bufferovrflo

iTrader: (7)

Bump

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Wouldn't Mazda have considered power steering failure in the quill strength?

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

sorry for the late reply, I've been away for a while with no motivation to do ANYTHING car related, a really bad experience with a fabricator has really soured my perspective. Slowly gaining motivation. No you don't put the seal and bearing back on. I don't know if Mazda considered it, but I've heard reports (both in this thread and elsewhere) of them breaking, so why take the chance?

Mr. Johnson

awesome write up ill be doing that this weekend

HppRX7

iTrader: (2)

Good job Kyle, let me know how it works out. Do you think you will be able to turn some R compound tires with that set up?

jayinpalmharbor

awesome write up thanks!

Turk82

iTrader: (17)

Question on this. I'm halfway through and should have no problem finishing this but am concerned about the reassembly because I will need new lock washers for the inner tie rods.

Is there a common part for say miatas or something that I can get locally? or do I have to give Ray a call?

JBF

iTrader: (13)

Back from the dead.

S-chassis inner tie rods and outer tie rod ends are bolt on. Maybe you can find something locally for them?

rollcoal

iTrader: (5)

is there another how to on this with properly working pictures

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I personally couldn't bring myself to doing a non reversible full manuel conversion on the rack. I just did the loop line but "Tvon" style. I know some will say I'm just pushing fluid around (which is true) but, I modified my rack fittings to enlarge the orface ports so more fluid could pass through back and forth and I welded a male AN/JIC fitting onto it so I could use a #6 hydralic line as the the loop. Some resistance does come from pushing the fluids however, the majority of the resistance is pushing the fluid through those tiny orfaces of those rack fittings.