I like to spend about 3k into my bone stock 94 FD w/52K miles...how many hp could be bought for that amt of money.

Thanks.

 

lets see 1k for a pfc
cb,dp, mp (high flow) or main cat if you will - 800 roughly
intake - 300 roughly

the rest should go to reliability mods and maintenance if you havent already done it..

or get a smic with the rest

 

opps, sorry, i say thats about 280-290 hp after everything..stock boost and whatnot

 

Prices can be cheaper but are representative:

Apexi PFC -- $1100
downpipe -- $300
exhaust -- $500
USED SMIC and intake -- $700
tuning -- $3-400

Run 13 psi, you'll make a little over 300 rwhp

Another $7-800 gets you a midpipe and upgraded fuel system capable of running 15 psi and putting down ~340-50 rwhp.

 

I would make sure that you have all your hoses and air seperator and what not up to date.

 

I echo all that was said above. Good choices.

on a sidenote, just a general question, with the installation of all the mods you mentioned above, does "reliability" go down? Meaning, if I had 2 cars, one with my mods (see sig), and one with a PFC, mp, and intake added, will my reliability go down? If not, I may consider doing this...

 

FIRST, reliability mods:
Downpipe: $100-300, 1-3hr labor
AST/Elimination: $50-150, 1hr labor
Fuel Filter: $50, 1.5hr labor
Hose job and FPD replacement: $250-400, 3-6hr labor
Coolant hose replacement: $150, 4hr labor
Spark Plugs/Wires: $75-100, 1hr labor
Boost and water temp gauges: $80-500, 2hr labor
Tranny and Diff oil: $50, 1hr labor
Aluminum radiator: $300-500, 2hr labor

Power mods:
Cat-back $300-600, 1hr labor
Intake $150-500, 1 hr labor
High flow cat or Midpipe, $100-550, 1 hr labor
SMIC, $300-700, 1-2hr labor
PFC: $750-1100, 2hr labor (?)
PFC Tuning: 1-2hr labor at $150/hr

I'm estimating labor based on doing them myself or knowing what's involved and how quickly a garage MIGHT do it. Parts costs can go up if you need to replace other parts (solenoids, fuel injector cleaning/o-rings, exhaust studs, wastegate enlargement, etc)

I strongly encourage you to research these mods and modding in general (good info in the newbie sticky thread) - the info posted here is not sufficient to just start buying and bolting parts on. After the downpipe and cat-back, you need to watch your boost levels until you get the PFC installed.

Dave

 

Assuming you're FDs have similar (and working) emissions, oil, and cooling systems, you will see "reliability" go down anytime horsepower goes up. In general - it's because you're producing more power in the same volume, the engine chambers, seals, etc are taking greater mechanical load and heat production. Even if you upgrade the oil and coolant system, there are always some critical elements which won't last as long. That's the way an ordinary person would view this car's "reliability issues".

But that's reliability defined as the life of components - if you define reliability like most experienced FD owners, reliable means no breakdowns before the expected life of the component. And the expected life of an engine is not forever, and usually gets shorter the more power you make. By doing more preventative maintenance and paying closer attention to tuning, gauges, and warning signs, it will be unlikely to break down unexpectedly.

It seems to me there is a point in power level where it becomes impossible to avoid breakdowns since so many components (structural especially) are pushed to their working limits. Most owners in this stage simply replace anything that breaks with the upgraded version on an as-needed basis. So upgraded PPFs, axles, diffs, transmissions, clutches, etc are often too costly to change out in a preventative manner, or it's not possible to know when they're about to break. I think it's safe to say these cars are not driven regularly because they're not comfortable, practical, or economical, so the street reliability isn't a big problem.

Dave

 

depends on what route you wanna take and what mods your prefer. you could go quite far for $3k some cheaper reliabilty mods...

Downpipe: < $100
AST Elimination: < $20 (ebay)
Fuel Filter: a must if not done recently
Hose job: (only if your having boost issues)
Spark Plugs/Wires: $75
Boost gauge/pod $60
Tranny and Diff oil: $50 redlines great stuff
stock replacement alum. radiator: $200

 

You may want to add a radiator on there also, just to finish the job

 

Well stated, Dave... I particularly like how you explained "reliability" as no breakdowns before the expected life of a component. With more power comes more wear, I guess. I am content with my current "stock" setup, with basic reliability mods. Thankfully, I haven't gotten bitten by the horespower bug... just yet.

 

Great replies...thanks everyone.

It will be so much more fun to drive a 300 hp FD than a 600 hp Mustang (definitely have outgrown the mustang stuff)

I better call Gotham Racing for an appointment .

 

do a compression test and pressure test the cooling system before spending any money.

 

used pettit ecu-350 shipped
used dpipe-125 shipped
used midpipe-100 shipped
used catback-300 shipped
used intake apex intakes-100 shipped
Used smic-750 shipped
MBC-35 shipped
Used Fuel Pump-100 shipped

12lbs of boost should net right around 300rwhp pretty reliability. Plenty of money left for the reliability mods and some good tires to help with the extra hp.

Setup should be good for some mid 12s

Good luck.

David Jerome

 

It'll get you the stock 255hp. About $1500 in reliability mods and maintenance, and $1500 in anticipated repair costs in the near future The more you spend on mods, the more you'll spend on maintaining those mods... it just so happens that there's no clearly posted pricetag on the hidden associated costs w/ 'em. Good luck!

 

255 HP: $500 for DP, AST, vac job, cooling system tune-up, fuel filter, boost gauge, etc, and $2500 to keep in the bank for a new engine when yours pops.

 

I don't know about that one....Maybe a 600 hp FD would be more fun.

 

I understand what he means about the mustang. Fast with lots of tourque, just no class or style. Plus the ride like buggies on wooden wheels. I've owned one before my 7. the seven has WAAAY more to offer.

 

and every freaking teenager has one...

wanna race...wanna race...

Tired of that chits

 

^^well that shouldnt bother anyone

if you really love the car, that all that matters..

why sell a car you love just because you are tired of the people you encounter?

i get some negative comments about my car too, sometimes i get people saying its a bitch car and only girls drive it..i have a gay car cause its red..it looks stupid cause its just another car with an exhaust, i need new wheels, its not a real car etc etc..

but in the end, i still love it cause i get more complements than insults so im happy..