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How hard must you torque the spark plugs?

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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 02:11 PM
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How hard must you torque the spark plugs?

I've heard different stories.
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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 02:52 PM
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The Mazda manual does not tell different stories. Hint, hint!

I use 10ftlbs, about in the middle.
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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 02:55 PM
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I don't have a torque specification, but since it is a gasket style plug half a turn after gasket contact. From the NGK spark plug package.

Last edited by cymrex; Feb 17, 2002 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 03:28 PM
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i know this isnt very accurate, but i tighten all i can with my fingers and then about 1-2 turns with the wrench
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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 07:21 PM
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use high temp anti-seize as well....
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 08:28 AM
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the block is alumnium remember.....
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 09:52 AM
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Really, really tight is good since you don't want them to leak or vibrate loose and fall out, but be carefull - not too much or your pistons will slam into them and break. At least 200 ft. lbs should work, maybe more.


(j/k.. turn until they seat and give them a little extra turn with the wrench. You will feel them stop. They need to be "snug". A torque wrench is not needed. ALWAYS use anti-seize or you will be sorry)
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 11:11 AM
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Next time you are down there, look, the gasket ring does not make contact with the rotor housing. Spooky
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 11:45 AM
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Originally posted by cymrex
I don't have a torque specification, but since it is a gasket style plug half a turn after gasket contact. From the NGK spark plug package.
Yeah, that's fairly accurate....That's how the mechanics do it.
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RonKMiller
Really, really tight is good since you don't want them to leak or vibrate loose and fall out, but be carefull - not too much or your pistons will slam into them and break. At least 200 ft. lbs should work, maybe more.

pfffh, 200 ft. lbs is not even close enough on the tightness. You need at least 350 ft. lbs of torque with red locktite. My buddy's niece's daughter had a FD torqued its spark plug to 200 ft. lbs and the thing shot out like a overboosted piston after 5 miles and shattered on driver side strut followed by engine fire. She was burned alive from that accident while she was on her way to school.


Just put some locktite and then use a high torque impact gun (about 1600 ft. lbs) and impact it to for like 5 minute straight and you will be good. Be sure to measure the clearance with a 0.0012 feelers gauge between the plug and the housing so it dosent go too far in.


No don't do what I just said above, you will need a pair of new rotor housing plus a set of new spark plugs if you do that.

Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; Sep 21, 2012 at 10:16 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 10:31 PM
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^and the point of bringing this thread back from the dead with your non-funny post is.....?
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
^and the point of bringing this thread back from the dead with your non-funny post is.....?
Hey that hurt my feelings. A lot!

But the reason why I brought this thread back to life is because it's almost that time of the year when ppl bring dead threads back to life to spook others out. You know... Halloween

trick or treat!

Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; Sep 22, 2012 at 12:33 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 08:31 AM
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Well this isn't the lounge my friend, this is the technical section.

We all have a sense of humor..... when something is actually funny

I'll let your shenanigans slide this time, but the next time you post make sure that it's actually something relevant. Thanks
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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Ease up, and RonKMiller's post in '02 was not in jest also?. While this was dragged out of the dungeon someone else may be incapable of reading a service manual or spark plug packaging.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RonKMiller
..... (j/k.. turn until they seat and give them a little extra turn with the wrench. You will feel them stop. They need to be "snug". A torque wrench is not needed. ALWAYS use anti-seize or you will be sorry)
Yeah...but RonKMiller's post ended up being the most complete and helpful answer all around IMO.
If they can't read an FSM, can't read a label and can't bother to search for this or other similar threads, they shouldn't be changing plugs. Bringing this thread back was pointless.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Julian
Ease up, and RonKMiller's post in '02 was not in jest also?. While this was dragged out of the dungeon someone else may be incapable of reading a service manual or spark plug packaging.
It has more to do with DairokutenMaoh bumping an age old thread with nothing positive at all to add to it.
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