Bump

 

Wouldn't Mazda have considered power steering failure in the quill strength?

 

sorry for the late reply, I've been away for a while with no motivation to do ANYTHING car related, a really bad experience with a fabricator has really soured my perspective. Slowly gaining motivation. No you don't put the seal and bearing back on. I don't know if Mazda considered it, but I've heard reports (both in this thread and elsewhere) of them breaking, so why take the chance?

 

awesome write up ill be doing that this weekend

 

Good job Kyle, let me know how it works out. Do you think you will be able to turn some R compound tires with that set up?

 

awesome write up thanks!

 

Question on this. I'm halfway through and should have no problem finishing this but am concerned about the reassembly because I will need new lock washers for the inner tie rods.

Is there a common part for say miatas or something that I can get locally? or do I have to give Ray a call?

 

Back from the dead.

S-chassis inner tie rods and outer tie rod ends are bolt on. Maybe you can find something locally for them?

 

is there another how to on this with properly working pictures

 

I personally couldn't bring myself to doing a non reversible full manuel conversion on the rack. I just did the loop line but "Tvon" style. I know some will say I'm just pushing fluid around (which is true) but, I modified my rack fittings to enlarge the orface ports so more fluid could pass through back and forth and I welded a male AN/JIC fitting onto it so I could use a #6 hydralic line as the the loop. Some resistance does come from pushing the fluids however, the majority of the resistance is pushing the fluid through those tiny orfaces of those rack fittings.