how much boost is too much boost on stock ecu
Originally posted by mr_jonboy
So from your data, the stock setup is 10:1 A:F ratio, correct? Isn't that a little rich from what it could handle. I mean from the factory they always set them up rich to be conservative. Can they not handle in the area's of around 14:1 and still be ok. My buddy tuned his S2000 from the factory 8-9:1 to around 13-14-1 and got 10 hp which is a huge gain for that car, plus he saves gas. can the rotary not handle those A:F numbers? Good data BTW.
So from your data, the stock setup is 10:1 A:F ratio, correct? Isn't that a little rich from what it could handle. I mean from the factory they always set them up rich to be conservative. Can they not handle in the area's of around 14:1 and still be ok. My buddy tuned his S2000 from the factory 8-9:1 to around 13-14-1 and got 10 hp which is a huge gain for that car, plus he saves gas. can the rotary not handle those A:F numbers? Good data BTW.
Matt
93 SSM touring
i just loooked at wades data he has on the site
jonboy, make sure youre noticing things in the relevant mods like +10psi of fuel pressure.....that makes a big difference in the a/f ratios.
as far as im concerned i think a $500 investment in something like the pettit or g-force unlimited is a necessary mod at this point for sunnyxwala. even if he doesnt turn up the boost, with mods like intake, downpipe, and catback its using MORE fuel so he could already be leaning out at 10psi if other things like the fuel filter or pressure regulator isnt operating up to snuff.
a good pillow to rest your head (and wallet) on is an upgraded ecu so you have the extra fuel and different timing maps there. its MUCH cheaper than a new engine and the car will run much stronger.
i have used and definitely recommend the g-force unlimited and the power FC for a mildly to moderately modified car.
this is info on another car - not yours. you dont know what may or may not be working correctly as far as the fuel system on your car. i would NOT chance it.
word to the wise....play it safe and i think youll be happier in the end
-Nic
jonboy, make sure youre noticing things in the relevant mods like +10psi of fuel pressure.....that makes a big difference in the a/f ratios.
as far as im concerned i think a $500 investment in something like the pettit or g-force unlimited is a necessary mod at this point for sunnyxwala. even if he doesnt turn up the boost, with mods like intake, downpipe, and catback its using MORE fuel so he could already be leaning out at 10psi if other things like the fuel filter or pressure regulator isnt operating up to snuff.
a good pillow to rest your head (and wallet) on is an upgraded ecu so you have the extra fuel and different timing maps there. its MUCH cheaper than a new engine and the car will run much stronger.
i have used and definitely recommend the g-force unlimited and the power FC for a mildly to moderately modified car.
this is info on another car - not yours. you dont know what may or may not be working correctly as far as the fuel system on your car. i would NOT chance it.
word to the wise....play it safe and i think youll be happier in the end
-Nic
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From: uk
Originally posted by artguy
guy you are gonna blow that thing up arent you?
Ive been thru two motors...three sets of turbos....dont waste your money. if you dont park that car and get it set up right you will be out a car and have a five - ten thousand dollar bill staring you in your teary face. odds are you are already cooking the seals. dont risk it anymore. simply put it down for a while and get it set up right...listen to these guys. it will be down a lot longer if you crap your apex seals out the tailpipe...or start burning the antifreeze from heat damage to your side seals.
if you have to drive it...get a boost guage and dont push it past stock levels...but that will be hard to do.
be careful...
good luck
jason
guy you are gonna blow that thing up arent you?
Ive been thru two motors...three sets of turbos....dont waste your money. if you dont park that car and get it set up right you will be out a car and have a five - ten thousand dollar bill staring you in your teary face. odds are you are already cooking the seals. dont risk it anymore. simply put it down for a while and get it set up right...listen to these guys. it will be down a lot longer if you crap your apex seals out the tailpipe...or start burning the antifreeze from heat damage to your side seals.
if you have to drive it...get a boost guage and dont push it past stock levels...but that will be hard to do.
be careful...
good luck
jason
I think artguy spelled out the best advise! Dont do it! It is making me sick just reading the purposed action! (or action taken) BOY O BOY! You must be paid buy Madza to break Engines or somert! DONT DO IT! GET AN ECU, PDQ! And then you have to look @ seconday injectors plus pump upgrade!
