How hot is too hot when at the track?
This may be misleading. I blew a completely stock engine shifting at 7k. There must be something non-stock about Peter's setup. Radiator? Oil coolers?
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
My set-up:
Ported motor/99 twins
open exhaust
99 replica bumper (larger openings)
Fluidyne rad/CWR dual 19-row coolers WELL DUCTED/SEALED (important)
No A/C to block radiator
Upgrade waterpump/underdrive pullies
80/20 distilled water/antifreeze
Don't drive in July/August in VA heat on track
My water temps rarely ever cap 99C. Airtemps are 50's and 60's... if I see 70, I chill out till it drops down.
Ported motor/99 twins
open exhaust
99 replica bumper (larger openings)
Fluidyne rad/CWR dual 19-row coolers WELL DUCTED/SEALED (important)
No A/C to block radiator
Upgrade waterpump/underdrive pullies
80/20 distilled water/antifreeze
Don't drive in July/August in VA heat on track
My water temps rarely ever cap 99C. Airtemps are 50's and 60's... if I see 70, I chill out till it drops down.
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
My set-up:
Ported motor/99 twins
open exhaust
99 replica bumper (larger openings)
Fluidyne rad/CWR dual 19-row coolers WELL DUCTED/SEALED (important)
No A/C to block radiator
Upgrade waterpump/underdrive pullies
80/20 distilled water/antifreeze
Don't drive in July/August in VA heat on track
My water temps rarely ever cap 99C. Airtemps are 50's and 60's... if I see 70, I chill out till it drops down.
Ported motor/99 twins
open exhaust
99 replica bumper (larger openings)
Fluidyne rad/CWR dual 19-row coolers WELL DUCTED/SEALED (important)
No A/C to block radiator
Upgrade waterpump/underdrive pullies
80/20 distilled water/antifreeze
Don't drive in July/August in VA heat on track
My water temps rarely ever cap 99C. Airtemps are 50's and 60's... if I see 70, I chill out till it drops down.
If that doesn't work, I'm starting to get the hang of pulling engines
The highest temps my FD reaches is about 104c on super hot 95+ degree track days after 20mins. For me 105c is the limit before i let off. On 80degree days water temps are in the mid 90c and mid 80c on cooler days.
Given that I have the rotary extreme vmount (ducted), re-medlly waterpump, no a/c, idler pulley and r1 dual oil coolers I dont see any other way of bringing my temps down anymore without aux injection or bigger oil coolers. A friends FD has an identical setup as mine but with an aftermarket dual oil coolers. I remember him having about 5-10 degree lower temps them me on hot track days.
Given that I have the rotary extreme vmount (ducted), re-medlly waterpump, no a/c, idler pulley and r1 dual oil coolers I dont see any other way of bringing my temps down anymore without aux injection or bigger oil coolers. A friends FD has an identical setup as mine but with an aftermarket dual oil coolers. I remember him having about 5-10 degree lower temps them me on hot track days.
The upgrade dual coolers help a lot. MOST important, so I'll repeat, really good air tight ducting to the rad and oil coolers will do more than most all the little stuff like phillies and water pumps.
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
The highest temps my FD reaches is about 104c on super hot 95+ degree track days after 20mins. For me 105c is the limit before i let off. On 80degree days water temps are in the mid 90c and mid 80c on cooler days.
Given that I have the rotary extreme vmount (ducted), re-medlly waterpump, no a/c, idler pulley and r1 dual oil coolers I dont see any other way of bringing my temps down anymore without aux injection or bigger oil coolers. A friends FD has an identical setup as mine but with an aftermarket dual oil coolers. I remember him having about 5-10 degree lower temps them me on hot track days.
Given that I have the rotary extreme vmount (ducted), re-medlly waterpump, no a/c, idler pulley and r1 dual oil coolers I dont see any other way of bringing my temps down anymore without aux injection or bigger oil coolers. A friends FD has an identical setup as mine but with an aftermarket dual oil coolers. I remember him having about 5-10 degree lower temps them me on hot track days.
As Pete mentioned; upgraded pulley's and water pumps etc... are band aids to the real bleeding which is a lack of airflow aimed at the coolers.
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Switched from pettit smic to m2 med which will help some but still won't be enough to go full throttle.
I know that doesn't answer your question, but a smaller ducted cooler will perform better than a larger unducted cooler (to an extent). The problem with the FD is that there isn't a lot of development still going on, especially in the race/track department so your options are fairly limited unless you go custom.
I've got the 19-row CWR kit (it was the only kit available at the time, and had gorgeous CF ducts for the OE bumper). The custom ducts I made fit those w/ the '99 bumper, which has significantly bigger openings.
If you're buying some, get the 25-row—there's sort of no reason not to. You're pretty much making custom ducts anyway since no off the shelf solution is really available.
The GTC bumper is a good choice (both from a cooling and aero standpoint) if you don't mind dealing with a super low fiberglass bumper.
If you're buying some, get the 25-row—there's sort of no reason not to. You're pretty much making custom ducts anyway since no off the shelf solution is really available.
The GTC bumper is a good choice (both from a cooling and aero standpoint) if you don't mind dealing with a super low fiberglass bumper.
Yep lots of info in that thread 
Several things I'd now add at this time:
go vmount or go home for the serious track guy there is no reason to mess with anything else. It's truly the best way to control both charge and water temps.
As far as turbos go it would appear the borg warner with built in wastegate, bov etc.... is likely our best option there.
The PFC is still the a good choice for ECU on a basic track car making around 350 HP but I keep hearing more and more good things about the aem
Trans and diff both need coolers.
Once all the above is done the FD should be ready for some hard track work.
Several things I'd now add at this time:
go vmount or go home for the serious track guy there is no reason to mess with anything else. It's truly the best way to control both charge and water temps.
As far as turbos go it would appear the borg warner with built in wastegate, bov etc.... is likely our best option there.
The PFC is still the a good choice for ECU on a basic track car making around 350 HP but I keep hearing more and more good things about the aem
Trans and diff both need coolers.
Once all the above is done the FD should be ready for some hard track work.
mmm ducting!!! I'm going to go get some of the aluminum exhaust tape and seal off the inside of the ducts to the actual coolers. At speed the aluminum duct work was actually bowing out as more air was forced through. I don't really agree with the whole fan hindering airfolow thing. Correct me when I'm wrong but it's when the car is moving at slow speeds when the majority of the problem starts... while moving at speed...with a proper set up having fans behind the oil coolers won't really make much of a difference....but putting around out on track or sitting on the grid waiting for the green light out onto the track is killer. I'm constantly looking for better ways to cool. I even have a bug sprayer I'm going to fill with water in cabin/passenger side area ill be plumbing to spray onto my oil coolers. Simply pump and manually hit the spray button.


