^^^ pretty sure the ppf braces the drivetrain together... remove the ppf and it will allow more slack in the engine to be lifted higher

 

That idea to me sounded good on paper too but once I actually did it, I realized that trying to wiggle the oil pan into that small area above the subframe is incredibly difficult and you cant see everything thats happening. I can't even begin to imagine actually having sealant on the pan and trying to be careful of smearing it by hitting something on accident. Even if you were to lift the engine higher, sliding the pan under the engine through the subframe is still gonna be harder then dropping the subframe because of the angle of how the pan will be going in.

Keep in mind that if you want the engine to be up higher, then you will have to unbolt the bell housing bolts and drop the tranny. Only then will you be able to lift the engine as high as you want, but to me that sounds a LOT harder then dropping the subframe. I ended up dropping the subframe and it made the job a LOT easier and I haven't leaked oil from the pan in over a year.

 

Drop the subframe, much easier to work with. It is definately a tight space without droping the subframe.

 

Completely agree - I re-sealed my oil pan by just loosening the subframe, and the amount of time & frustration I spent fighting the subframe getting the oil pan out & back in would have been much better spent dropping the subframe from the beginning. You will also gain you much better access to the oil pan bolts, etc.

 

Any body have pictures of the whole steps cuz in about 2 weeks i have to do my oil pan gasket is leaking on the driver side.

Should I get engine mounts too?

 

Bubbles,

After trying to do this with the motor in place & dropping the subframe...

Would you rather have just pulled the motor?

 

just finished putting the studds in... need to clean the pan and re install. i forgot how much i hate working on my back.

considering ive deleted practically everything there is to delete. i definately should just pulled the motor. i just find the rad a huge PITA and ive never just pulled the motor.. always took the tranny out with it.......

after writing this idk if i would but this is a PITA on my back.,,,,,,,,,,

 

if they are bad, might aswell replace the mounts... i am too

free irp motormount =) won from dgrrx

 

If your mounts are original and have been soaked in leaking oil for several years, they are bad. When I pulled my motor mounts apart during my oil pan job, they fell apart into my hands in 2 pieces. I'd recommend you go with urethane motor mounts while ur there.

 

kool thanks guy. I will replace my motor mounts then.

 

can someone explain what the purpose of the grooves on the oil pan are for? is it that big of a deal if the silicone isnt 100% removed? is it just room for silicone to escape to?

 

are you using an OEM oil pan, or Xcessive/ pineapple racing or oryhrt brand?

 

oem pan/rightstuff/stuuds/banzai brace

 

the raised rib is there to redice flexing/ buckling between the bolts (or studs in your case)

if I were you, I'd remove all the silicone, you dont want to have to do this twice.

also, there may be oil/ solvent contamination that may not allow proper seal to the surface of the oil pan.

I suggest that you look int othe Pineapple Racing/ Xcessive oil pan.

Larger capasity
Baffled/ windage trayed
Much more rigid
Viton O-ringed

 

^^^^ i heard that had a problem with leaking as well no?

 

I have seen 2 returns that were from casting imperfections in the older pans (when the baffles were welded in, rather than casted in.

the newer oil pans are casted differently (less porosity) and coated with an oil/ solvent resistant material.

people that were claiming that the pans leaked were warrantied & taken care of.

 

IIRC, the groves were put there originally to stiffen the pan and to help lock the gasket in place. With silicone seal, they are not as necessary. That said, I'd still clean them out - it is easy with a wire wheel on a grinder.