Hope this helps
Regards...
Originally posted by mr_jonboy
So with that being said and the table of data listed above, you can take the thing above 10.7 psi. The table is showing 10.7 psi at 8000 rpm is still making 10:1 A:F ratio, right or wrong? If the thing can handle 11.5 or 12:1 and still not be "lean" than why not do it, thus getting more boost and saving gas in the process. Someone correct me if I am talking out of my @ss.
So with that being said and the table of data listed above, you can take the thing above 10.7 psi. The table is showing 10.7 psi at 8000 rpm is still making 10:1 A:F ratio, right or wrong? If the thing can handle 11.5 or 12:1 and still not be "lean" than why not do it, thus getting more boost and saving gas in the process. Someone correct me if I am talking out of my @ss.
The table above has nothing to do with a/f ratio, it lists the boost amount that will generate fuel CUT. If you go above 10.7 psi at 7000 rpm, the ecu WILL cut off fuel and you WILL detonate your engine.
NO fuel CUT will NOT DETONATE your engine - it is there SPECIFICALLY to PREVENT DETONATION! - The ECU shuts off fuel to the rear rotor COMPLETLY so there is NO FUEL TO DETONATE! in the rear rotor. the lack of EXHAUST (From the non functional rear rotor) prevents further boosting from the turbos! PREVENTING DETONATION from OVERBOOST
Originally posted by mjw
If you tune for 14:1 at WOT you are positively insane, you would blow the crap out of most piston motors.. let a alone a 13B. And I seriously doubt that the S2000 runs 8-9:1 from the factory, it would be absolutely choking on fuel and run like ****. 14:1 works on most motors when you are cruising, like when you are going 65mph for a long period of time, it heats up the O2 sensor and cat real well and improves both gas mileage and emissions.. for WOT runs 12:1 would be my ceiling just to be safe.. 11:1 is probably even better unless you have a thick wallet. You will always make the most power right on the edge of running getting lean, but then you are on the edge of a lot of other expensive things when you do that.
Matt
93 SSM touring
If you tune for 14:1 at WOT you are positively insane, you would blow the crap out of most piston motors.. let a alone a 13B. And I seriously doubt that the S2000 runs 8-9:1 from the factory, it would be absolutely choking on fuel and run like ****. 14:1 works on most motors when you are cruising, like when you are going 65mph for a long period of time, it heats up the O2 sensor and cat real well and improves both gas mileage and emissions.. for WOT runs 12:1 would be my ceiling just to be safe.. 11:1 is probably even better unless you have a thick wallet. You will always make the most power right on the edge of running getting lean, but then you are on the edge of a lot of other expensive things when you do that.
Matt
93 SSM touring
By the way, not to get off the rotary, but the S2000 is tuned from the factory to run around 9:1 after VTEC. My buddy bought a V-AFC and tuned it to run 13-14:1. If you don't believe me, and you give a **** about this look here:
hp & torque
A:F
Both runs (red and blue) are after some tuning. He didn't have the stock one saved.
