HARD2B

iTrader: (1)

I saw this post on facebook , I don't know if real or fake.


4-ROTOR GROUP BUY ALERT!

" Defined Autoworks has new exciting news. They are running a group buy on our 4-rotor kits! Includes all the custom parts needed to build a 4 rotor engine. Buyer supplies 2 center irons, 2 front stat gears and front counterweight for modification. If we get over 5 people the price is $7800!"

caredden

iTrader: (148)

We do have a "group buy" section...

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr...p-buy-1075028/

HARD2B

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

I'd say it's real. Those guys aren't a hugely known shop, but they really know wtf they're doing. I would personally trust a product from them.

BryanDowns

iTrader: (2)

Gordon, I'm curious where the 50k is? Is that mostly labor, fabrication and tuning?

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Pretty close. All said and done just in complete engine, if paying all labor cost is going to put you close to $30k. By the time you buy an ECU, pay for installation, ancillaries, tuning, etc etc Id say $45-50k would be realistic. Of course you can save a ton doing things yourself if you have the knowledge/skill, as is with anything. Probably can cut that price in half.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

The bulk of the cost on sonthing like this is always fabrcation and labor.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

A couple years ago, I almost did the same thing. I just can't see putting it in an fd. Way too much work trying to move the engine even furthure back and not effecting the steering rack. A 12a based 4 rotor is about the only way to do it without altering the firwall too much. Too me it has to a mid engine chassis.

http://superlitecars.com/index.php/c...cf5286_640x480

As soon as I build my house and workshop, I'm pulling the trigger on that project.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

IIRC you and defined put in work to move your 20b to the rear of the engine bay. Do you see enough room for a 4 rotor in there?

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

With my setup the front of the 20B is still behind, or about directly above the steering rack. I would be possibly to install the 4 rotor in about the same location, youd just have one housing/iron in front of the rack, so about where most 20Bs end up. Youd most likely have to do some firewall massaging at a minimum, as at least with my setup being as low in the chassis there is no more room in front (would actually hit steering rack), so the engine would need raised slightly. It cant be done for sure, just would take a bit of work.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^ I have some experience with trying to fit a 4 rotor. You would need to massage the firewall pretty extensively to fit. My fd's firewall is about as massaged as it can get with my 20b being moved back. Back in 2010, I had my engine out for my final mods and put a mock up 13b based 4 rotor in the bay (just to see if it would fit). I couldn't get the stock front cover to clear the rack. The factory drysump cover would be worse because the bottom half sticks out further. I would have had to tilt the engine to make it fit. Plus it would have been very difficult to build my style of intake system as the rear housing would be hiding in the tranny tunnel.

jantore

It's been done and driven Works great, the power on th e4 rotor is great compeard to a turbo engine. So smooth and easy to drive. Need to lower the steering rack under the dry sump pump as that's is about as far forward the engine wil sit.

Here is a pic of how it was in my FD that now has a 13b BP that pushes 615 at the crank

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Hopefully the OP understands what is included. This isn't a built or even complete disassembled 4rotor for that price.