how to "drop" the subframe to reseal oil leak?
05-31-10, 01:18 PM
#27
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That idea to me sounded good on paper too but once I actually did it, I realized that trying to wiggle the oil pan into that small area above the subframe is incredibly difficult and you cant see everything thats happening. I can't even begin to imagine actually having sealant on the pan and trying to be careful of smearing it by hitting something on accident. Even if you were to lift the engine higher, sliding the pan under the engine through the subframe is still gonna be harder then dropping the subframe because of the angle of how the pan will be going in.
Keep in mind that if you want the engine to be up higher, then you will have to unbolt the bell housing bolts and drop the tranny. Only then will you be able to lift the engine as high as you want, but to me that sounds a LOT harder then dropping the subframe. I ended up dropping the subframe and it made the job a LOT easier and I haven't leaked oil from the pan in over a year.
Keep in mind that if you want the engine to be up higher, then you will have to unbolt the bell housing bolts and drop the tranny. Only then will you be able to lift the engine as high as you want, but to me that sounds a LOT harder then dropping the subframe. I ended up dropping the subframe and it made the job a LOT easier and I haven't leaked oil from the pan in over a year.
06-02-10, 01:23 PM
#29
Completely agree - I re-sealed my oil pan by just loosening the subframe, and the amount of time & frustration I spent fighting the subframe getting the oil pan out & back in would have been much better spent dropping the subframe from the beginning. You will also gain you much better access to the oil pan bolts, etc.
06-03-10, 04:03 PM
#30
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Any body have pictures of the whole steps cuz in about 2 weeks i have to do my oil pan gasket is leaking on the driver side.
Should I get engine mounts too?
Should I get engine mounts too?
06-04-10, 02:25 AM
#32
just finished putting the studds in... need to clean the pan and re install. i forgot how much i hate working on my back.
considering ive deleted practically everything there is to delete. i definately should just pulled the motor. i just find the rad a huge PITA and ive never just pulled the motor.. always took the tranny out with it.......
after writing this idk if i would but this is a PITA on my back.,,,,,,,,,,
considering ive deleted practically everything there is to delete. i definately should just pulled the motor. i just find the rad a huge PITA and ive never just pulled the motor.. always took the tranny out with it.......
after writing this idk if i would but this is a PITA on my back.,,,,,,,,,,
06-04-10, 03:24 AM
#34
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If your mounts are original and have been soaked in leaking oil for several years, they are bad. When I pulled my motor mounts apart during my oil pan job, they fell apart into my hands in 2 pieces. I'd recommend you go with urethane motor mounts while ur there.
06-11-10, 02:28 PM
#39
the raised rib is there to redice flexing/ buckling between the bolts (or studs in your case)
if I were you, I'd remove all the silicone, you dont want to have to do this twice.
also, there may be oil/ solvent contamination that may not allow proper seal to the surface of the oil pan.
I suggest that you look int othe Pineapple Racing/ Xcessive oil pan.
Larger capasity
Baffled/ windage trayed
Much more rigid
Viton O-ringed
if I were you, I'd remove all the silicone, you dont want to have to do this twice.
also, there may be oil/ solvent contamination that may not allow proper seal to the surface of the oil pan.
I suggest that you look int othe Pineapple Racing/ Xcessive oil pan.
Larger capasity
Baffled/ windage trayed
Much more rigid
Viton O-ringed
06-11-10, 07:19 PM
#41
I have seen 2 returns that were from casting imperfections in the older pans (when the baffles were welded in, rather than casted in.
the newer oil pans are casted differently (less porosity) and coated with an oil/ solvent resistant material.
people that were claiming that the pans leaked were warrantied & taken care of.
the newer oil pans are casted differently (less porosity) and coated with an oil/ solvent resistant material.
people that were claiming that the pans leaked were warrantied & taken care of.
06-12-10, 07:25 PM
#42
Racecar - Formula 2000
IIRC, the groves were put there originally to stiffen the pan and to help lock the gasket in place. With silicone seal, they are not as necessary. That said, I'd still clean them out - it is easy with a wire wheel on a grinder.
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