Originally posted by mr_jonboy
By the way, not to get off the rotary, but the S2000 is tuned from the factory to run around 9:1 after VTEC. My buddy bought a V-AFC and tuned it to run 13-14:1. If you don't believe me, and you give a **** about this look here:
By the way, not to get off the rotary, but the S2000 is tuned from the factory to run around 9:1 after VTEC. My buddy bought a V-AFC and tuned it to run 13-14:1. If you don't believe me, and you give a **** about this look here:
Matt
93 SSM touring
Originally posted by mr_jonboy
I understand what you are all saying. I want an aftermarket ECU just as bad as the next guy. I dont' have one currently but I dont' run over 10 psi of boost either. When I first bought the car, b4 the boost controller, it was running around 12 psi. It never detonated though. This fuel cut sounds like to me is set to cut in way before detonation, which it should be. Therefore anything after 10.7 psi on a stock ecu at 8000 rpm is going to be running leaner than 10:1 but how much more. Suganuma says running 11.5-12:1 is fine on a rotary. I personally don't know. Regardless, I am not running this and I am not for sure I ever would but I am just curious on correct numbers for boost on the stock ecu. Because everyone says don't do it but there is hardly ever any data to show what was actually the problem that blew someone's motor. Were they running 11 psi on a stock ecu or were they running 18 psi on a stock ecu.
By the way, not to get off the rotary, but the S2000 is tuned from the factory to run around 9:1 after VTEC. My buddy bought a V-AFC and tuned it to run 13-14:1. If you don't believe me, and you give a **** about this look here:
hp & torque
A:F
Both runs (red and blue) are after some tuning. He didn't have the stock one saved.
I understand what you are all saying. I want an aftermarket ECU just as bad as the next guy. I dont' have one currently but I dont' run over 10 psi of boost either. When I first bought the car, b4 the boost controller, it was running around 12 psi. It never detonated though. This fuel cut sounds like to me is set to cut in way before detonation, which it should be. Therefore anything after 10.7 psi on a stock ecu at 8000 rpm is going to be running leaner than 10:1 but how much more. Suganuma says running 11.5-12:1 is fine on a rotary. I personally don't know. Regardless, I am not running this and I am not for sure I ever would but I am just curious on correct numbers for boost on the stock ecu. Because everyone says don't do it but there is hardly ever any data to show what was actually the problem that blew someone's motor. Were they running 11 psi on a stock ecu or were they running 18 psi on a stock ecu.
By the way, not to get off the rotary, but the S2000 is tuned from the factory to run around 9:1 after VTEC. My buddy bought a V-AFC and tuned it to run 13-14:1. If you don't believe me, and you give a **** about this look here:
hp & torque
A:F
Both runs (red and blue) are after some tuning. He didn't have the stock one saved.
i would probably not go past 11.5 if tuning it myself unless i had proven data saying that it was ok to do so and push it to 12.
i dont have much experience with tuning though - youre better off searching in the single turbo section to see what all of them are running. most of them do their own tuning.
theyll probably say around the same thing.
just quit being ignorant and taking such a risk and get an upgraded ECU
if you dont have the funds.....dont drive it unless youre lowering the boost. i might even push it down to 7.5 just for peace of mind when doing WOT runs.
Thread Starter
"I used to have one"
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From: dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS
ok guys, thanks for the advice, i would love to take all of it but the 7 is my daily driver and i work about 35 miles from my house. i need a car. but i have been very carefull driving the car. i havent pushed it past 4000 rpms since i put the intake on there, and i let it climb up there very slowly...trust me i DONT want to blow my motor...will this be ok untill i get a ecu or lower the boos level's via a pill??
thanks again for you help
thanks again for you help
Thread Starter
"I used to have one"
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From: dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS
damn lady i'm working on it!!! i have work and school and too much **** right now, and i didnt notice the extra extra boost till yesterday on my way to work, anywaysi plan on hooking up the boost guage tommorow after class, you happy??
Originally posted by sunnyxwala
damn lady i'm working on it!!! i have work and school and too much **** right now, and i didnt notice the extra extra boost till yesterday on my way to work, anywaysi plan on hooking up the boost guage tommorow after class, you happy??
damn lady i'm working on it!!! i have work and school and too much **** right now, and i didnt notice the extra extra boost till yesterday on my way to work, anywaysi plan on hooking up the boost guage tommorow after class, you happy??
