearcoat peeling and since I wanted her like new the saga began. The term new engine means different things, but mine was all new I bought every part to build the engine from Mazda. Fortunately I have dealt with this Mazda dealer for the last 19 years and got terrific prices. The prices for all RX7 parts (FD) have significantly increased over the last 4 years. New housings alone are close to 800. But I don't regret spending any of the money. She is now like new. It does look like you will have some interior plastic issues unless you like that wood grain overlay. There are no new interior plastics available as far as I know in the US. You will need to find used ones and they are hard to find. So the hardest part I think you'll have is restoring the interior. The body damage looks quite extensive to me. I applaud you for wanting to bring her back to life. Good luck.
11-22-11, 09:31 AM
#25
If you already have an engine to supply to the builder a proper rebuild will cost you $2.5k to $4.5k. If you don't have a core then add another $1000. You can buy a brand new engine for less than $5k. The price may decrease further if you have a core to exchange.
If you buy a brand new engine you will not get a port job, you will not get a fancy paint job (on housings) you will not get some parts upgraded with better aftermarket versions (nothing major imo) etc.
The price difference between rebuilds is mainly caused by parts used in the rebuild (and the condition of your engine), so research carefully beforehand and decide what specific parts/brand you want the rebuilder to use in your rebuild. The use of oem vs aftermarket parts will affect the total cost.
We have many honest and trustworthy rotary builders in this community so get in touch with them but one thing I would like to emphasise is that you have to research about rebuilds before getting in touch with an engine builder because from my experience they all swear by different apex seals, gaskets, rings, port sizes etc. It is important to know what you want before talking to an engine builder.
This may help:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...engine+rebuild
If you buy a brand new engine you will not get a port job, you will not get a fancy paint job (on housings)
you will not get some parts upgraded with better aftermarket versions (nothing major imo) etc. The price difference between rebuilds is mainly caused by parts used in the rebuild (and the condition of your engine), so research carefully beforehand and decide what specific parts/brand you want the rebuilder to use in your rebuild. The use of oem vs aftermarket parts will affect the total cost.
We have many honest and trustworthy rotary builders in this community so get in touch with them but one thing I would like to emphasise is that you have to research about rebuilds before getting in touch with an engine builder because from my experience they all swear by different apex seals, gaskets, rings, port sizes etc. It is important to know what you want before talking to an engine builder.
This may help:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...engine+rebuild