I can't imagine this is a good thing. Unless this is a common practice to have the fans on when your driving above 30mph (since the majority of fans on cars from the factory can only simulate 30mph movement), they're going to cause more harm than good. With the fans moving, you're actually creating resistance to the air moving through them. Above 30mph, the air trying to go through the fans is moving faster than the cubic feet/minute the fans can actually provide.
It may seem kind of confusing, but if you're going above 30mph, the fans should be off.
I can understand having a switch to activate the fans while you're going slow in the pits or when the car is stationary. But when you're at speed, they shouldn't be on.
It may seem kind of confusing, but if you're going above 30mph, the fans should be off.
I can understand having a switch to activate the fans while you're going slow in the pits or when the car is stationary. But when you're at speed, they shouldn't be on.
my FD has this aftermarket cooler kit (anyone know which kit this is?) with MOCAL coolers, i'm not sure how many rows, and they cool EXCELLENTLY. it was 85*F outside at my track day last weekend and my oil temps didn't get over 200*F (keep in mind my sensor is AFTER the coolers at the oil filter pedestal, not in the pan). please note that this is real track experience, not just cruising on the interstate or doing some street race highway pulls. this is six (6) 20 minute sessions (two hours total) of full throttle / full brake / full Gs on a race track in 85*F+ weather.
you'll notice the later pictures include a new aeroquip socketless hose, as it had to replace one of the lines that broke due to rubbing on a piece of steel in the engine bay. (doh!)
this setup has been amazing, but i don't know what kit it is.
notice the nice ducts. this is the only reason these things cool so well with the stock bumper. the ducts wrap perfectly around the openings in the 93-95 bumper, and they seal perfectly on the coolers themselves.





you'll notice the later pictures include a new aeroquip socketless hose, as it had to replace one of the lines that broke due to rubbing on a piece of steel in the engine bay. (doh!)
this setup has been amazing, but i don't know what kit it is.
notice the nice ducts. this is the only reason these things cool so well with the stock bumper. the ducts wrap perfectly around the openings in the 93-95 bumper, and they seal perfectly on the coolers themselves.