Originally posted by maxpesce
NO fuel CUT will NOT DETONATE your engine - it is there SPECIFICALLY to PREVENT DETONATION! - The ECU shuts off fuel to the rear rotor COMPLETLY so there is NO FUEL TO DETONATE! in the rear rotor. the lack of EXHAUST (From the non functional rear rotor) prevents further boosting from the turbos! PREVENTING DETONATION from OVERBOOST
NO fuel CUT will NOT DETONATE your engine - it is there SPECIFICALLY to PREVENT DETONATION! - The ECU shuts off fuel to the rear rotor COMPLETLY so there is NO FUEL TO DETONATE! in the rear rotor. the lack of EXHAUST (From the non functional rear rotor) prevents further boosting from the turbos! PREVENTING DETONATION from OVERBOOST
Originally posted by sunnyxwala
lol, thanks...did u come out to mcarthur last sat?
lol, thanks...did u come out to mcarthur last sat?
Thread Starter
"I used to have one"
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From: dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS
lol, i was there but i got there around 12, i was at a bday party...bbut there was still alot of people there...i did meet kasandra tand mike, and nick
Thread Starter
"I used to have one"
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From: dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS
let me quote my self,
will this work for the time being
Originally posted by sunnyxwala
...i have been very carefull driving the car. i havent pushed it past 4000 rpms since i put the intake on there, and i let it climb up there very slowly...trust me i DONT want to blow my motor...will this be ok untill i get a ecu or lower the boos level's via a pill??
...i have been very carefull driving the car. i havent pushed it past 4000 rpms since i put the intake on there, and i let it climb up there very slowly...trust me i DONT want to blow my motor...will this be ok untill i get a ecu or lower the boos level's via a pill??
nick???? hmmm if you dont mind me asking, what is your real name? Diana told me about a guy that had a silver FD, wonder if that was you. You didn't meet steve or anybody else??? will you be there next weekend?
musta been another Nic cause i was out of town. put on the boost gauge and boost controller....it takes maybe 10 minutes and only that long just b/c you have to find a power source. if you dont care about lights on the gauge you can cut that time down.
if you dont do some WOT runs every now and then you will get carbon buildup on the rotor which will also cause it to run like ****.
put the gauge on so you can see where your boost is at and then turn it down.....WAY down. even at stock boost levels you are pushing the fuel maps i would think b/c of the better flow of intake and exhaust gases and thereby the need for more fuel.
if you dont do some WOT runs every now and then you will get carbon buildup on the rotor which will also cause it to run like ****.
put the gauge on so you can see where your boost is at and then turn it down.....WAY down. even at stock boost levels you are pushing the fuel maps i would think b/c of the better flow of intake and exhaust gases and thereby the need for more fuel.
Thread Starter
"I used to have one"
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From: dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS dallasDALLAS
yah it was a nick that lives up in plano ..i think he is like 17 or something, and has a red r1
Originally posted by rynberg
Your statement would seem to indicate that overboosting your engine will do no harm then. Anytime boost exceeds the fuel cut parameter, fuel is cut and detonation is prevented. If this is true, why would getting a 14 psi spike at the crossover cause detonation with the stock ecu?
Your statement would seem to indicate that overboosting your engine will do no harm then. Anytime boost exceeds the fuel cut parameter, fuel is cut and detonation is prevented. If this is true, why would getting a 14 psi spike at the crossover cause detonation with the stock ecu?
Last edited by maxpesce; Feb 19, 2002 at 03:38 PM.
Just the STOCK ECU and my LEFT FOOT, I generally get a 11-8-11 boost pattern unless it COLD the it will run 12-9-12 anc can sometimes (very rare) hit the boost fuel cut.
MARIAH did all my engine mod setups and JIM has no reservations about my running my mods on the stock ecu at 10-12psi boost. The may have installed larger PILLS to controll the boost pattern when they setup my engine.
MARIAH did all my engine mod setups and JIM has no reservations about my running my mods on the stock ecu at 10-12psi boost. The may have installed larger PILLS to controll the boost pattern when they setup my engine.
Last edited by maxpesce; Feb 19, 2002 at 04:15 PM.


