Greetings. I owned an 89 Vert but sold it for a more 'reasonable' car. I miss my RX7 so I have decided to purchase a 3rd gen. I have seen RX7s for sale with performance modifications done to get 400hp & 1 RX7 even claimed 500hp. I have 3 quesitons about this.

1. Are RX7s capable of attaining 400-500hp with performance/engine mods and still be reliable enough to use on a regular basis (not daily driver, but I would want to show of my new RX7 often).

2. Are the 3rd Gens capable of putting out even more than 500 horses with reasonable mods, while still keeping the car reliable enough to drive? Reasonable mods means no extremely expensive parts (such as putting a Lamborghini v12 in).

3. How much HP is ideal? I want a really sporty quick car.

I know the more mods & the higher HP generally reduces reliability. & the more mods, the more expensive. I am just looking at how realistic my ideas are before I buy a RX7.

Thanks

 

Just a heads up... someone will tell you "similar discussions have been had" and to "use the search feature" before you get an answer for your questions.

 

my friend had some bolt-ons and a pfc and he was pushin 400+ intake mid/down pipe, exhaust pulley, intercooler with teh lil things and advance tuning. that car hit low 12's

 

On a 3rd gen? not likely.

 

I've tried searching... but didn't have much luck... if you have the link to a previous discussion, please post.

My apoligies to administrators if this is a highly repeated topic.

 

No need to apologize, I was just giving you a little warning because there are trolls that lurk with nothing better to do than jump on you for not using the search. But since it's "out there" they will probably stay under their bridges.

 

The more horsepower you make the faster your engine is going to die, mainly because you'll probably beat the crap out of it more. I think high 300's is the most streetable you can have because that should put you in the high 11's (which is stupid fast) but 350 would be good for me.

 

Reasonable is not a well defined term. Everyone has a different goal, different opinion of what reliable is etc.

IMHO reasonable include keeping a cat for a street car, many disagree, like I said it is an opinion.

I modded my car to keep it as reliable as possible while reducing restrictions in the intake and exhaust to get more power without cranking up the boost. DP, CB, intake, IC with a chipped ECU running 10psi will get you 250-260 rwhp. Those mods, running stock boost made for a very reliable 300 hp (@ crank) car.

Other things added to optimize the car for my type of driving were ACT clutch, lightweight flywheel, 4.33 gears, springs, shocks, wider wheels, etc, etc.

A fun to drive car is much more than big power. A 400 hp car with stock suspension, brakes, etc isn't going to be fun to drive.

 

To clarify, when I say "reasonable price" I mean non-exotic parts... like installing a $10,000 air filter to add 1 hp (I know that's not a real upgrade... its an exaggerated example). Or installing a whole new engine from Ferrari.

 

Still poorly defined. Buying new parts let me summarize how much $$ you can drop buying HP. If you buy used figure roughly 50% off these prices.

Radiator $400
ACT clutch $400
ACT flywheel $350
IC $1000-1500
DP $200
CB $400
Shocks $500+
Springs $250+
ECU upgrade $1000 (PFC)
Ignition upgrade $250
Wheels and tires $1500 to sky is the limit.
Brake pads $100



Get it? No tune up or maintenence parts in there either! Some prices may be off a little but it is a good rough estimate

 

Okay, I am wanting to purchase a pre-moddified RX7. What mods are included will obviously vary greatly. I am looking to buy something where I could get 350-450hp.

I basically want to see if getting a pre-modded car that reports 350-450 hp is something that could still be used on a regular basis (not to commute, but just for fun).

 

450 hp is well beyond reliable. 350 hp (rwhp?) isn't really reliable either IMHO. Your talking about a car that originally put out 255 hp (crank), 350 hp at the wheels is 410 hp at the crank. That is 60% more power than stock.

300-320 rwhp (350 hp crank) is pretty good HP and if you used the same mods listed above, remove the main cat and run 12psi you'll be pretty close.