My "real world" experience definitely differs from the advice you're giving. I have had countless times when cruising at 80 mph between Phoenix and LA on hot Summer days (ambient above 95F) where my AC fans running on HIGH have lowered my coolant temps versus running without them. My V-mount is huge and ducted about as perfectly as one can make it. I may be misunderstanding your post, but my reading on what you're saying is that "no fans running" above 30 mph provides the most optimal cooling.
mmm ducting!!! I'm going to go get some of the aluminum exhaust tape and seal off the inside of the ducts to the actual coolers. At speed the aluminum duct work was actually bowing out as more air was forced through. I don't really agree with the whole fan hindering airfolow thing. Correct me when I'm wrong but it's when the car is moving at slow speeds when the majority of the problem starts... while moving at speed...with a proper set up having fans behind the oil coolers won't really make much of a difference....but putting around out on track or sitting on the grid waiting for the green light out onto the track is killer. I'm constantly looking for better ways to cool. I even have a bug sprayer I'm going to fill with water in cabin/passenger side area ill be plumbing to spray onto my oil coolers. Simply pump and manually hit the spray button.




Looks like I now have to find room in my garage for a metal brake
I don't track the car, but I do canyon runs hard in the mountains up steep grades which taxes the engine much more so than any track would. I do this at full throttle as well (remember we have 30% less air at the altitudes). I ducted 19 row dual oil coolers on a burnout front bumper and ducted a FMIC/Radiator set up like the Feed rx7 did (left a small portion under the intercooler for cooling the radiator and ducted it all up. I run the stock hood. I also run the Remedy water pump with underdrive pullies (I don't have stock ones), and my temps are always in the 80's 90's C. I turn my fans on at 87C and the second at 90C. This is a single turbo set up.
Before this I had single unducted oil cooler, stock water pump, no ducting for radiator, same FMIC, and I couldn't drive the car in 90 degree weather up any of these hills at all (it would race over 100C and continue to go up unless I pulled over). That is when I first purchased the car with the stock twins. This also ran without a thermostat in the engine (it came that way). I installed a thermostat and added cooling parts and ducting.
Before this I had single unducted oil cooler, stock water pump, no ducting for radiator, same FMIC, and I couldn't drive the car in 90 degree weather up any of these hills at all (it would race over 100C and continue to go up unless I pulled over). That is when I first purchased the car with the stock twins. This also ran without a thermostat in the engine (it came that way). I installed a thermostat and added cooling parts and ducting.
mmm ducting!!! I'm going to go get some of the aluminum exhaust tape and seal off the inside of the ducts to the actual coolers. At speed the aluminum duct work was actually bowing out as more air was forced through. I don't really agree with the whole fan hindering airfolow thing. Correct me when I'm wrong but it's when the car is moving at slow speeds when the majority of the problem starts... while moving at speed...with a proper set up having fans behind the oil coolers won't really make much of a difference....but putting around out on track or sitting on the grid waiting for the green light out onto the track is killer. I'm constantly looking for better ways to cool. I even have a bug sprayer I'm going to fill with water in cabin/passenger side area ill be plumbing to spray onto my oil coolers. Simply pump and manually hit the spray button.


manny, please dont take this as sarcastic hatred, but have you verified that that double-stack intercooler/radiator setup will work well in high heat in a track situation and actually push air through both and underneath the car? i am having trouble visualizing how that will happen.
i like the oil cooler fan idea. however, i've never been in a situation where my oil temps skyrocketed while sitting in the grid waiting to go onto the track. i understand it's hotter where you live, but how long are you all sitting on the grid with your cars running? we get a 10 minute warning, then we line up and we're out on the track...
Haven't seen any on here but I know Pettit did it on their FD race cars back in the day. I think SHPNOUT has the setup on his car (former Pettit car). Might want to start a thread in the Race section or here on this topic.






