I know this question has probably been asked a million times before, sorry, but please bear with me.

How can I tell for sure that an FD is a R1 or R2 model?? I know it should have no sunroof, dual oil coolers, front chin spioler and rear wing, suede seats and better suspension but besides the normal visible stuff, is there a VIN related to these models or some manufacturer's identification? I ask this because with a 10 yr old car and enough money anyone can buy those extra parts and convert another model into an R1 or R2 right? Can calling a Mazda dealer with the VIN clear this up? Suggestions?

 

The model type was not recorded with the VIN#, contrary to popular conception. Along with the items you listed, there should be no rear wiper and no cruise control (there shouldn't be controls on the wheel either). Also, there should be a front shock tower brace. If they've go all that, then you have an R1/R2. If it's not "real", who cares?

 

r1's were made in 93 r2's were made in 94 and 95. if u know you have an r model easist way to tell if it is an r2 is if it has a passangerside airbag.

 

the real question is, will the guy you end up selling it to know the difference??

 

The first thing I would check would be the dual oil coolers, if it doesn't have those it is not an R model.

 

all the differences are already listed so i wont say them again.

the only thing i can say is the R1 has a stiffer suspension. It won't be much, but you would be able to feel it. Also, Touring came in Leather and it came without a spoiler.

No cruise control on R1 as it was made to be lighter then any other model.

 

The information is available from the mazda dealership.It is on whats called a warrenty vehicle inquiry detail.I have the one for my car sitting here and it tells you the model,yr,original ext.color,original int. color,engine#,trans type,and other information that shouldn't be available

 

No Fog lights on the R1...

IMO, the most difficult item (and probably most expensive) to "add" to a fake R1 would be the second oil cooler.

 

Actually the base model is lighter than an R1.

 

no bose system either..

 

That's probably right, but IMHO the item least likely done to fake an R1 would be to replace the hatch with one with no rear wiper. A close second would be pulling the cruise control and replacing all the bits to make it look like it was never there.

 

-_________________________________________

^^^^ true that
`johnny k

 

You may be right...didn't think of that. The question still is....why worry? Ten to 11 years later, and all else being equal with a given car, is there that big of a difference in the price/desirability to make any of it worth faking?

 

Actually, I installed cruise control in my R1, and traded out the steering column covers with the guy who sold it to me. So his now looks like it never had cruise, and mine looks like it was stock (thanks Wade!). I voted "my RX7 is my only car" in the poll going on right now (so you know why I did it).

 

What about welding a metal plate for the sunroof
Sorry just had to say it

 

If it has all of the fittings of a R1, then you might as well call it a R1 anyways. What's the difference? After all a R1 is only a base model with a different option package.

 

What are you stressing about? It's an RX-7. If you plan on moddin' the car, I really wouldn't worry about it since you'd be replacing all those special parts anyway.

 

Check the part number on the rear trailing arms. Base and Touring use FD15-28-50X. R1/R2 use FD16-28-50X. Can't imagine anyone spending over $200 each to upgrade them.

 

you'd be suprised

 

That doesnt always work, If it was a auto to manual swap there is a tranny cooler which is identical to a oil cooler on the passanger side..

 

I didn't notice swaybar size listed, R models have larger rear swaybars than non-r's<93 R1's were the largest, R2s were slightly smaller>. Out of curiousity, what's different about the rear control arms? I hadn't heard that one. Also, I haven't really looked at mine, but my car has all the original documents down to the tire waranty pamphlet, if the tire models are listed Rs would have Z rated tires, and it'd be unlikely someone would fake that.

 

I think the only difference in the rear link is that the bushing is stiffer. The collision manual I'm referencing shows the same rear swaybar for all 93's. 94/95 had a different bar for all models.

Rear and front shocks are different for all 93-95 R1/R2.

94/95 R series have different front springs.

Front arm 95 R2 has different bushings. Rear upper arm 95 R2 has different bushings.

 

I think the only difference in the rear link is that the bushing is stiffer. The collision manual I'm referencing shows the same rear swaybar for all 93's. 94/95 had a different bar for all models.

Rear and front shocks are different for all 93-95 R1/R2.

94/95 R series have different front springs.

Front arm 95 R2 has different bushings. Rear upper arm 95 R2 has different bushings.

 

I think the only difference in the rear link is that the bushing is stiffer. The collision manual I'm referencing shows the same rear swaybar for all 93's. 94/95 had a different bar for all models.

Rear and front shocks are different for all 93-95 R1/R2.

94/95 R series have different front springs.

Front arm 95 R2 has different bushings. Rear upper arm 95 R2 has different bushings

 

I think the only difference in the rear link is that the bushing is stiffer. The collision manual I'm referencing shows the same rear swaybar for all 93's. 94/95 had a different bar for all models.

Rear and front shocks are different for all 93-95 R1/R2.

94/95 R series have different front springs.

Front arm 95 R2 has different bushings. Rear upper arm 95 R2 has different bushings