yes i searched but all i found was to adjust the throttle body??? i don't know what to look for. if someone has a pic showing what needs to be adjusted i would be grateful.

 

On the front of the throttle body is a screw about an inch in length in a vertical position. It is identifiable by the cinch nut that is at the base of the screw before it threads into a metal tab. Below that tab, the screw presses against an arm on the throttle louver mechanism. You adjust the idle setting by backing-off the cinch nut and turning the screw up or down. If that doesn't do it, there is another adjustment you will need to make but let's start there.

 

just to be a bit of a jack ***... there are a lot of online pics and threads already about this, use the search thread

haha in anycase here are some pics i took for another guy http://community.webshots.com/album/158470992amAIUE

goodluck

P.S. there is actually another screw on the bottem of the uim but i have never had to use it to adjust idle

 

better question is whats the better method of adjusting ur idle....

should the butterfly be totally closed and air bleed screw adjusted....

or air bleed totally closed and throttle adjusted?

 

I wouldn't play with the little screw with the nut that "Jd to rescue" was talking about. I remember having hard time adjusting the screw so that the motor would idle perfectly with the headlight, and AC on. I'd just adjust the idle with the little screw under the elbow..

 

Logic would suggest that for small idle adjustments the screw that is out front and most readily accessible is the one to tinker with first. The air bleed screw down under the elbow and requiring some disassembly (removal of the oil catch tank) does not seem like the logical first choice. I'll go further and just say, the air bleed valve is for major adjustments when the screw at the front of the throttle body is not sufficient to control the idle.

 

thats odd. I just had to stick my hand under the elbow pipe and used minus screw driver to adjust. It took me, 10sec.

 

The air bleed screw does not require removal of the oil catch tank for access. It's not in the greatest of places (directly under the TB elbow on the TB itself), but it is accessible with a screwdriver.

You do have to find the balance, however, and that's easier with the idle adjustment screw. Trying to use the air bleed screw by itself (with the throttle plates completely shut) will most likely overpower that circuit's ability to control the idle smoothly. It is possible to control the idle with the air bleed screw shut, but it depends on the mating surfaces of the TB and the throttle plates (the reason for the air bleed screw in the first place-- the intake pulsations at idle are difficult to control with the relatively wide circumference of the throttle plates); most of the time, it's a balance between the two.

 

Someone show me where exactly this other screw under the uim is, pics please

 

If the throttle body has never been adjusted, then use the screw below the elbow. Run you hand under the elbow and across the TB and you'll find it. If the front of the throttle body has been adjusted, then it will be an iterative process between the two adjustments to achieve a balance (as pointed out in another post) and get it right; a steady idle at the desired speed. And that's assuming you don't have any vacuum leaks.

When my car was new, a Mazda dealer tech who apparently didn't know **** about the FD adjusted the front of the TB and screwed it up. I got embattled with Mazda over the warranty status of the repair and eventually talked to an engineer who informed me that the the TB''s are all set on a flow bench (apparently to put them within range of the air bleed adjustment and other idle controls) and that adjusting the TB butterflies will make it extreemly difficult to get a good idle characteristic. Anyway, Mazda finally replaced the TB with a new, calibrated one and that fixed the idle problem.

 

Your mistake was not buying the Mazda Manuals!

 

Kento be the man. Forgot there was that little pass through hole to reach the air bleed screw. That's probably because in 12 years and two FDs I've only had to a adjust the idle by the air bleed screw one time, and that was some time ago. I have always been able to successfully reset the idle with the screw at the front of the throttle body.

 

Yeah...what is ideal? (not idle)...My idle was high...about 1200rpm and the idle screw on the front of the TB was backed all the way out...Then I moved the air screw under the TB...it's almost cranked all the way closed for me to maintain 800rpm (clockwise to lower idle and anticlockwise to raise idle for those of you not familiar with it)....Doesn't seem right that they are bot almot maxed out to maintain 800rpm...Not an issue really but thought I'd ask.

 

It varies, because each throttle body's mating surfaces between the body itself and the throttle plates are different. Ideally, they want you to control the idle just with the throttle plates, but that's very difficult for the aftorementioned reason. Generally, the less you use the air bleed screw, the better.

Not saying this could be a cause for your case, but if you are very close to having both the throttle plates and air bleed screw completely shut, you may have issues with the throttle plates' sealing surface, or an intake leak somewhere.

 

good info kento. thanks

 

Stick your head back up your ***, and do everyone a favor...just ban yourself now. You annoying little focker.

 

another good reason to having ur air bleed screw almost completely shut is that when your idle eventually drops significantly its time to clean your throttle body.