my mistake, but point being, woundn't any intake with exposed filters like that of the apex-i get water on them

 

I think some vented hoods have some sort of closing mechanism on the underside.

 

anybody know the answer to my question regarding the heater core and the pump placement

 

Not to sound trite, but who cares if water gets into your intake? That would be poor man's water injection. It take a serious amount of water to cause hydrolock for a combustion engine anyways. The water would simply flash evaporate and cool down your intake temps.

 

Still a little early to tell for sure since summer hasn't fully arrived in the midwest, but wrapping my DP (back to the cat) seems to have helped significantly. Sort of a poor man's ceramic coating.

 

]

yeah tell me about it!
my heat soak dropped 3c
lol

 

wow, exactly what i was thinking of

 

ceramic coating exhaust and then heat wrapping it is a good thing too.........

 

anyone know of a site for the feed vented hood so I can check it out?

 

Heat Wrap on the downpipe did wonders.

Yup, and its alot different when water gets a rotary. I dont even think it can hydro-lock. I mean the water would have to travel UP the intake somehow survive the heat of the turbos and then still go through the intercooler! I mean am I the only one that see's how hard this is to happen? I laugh when people worry about this. I would worry more about going through a deep puddle a silly drops of rain on my vented hood.

 

Unlike alot of the older cars where the heater has to be on for coolant to be circulating, our heater core will allow coolant to circulate with the heater off.

The point is not to use the heater core to cool down the block but to circulate coolant through the front radiator when the engine is off but not present a restriction (the electric pump - not that it restrict flow at all as it's a magnetic impeller drive) when the mechanical water pump is running.

VW and Audi have this pump in at least the VR6 due to the tight spacing of the cylinders: head warpage. Mercedes also. Hell, if two reputable manufacturers put this in their cars, i don't see why we shouldn't do it in ours.

 

I was at the dealer today and we looked up the schematics on the heater core. It seems that there is some type of valve located below the heater core where the lines come into it from the fire wall.

This also confirms the real world observation that I have experienced where there is a noticable increase in swooshing noise coming from the heater core when I turn my temp control to full heat. This has to be from coolant flow being allowed to pass through. I am not saying that it is an open or close type deal but maybe always allows some coolant to pass and when you turn the **** to full heat it opens all the way.

I will check into this further to see how it functions. I know pomanferrari is having success with his setup and this is a great idea. I just figure it wouldn't hurt to check on some of the minor details.

I have already found a pump fpr $30 with only 100 miles on it and plan to make a circuit that will only come on when the car is off. This way the stock controls will function while the car is on, and this circuit will only be energized when the car is off.

Mike

 

well, i just crawled up under the dash and unscrewed the access cover just below the heater core. Right where the two heater lines come in is the valve that I saw in the schematic. The thing is that this seems to control a flapper above the lines in the haeter box somewhere and not a valve in the line of coolant itself.

I did some emperical testing to see if this valve had any effect on the flow of coolant through the heater core. Since my motor is out right now, I had easy access to both lines. With my employee operating the valve manually, I blew into one of the heater hoses. As he switched the valve open and closed. I felt no increase in restriction at all. I guess pomanferrari is correct in that coolant flow is unaltered by the temp setting and that this servo operated control is opening and closing a door of some sort.

This could also explain why I hear more swooshing when I turn the **** to full heat. When the door is shut the sound is muffled. When it is opened, I can hear the sounds that are always present but normally shielded by the door.

This of course makes this mod so much easier.

Mike

 

I had a spare heater core and tested this out. Never did see the typical heater core valve you're talking about, well not at least since the early 1980s.

 

yeah, I guess this confirms your findings. It's all about the search for the truth. I hope this info helps everyone else that reads through all the posts. It seems that with all the thousands of posts, that many threads start to contradict the others. Everyone says to search but I find too much conflicting data anymore.

Mike

 

Feed hood http://www.rotaryextreme.com/feed.html

 

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don't stop the car once it's going
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