how do you guys dealing with heat soak..
#26
Originally posted by pugg57
apex'i doesn't have a foam filter... at least the power intake like what i have doesn't. the FEED vented hood is nice. the vents are near the rear (windshield side of the hood) and it looks pretty stock otherwise. bit pricey, but definitely a NICE looking piece
apex'i doesn't have a foam filter... at least the power intake like what i have doesn't. the FEED vented hood is nice. the vents are near the rear (windshield side of the hood) and it looks pretty stock otherwise. bit pricey, but definitely a NICE looking piece
#29
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Not to sound trite, but who cares if water gets into your intake? That would be poor man's water injection. It take a serious amount of water to cause hydrolock for a combustion engine anyways. The water would simply flash evaporate and cool down your intake temps.
#30
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Originally posted by BATMAN
Ceramic coating items related to turbos, intake and exhaust does help a little.
Ceramic coating items related to turbos, intake and exhaust does help a little.
#32
I'm a CF and poop smith
Originally posted by pomanferrari
You mean this?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...electric+water
My electric water pump comes on based on a temp sensor mounted to the filler neck. It activates both the pump and fans to cool the car down. I haven't seen it go above 210 after shutdown with 80 ambient yet. I'm waiting for the real test this summer.
You mean this?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...electric+water
My electric water pump comes on based on a temp sensor mounted to the filler neck. It activates both the pump and fans to cool the car down. I haven't seen it go above 210 after shutdown with 80 ambient yet. I'm waiting for the real test this summer.
#35
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Originally posted by BATMAN
ceramic coating exhaust and then heat wrapping it is a good thing too.........
ceramic coating exhaust and then heat wrapping it is a good thing too.........
Originally posted by Garrett
Not to sound trite, but who cares if water gets into your intake? That would be poor man's water injection. It take a serious amount of water to cause hydrolock for a combustion engine anyways. The water would simply flash evaporate and cool down your intake temps.
Not to sound trite, but who cares if water gets into your intake? That would be poor man's water injection. It take a serious amount of water to cause hydrolock for a combustion engine anyways. The water would simply flash evaporate and cool down your intake temps.
#36
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Michael Filippello
I have a question regarding the install of the electric water pump on the line at the back of the engine. Since this line feeds the heater core, will it flow coolant if the heater is not on? How does the stock system control heat in the car? Does it cut off coolant flow by closing a valve or does it just cut off air flow via a damper?
If it cuts off coolant flow, then I would assume you would have to leave the heater control on full heat.
Mike
I have a question regarding the install of the electric water pump on the line at the back of the engine. Since this line feeds the heater core, will it flow coolant if the heater is not on? How does the stock system control heat in the car? Does it cut off coolant flow by closing a valve or does it just cut off air flow via a damper?
If it cuts off coolant flow, then I would assume you would have to leave the heater control on full heat.
Mike
The point is not to use the heater core to cool down the block but to circulate coolant through the front radiator when the engine is off but not present a restriction (the electric pump - not that it restrict flow at all as it's a magnetic impeller drive) when the mechanical water pump is running.
VW and Audi have this pump in at least the VR6 due to the tight spacing of the cylinders: head warpage. Mercedes also. Hell, if two reputable manufacturers put this in their cars, i don't see why we shouldn't do it in ours.
#37
I was at the dealer today and we looked up the schematics on the heater core. It seems that there is some type of valve located below the heater core where the lines come into it from the fire wall.
This also confirms the real world observation that I have experienced where there is a noticable increase in swooshing noise coming from the heater core when I turn my temp control to full heat. This has to be from coolant flow being allowed to pass through. I am not saying that it is an open or close type deal but maybe always allows some coolant to pass and when you turn the **** to full heat it opens all the way.
I will check into this further to see how it functions. I know pomanferrari is having success with his setup and this is a great idea. I just figure it wouldn't hurt to check on some of the minor details.
