G'day All.

I've been reading heaps of threads on this forum everyday lately, especially since I've never owned a rotary and I'm trying to do as much homework as I can before the car arrives.

I'll keep this short because I'm sure you don't wanna read an essay, but basically I am a complete novice to anything mechanical but I've already learnt a hellova lot from this site.

I have bought a Series VIII 2000 Mazda RX7 which is arriving from Japan (to Australia) in one week (yay!!!). It's completely stock but I've already bought a Blitz FMIC, APEXI Catback Zorst, Hks pod filters and a turbosmart boost controller ready to put on there.

What I wanna know is if someone could briefly explain how/where the boost controller goes. This Is the one I bought , It has been raved about for it's performance for such an inexpensive unit. Ihave been told (from someone with very little rotary knowledge) that the boost lines from each actuator (forgive my ignorance) have to join together before it can plug onto the boost controller.

IS THIS TRUE? or can someone give me a better explanation.

Thanks I appreciate any help.

Ryan

 

Buy a upgraded computer or your motor will explode.

 

search for how the seq turbo control sytem works...study diagrams and learn the car before you start modding it.

 

That controller is what we refer to here as a manual boost controller (MBC). If you only bought one (which is all you need for mild boost adjustments), install it on the wastegate and do not touch the precontrol lines.

Lupe is right about blowing your motor - for now you will need this controller to keep the boost at the stock levels. DO NOT increase the boost until 1) you know the car better 2) you have proper fuel upgrades, and 3) you have an ECU tuned to handle it. Some cars can simply dial up the boost and go. This one won't.

Dave

 

I know this is a stupid question but is that true for a 2000 rx-7? Don't they already run on 12psi? Maybe their stock ecu can handle a little more, maybe not. To be safe though you will need an engine management computer of some kind. Power FC is the most popular right now.

 

thanks heaps for the advice. is it still ok to put the exhaust, front mount and pod filters on without putting on the boost controller?

 

it doesn't matter if you install your boost controller or not. If you are going to run those mods you've listed above on your car with stock ecu, you will be taking a risk of blowing your motor. Spend alittle more and go buy a ecu and have it tuned.

 

NOT!

How long are people going to keep passing on this myth? The stock ecu can handle all of the bolt-ons at stock boost. For 2000 FDs, this is 11 psi.

 

hEY dude....I also have a Version 5 2000 model FD...

Dont even bother getting a manual boost controller. save the money and invest on a PFC, this is the best mod by far I have on my FD. You can raise the boost with this, but I chose to have my boost electronically controlled by a 5th gen HKS EVC. The PFC corrected and tuned everything in my un-tuned engine, idle is much better.....my boost cut is now 110kpa in case of any boost spike during cold times but usually runs 106kpa. Anything above this 110kps level the HKS EVC automatically adjusts the boost to standard to prevent any engine / turbo damage.

 

im not tryin to rob this post but...does it seem like the stock ecu is already maxed out? from what i have been readin on the forums when pple put on those mods others are tellin them to buy an aftermarket tunable ecu, am i close?

 

Oh yeh, if you havent already bought your Catback, save up for a full 3 1/2 inch SMB exhaust. I currently have a 5zigen 3inch catback, I will now need to upgrade to a full 3 1/2inch system from turbo because its currently restricted to the standard 2.5inch with the boost im running. With the 3.5inch upgrade I should achieve another 15-20 rwkw's.

 

Rynberg is right....
11psi is 11psi (not getting technical) and it doesn't matter if you have every bolt on imaginable but are running the stock ecu...As long as you don't over boost the stock ecu will be ok ...but by upgrading you will gain greater control.

 

Only if your boost is still running at stock levels without spikes.

A PFC is not much better than stock for controlling spikes, so if you see spiking a PFC is not the answer.

Dave

 

IMHO, 3.5" exhaust is ridiculous for a nearly stock car. Even heavily modded FDs do just fine on 3".

To expand on the previous discussion of boost, a 3.5" exhaust is more likely to create boost spikes and require special boost control.

Dave

 

rynberg, You are right. But I mean to say is that, by installing those mods that he have mentioned may increase the boost level ,therefore buying an aftermarket ecu and have it tuned would be a smart thing to do.

 

Thanks heaps, You've saved me from making a costly mistake. I reckon I'll just bite the bullet and save up for an aftermarket ecu. But it's good to know things should be ok with the above mentioned mods until then.

 

Yep, just watch your boost level with every mod/change you make.

Dave

 

Sorry to sound so ignorant, but how do I monitor my boost after every mod? with a boost gauge? If so, what if the boost goes over 11psi (the stock ecu level), get an aftermarket ecu I guess.???

I do know that this would be a very good solution, but I could only just afford the car and won't have the cash anytime soon for an aftermarket ecu.

I have the option right now to choose whether to get (a) tein drift spec coilovers (which is what i have initially decided on) or (b) I could use that money for a powerfc. The main reason i opted for (a) because I wanted good corner sliding around the streets. Also there is apparently only 1 or 2 people (at the most) in Perth, Western Australia who can tune a powerfc with a rotary.

Can someone throw out some opinions on the stock suspension/handling setup and if it's any good for throwing it around a corner now and then.