 

Expect to pay for it, but it can be done. Just not the way your used to seeing everyone on here do it. 450hp is a heavily modified car.

 

What do you mean... "Just not the way your used to seeing everyone on here do it"?

 

did he "bolt on" a large single turbo?

 

Question: Are you really serious about modding a 7 to lay down 400-500 to the wheel? I noticed you said you owned a '89 N/A. Have you even felt how fast a stock FD is? My car is somewhat lightly modded and I don't feel I need any more power. If I crank the boost up to 12 or so, the car is already "**** your pant retarded fast".

How much power do you need? These cars are 600-700 pounds lighter than many other sports/sporty/touring cars out there, therefore need less horsepower attain the same hp/weight ratio.


IMO unless you're a serious drag/street racer, there's no need to go beyond intake, DP, exhaust, IC, and ecu.

You want a fast sports car. The terms "really sporty quick" should be reserved for hondas and acuras....

 

im going to daily drive a 450rwp car...we will see how reliable it is. Im not going to be the **** outta it. take it to the track a few time, and the occasional viper but mainly for highway curising to school and back.

 

there is no such thing as a 450hp daily driver.

holy ****...

 

Exactly that. Shortcut after shortcut, blown motor, blown motor, blown motor. How many "wheres the CHEAPEST place" to do this thread have you seen. Or "where can I find a used this" Your ability to make a quality product will always be based on the quality of materials used. Simple, or simply put, **** in **** out.

 

EXACTLY. I have spared no expense and have bought nothing used exept a single turbo that was barley used. i drive my car daily to and from work which is a 50 mile commute everyday. when i install all of the mods ive got, ill let you know how reliable my car is.

A REBUILT 3MM SEAL STREETPORTED MOTOR WITH 20,640 MILES ON IT.

UPGRADED PULLIES+POWER PULLY.
LIGHTNED FLYWHEEL.
PETTIT 3 IN. CATBACK EXHAUST.
EDELBROCK HIGH FLOW CAT.
BLITZ INTAKES.
H&R SPORT SPRINGS.
TOKICKO ILLUMINA 5 WAY ADJUSTABLE STRUTS
RAYS 18" BRONZE 3E37A WHEELS W/ BRIDGESTONE S-03 TIRES, 255/40 REAR AND 235/40 FRONT.
PETTIT DOWN PIPE
FULL OEM 99 SPEC FRONT BUMPER WITH OEM LIGHTS.
(NOT FIBERGLASS CRAP BUT THE REAL MAZDA DEAL)

IVE ALSO PURCHASED EVERYTHING FOR A FULL SINGLE TURBO UPGRADE. IT JUST HAS TO BE INSTALLED.

EVERYTHING AS FOLLOWS:

XS ENGINEERING TO4S TURBO/ GREDDY MANIFOLD+HKS 60MM WASTEGATE

TURBONETICS / SPEARCO CUSTOM FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER.

1600CC SECONDARY INJECTORS/850 PRIMARY.

-6 STEEL BRAIDED HOSES WITH FITTINGS.

FUEL RAIL

APEX i POWER FC + COMMANDER

HKS SUPER SEQUENTIAL BLOWOFF VALVE.

98 SUPRA TT FUEL PUMP

FUEL PREASURE REGULATOR W/ LIQUID FILLED PREASSURE GAUGE.

 

For a fun to drive you really dont need anything above 325whp becouse after that its a hasle to control the car even with 265+ tires in the back mine is stock and if Im not carefull the rear end will come chasing the front when coming out of the turn from a stop . I had a chance to ride in a 950whp 3 rotor FD that was way to dam much it was like going and working out becouse it is hard to drive every time you step on it it would go sideways.
I recomend for now just leave the car stock and drive it for about a year or so get used to it then modify it becouse you just dont have any idea how fast those things are until you have driven one.

 

I have nearly all the bolt-ons, with stock turbos and stock ports. My car has been very reliable and very drivable thus far. The PFC helps the drivability immensely.