I have already found a pump fpr $30 with only 100 miles on it and plan to make a circuit that will only come on when the car is off. This way the stock controls will function while the car is on, and this circuit will only be energized when the car is off.
Mike
This also confirms the real world observation that I have experienced where there is a noticable increase in swooshing noise coming from the heater core when I turn my temp control to full heat. This has to be from coolant flow being allowed to pass through. I am not saying that it is an open or close type deal but maybe always allows some coolant to pass and when you turn the **** to full heat it opens all the way.
I will check into this further to see how it functions. I know pomanferrari is having success with his setup and this is a great idea. I just figure it wouldn't hurt to check on some of the minor details.
I have already found a pump fpr $30 with only 100 miles on it and plan to make a circuit that will only come on when the car is off. This way the stock controls will function while the car is on, and this circuit will only be energized when the car is off.
Mike
#38
well, i just crawled up under the dash and unscrewed the access cover just below the heater core. Right where the two heater lines come in is the valve that I saw in the schematic. The thing is that this seems to control a flapper above the lines in the haeter box somewhere and not a valve in the line of coolant itself.
I did some emperical testing to see if this valve had any effect on the flow of coolant through the heater core. Since my motor is out right now, I had easy access to both lines. With my employee operating the valve manually, I blew into one of the heater hoses. As he switched the valve open and closed. I felt no increase in restriction at all. I guess pomanferrari is correct in that coolant flow is unaltered by the temp setting and that this servo operated control is opening and closing a door of some sort.
This could also explain why I hear more swooshing when I turn the **** to full heat. When the door is shut the sound is muffled. When it is opened, I can hear the sounds that are always present but normally shielded by the door.
This of course makes this mod so much easier.
Mike
I did some emperical testing to see if this valve had any effect on the flow of coolant through the heater core. Since my motor is out right now, I had easy access to both lines. With my employee operating the valve manually, I blew into one of the heater hoses. As he switched the valve open and closed. I felt no increase in restriction at all. I guess pomanferrari is correct in that coolant flow is unaltered by the temp setting and that this servo operated control is opening and closing a door of some sort.
This could also explain why I hear more swooshing when I turn the **** to full heat. When the door is shut the sound is muffled. When it is opened, I can hear the sounds that are always present but normally shielded by the door.
This of course makes this mod so much easier.
Mike
#39
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Michael Filippello
well, i just crawled up under the dash and unscrewed the access cover just below the heater core. Right where the two heater lines come in is the valve that I saw in the schematic. The thing is that this seems to control a flapper above the lines in the haeter box somewhere and not a valve in the line of coolant itself.
I did some emperical testing to see if this valve had any effect on the flow of coolant through the heater core. Since my motor is out right now, I had easy access to both lines. With my employee operating the valve manually, I blew into one of the heater hoses. As he switched the valve open and closed. I felt no increase in restriction at all. I guess pomanferrari is correct in that coolant flow is unaltered by the temp setting and that this servo operated control is opening and closing a door of some sort.
Mike
well, i just crawled up under the dash and unscrewed the access cover just below the heater core. Right where the two heater lines come in is the valve that I saw in the schematic. The thing is that this seems to control a flapper above the lines in the haeter box somewhere and not a valve in the line of coolant itself.
I did some emperical testing to see if this valve had any effect on the flow of coolant through the heater core. Since my motor is out right now, I had easy access to both lines. With my employee operating the valve manually, I blew into one of the heater hoses. As he switched the valve open and closed. I felt no increase in restriction at all. I guess pomanferrari is correct in that coolant flow is unaltered by the temp setting and that this servo operated control is opening and closing a door of some sort.
Mike
#40
yeah, I guess this confirms your findings. It's all about the search for the truth. I hope this info helps everyone else that reads through all the posts. It seems that with all the thousands of posts, that many threads start to contradict the others. Everyone says to search but I find too much conflicting data anymore.
Mike
Mike
#41
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
Feed hood http://www.rotaryextreme.com/feed.html
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