Just a bit of fun here guys, im not going to run it like this (well not forever, wont drive it hard like this) but:

Downpipe and de-cat
stock ports
air pump removed and blanked off
large stillway SMIC (needs battery relocation)

How long would you give it until with stock ECU?

 

not long without ported wastegate

 

Probably one good WOT run... As much trouble as you went through to rebuild your engine, why take a chance of destroying it?

 

I dont really plan to. To be honest, i think my car has some mods that i dont know about - it stinks pig rich at idle, and runs rich all through the rev range. The guy i bought the car off offered me a trust front mount intercooler and straight through pipe for the car (it was one piece, downpipe to tail pipe, no cats) for an extra price. I never thought to ask him if this stuff was fitted to the car before, but if it was then it makes sense.

The plan is to fit the stuff, take it to a friends garage without boosting (he has a rolling road and is good at mapping cars) get it on the rollers and look at the A/f ratios with the IC and exhaust fitted... Just keep a close eye until im sure everything looks ok - if it starts to even remotely lean or knock then its PFC time.

Or alternatively i could just open up my ECU i suppose! Its deffo not an Apexi...Looks standard on the outside, havent noticed any stickers on it but havent looked.

 

You might be ok keeping the stock muffler, but if you go straight through thats just asking for trouble

 

*Looking into crystal ball* I see a boost controller in your immediate future.

 

It could be a remapped ECU... although it's not unusual for an FD to run rich.

 

personally after running a stock ecu with a fmic, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust (high flow cat and bullet muffler) for 20k miles, ive been fine...
i would run a bigger fuel pump to start out, and then start saving for a ems upgrade, but it wont blow, ive ran it for 20,000 miles and its fine. im am getting about an 11.1-11.5 a/r

 

Bobfish,

Just replying to your first post in this thread. A long as you stay withing 10 psi you can bank that your engine will last a long time if properly taken cared of.

Now if you think that you have other mods that are causing you to be pig rich (piggyback ECU) then you are in danger of carbon build up, and therefore premature failure. How long no one can answer that *but* the rotary is designed that during high revs and under normal conditions carbon buildup is removed. <---I got that from a mazda training video on the rotary engine that manthis once linked the forum to .

 

boost controllers are only for raising boost not lowering it, only wastegate porting or installing an external wastegate can cure boost creep. boost creep is anything over what the wastegate spring and port are rated to handle.


the main cat is the main restriction in your car, keeping that you should still be at a safe level.

 

ok.............

 

^^^^

Exhaust gasses go to the turbo. Once the engine is making too enough exhaust gasses to push the turbos to 10 psi of boost, then the wastegate diverts the rest of the exhaust energy away from and around the turbos. when the engine is making too much exhaust energy for the wastegate to divert all of the extra away from the turbos, then it goes through the turbos, creating more boost. this type of extra boost CANNOT be cured with a boost controller. The ONLY way to control this type of overboosting is to increase the capabilities of the wastegate. Hence porting.

 

lord...another boost controller vs creep debate

 

with these engine, anything is possible. Just think of it like a jack-in-the-box. Keep spinning and spinning and it will go pop at any time.

 

bah nevermind

 

The wastegate springs are designed for 7psi. If you take the bleeder solenoids of the equation you can use a boost controller to lower boost anywhere from 10 to 7. This is what I'm doing. I have an intake, I/C, DP, catback with stock cat section and I run a 9-9-9 boost pattern just to be extra safe until I get fuel/ecu.

 

bling^

 

Can anyone vouch for this or how to do it? I can't think that it'd be possible without a ported wastegate...

 

yes. AS long as you don't creep you should be able to lower boost to 7 psi.

I used to be able to do that until I got my RB dual tip, now my car creeps to 11 psi.

 

What?
Maybe I misunderstood what you are saying but lowering the boost will only work the wastegate harder, since it now has to vent even more air to run at lower PSI. Also if your on sequentials how are you getting 9-9-9? Theres no transistion at all?

 

Well consider that by lowering the boost, you're lowering the power slightly and also lowering the amount of exhaust gasses produced. Somewhere in there is a critical threshold at which point the wastegate becomes the bottleneck and the "path of least resistance" is through the exhaust wheel, setting up a chain reaction of more boost -> more power/more exhaust -> more boost.. I have not reached that point yet with my mods and level of boost (remember I have a DP and CB but factory main cat).

As far as 9-9-9, that's just using a manual boost controller on both the wastegate and precontrol actuators with some amount of luck. The transisition is very very smooth, but of course when the second turbo comes online there's definately a kick in the pants. I still have a 3k hesitation very sporadically. Still running stock ECU.

 

Ah that makes sense. I have very similar mods including DP CB intake and the stock cat and Ive never had any sort of problems with creep, Im assuming you did?

And to answer this thread, dont put the midpipe on.

 

No problems yet, but it only takes one right I drive the car pretty hard at the track and I want to make sure that I don't do anything bad to it before I upgrade to a PFC and get it tuned a bit better.