How can you tell/test for something draining your battery?
#1
How can you tell/test for something draining your battery?
Hey guys...got a ? for you electric gurus out there.
I recently got a new battery (under warranty), and it died on me already. Granted, I did give it hell when trying to crank the engine when it was flooded, but I have a battery charger, charged it fully, and whenever I come to start the car (once every week or two), the battery's ALWAYS weak. After I drive for a bit, and the alternator's running, it gets better. But if I leave it and try cranking it the next day, it's already weak again.
I don't think the battery's bad; I think there's something electrical that's draining the battery, as the other battery was working fine, and died all of a sudden after I had some electrical/audio work done.
I haven't the faintest idea how to go about testing if something's slowly draining the battery or not...so some direction would be great. And break it down for me plz, dummy style
Thanks
~Ramy
I recently got a new battery (under warranty), and it died on me already. Granted, I did give it hell when trying to crank the engine when it was flooded, but I have a battery charger, charged it fully, and whenever I come to start the car (once every week or two), the battery's ALWAYS weak. After I drive for a bit, and the alternator's running, it gets better. But if I leave it and try cranking it the next day, it's already weak again.
I don't think the battery's bad; I think there's something electrical that's draining the battery, as the other battery was working fine, and died all of a sudden after I had some electrical/audio work done.
I haven't the faintest idea how to go about testing if something's slowly draining the battery or not...so some direction would be great. And break it down for me plz, dummy style
Thanks
~Ramy
#2
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
After I drive for a bit, and the alternator's running, it gets better.
But if I leave it and try cranking it the next day, it's already weak again.
I don't think the battery's bad
I think there's something electrical that's draining the battery
died all of a sudden after I had some electrical/audio work done.
I haven't the faintest idea how to go about testing if something's slowly draining the battery or not.
What causes my battery to drain overnight?
Last edited by jimlab; 05-01-05 at 02:12 AM.
#3
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
....whenever I come to start the car (once every week or two), the battery's ALWAYS weak.
I have successfully reused fully discharged batteries before, but IIRC whether or not the battery will be reusable has a lot to do with how long it is left without a charge as the elements within the battery decay. Either way your warranty is still good so go pick up a fresh red top.
#4
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Originally Posted by BlueRex
If you are going to leave your car undriven for an extended period it's a good idea to pull off the negative cable so the battery isn't drained by systems such as alarms. Some even recommend trickle chargers for extended periods without use, although my battery sits on the shelf for 3 months at a time and has no problem starting the car up. A week or two without use shouldn't warrant taking either of these steps with a healthy battery.
I have successfully reused fully discharged batteries before, but IIRC whether or not the battery will be reusable has a lot to do with how long it is left without a charge as the elements within the battery decay. Either way your warranty is still good so go pick up a fresh red top.
I have successfully reused fully discharged batteries before, but IIRC whether or not the battery will be reusable has a lot to do with how long it is left without a charge as the elements within the battery decay. Either way your warranty is still good so go pick up a fresh red top.
yeah, I noticed the fd will drain batteries faster than other cars. Probably has something to do with electronical componenents such as the stock alarm, keyhole lights, etc.
If you let the car sit for a week or two, and the battery is weak, I'd say this is normal. However, if you run the car for a while, maybe an hour or so, the battery should be charged and start the next day. If not, I'd say theres something wrong with your battery or you have something draining it.
#5
Wow Jim...what crawled up your a$$ today??
Yes I know that, but doesn't the alternator recharge the battery? And what I'm saying is, it'll recharge it enough so if I have to run somewhere, when I come out, the battery will crank (weakly), but at least it'll start the car. So there's improvement. And yes, that's after I shut it off again.
From just once? And recharging it won't help anymore? How come it seems to work better after driving the car around?
Well I said this because I don't expect a week-old battery to die THAT quickly...
Are you bored?
That's what I figured... but you're telling me an alarm system when DISARMED will kill your battery? I left it disarmed (car's inside the garage), and I'm still having problems w/ the battery. I know lots of people w/ alarms. I just don't think it's logical to assume or conclude that an alarm will kill your battery like that.
Ok...I take it back. You musta had breakfast today
Yea I know I know...but I was lazy because I didn't want to have to set all the presets in my radio again LOL. That, and I didn't anticipate not driving her for THAT long...
Well again, the battery was new, just put it in to start her, and was cranking for a good 20 min or so (not straight! lol) trying to unflood her. Almost had her, but my starter was cutting in and out, so I had to get that replaced. From that point on (again, on the new battery), she's been having trouble starting up. I put the recharger on her overnight (won't overcharge), then took it off. Showed 100% charge. Came to start the car (don't remember if it was right then and there, or later the same day), but the battery BARELY was able to start the car. I mean BARELY.
Again what's got me wondering is, how come when the ALTERNATOR recharges the battery a bit, it's a lot better (ie after driving some), but when I put an electric charger it doesn't seem to help any? (It'll still lose charge after I drive her, but immediately after the drive, she's good for a few hours haha)
POS7, thanks for the point, and that's why I posted this. This is indeed abnormal...
Originally Posted by jimlab
Do you mean after you shut off the car again? While the engine is running, the alternator is powering everything, not the battery. The battery is just another accessory while the engine is running. The battery only comes into play when you're using accessories (like a stereo) with the engine off, or when starting the car. You knew that, right?
Because it's not holding a charge, because it was drained too far to recover...
I'd bet you're wrong.
Good guess...
Gee, I'll bet there's some connection.
How about a stethoscope? Nope, better make that a multimeter.
What causes my battery to drain overnight?
What causes my battery to drain overnight?
Originally Posted by BlueRex
If you are going to leave your car undriven for an extended period it's a good idea to pull off the negative cable so the battery isn't drained by systems such as alarms.
A week or two without use shouldn't warrant taking either of these steps with a healthy battery.
I have successfully reused fully discharged batteries before, but IIRC whether or not the battery will be reusable has a lot to do with how long it is left without a charge as the elements within the battery decay. Either way your warranty is still good so go pick up a fresh red top.
POS7, thanks for the point, and that's why I posted this. This is indeed abnormal...
#6
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Wow Jim...what crawled up your a$$ today??
Yes I know that, but doesn't the alternator recharge the battery? And what I'm saying is, it'll recharge it enough so if I have to run somewhere, when I come out, the battery will crank (weakly), but at least it'll start the car. So there's improvement. And yes, that's after I shut it off again.
From just once? And recharging it won't help anymore? How come it seems to work better after driving the car around?
Well I said this because I don't expect a week-old battery to die THAT quickly...
That's what I figured... but you're telling me an alarm system when DISARMED will kill your battery? I left it disarmed (car's inside the garage), and I'm still having problems w/ the battery. I know lots of people w/ alarms. I just don't think it's logical to assume or conclude that an alarm will kill your battery like that.
Many electronic devices require constant power to maintain settings, including alarms. You've probably added even more electronic crap, and if you have aftermarket electronic gauges or a turbo timer, or an electronic boost controller, they all likely require power to maintain settings also.
Well again, the battery was new, just put it in to start her, and was cranking for a good 20 min or so (not straight! lol) trying to unflood her.
Showed 100% charge.
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#8
Originally Posted by jimlab
Jeez, and here I thought I'd answered your question on how to find the parasitic drain...
Which means that your battery is fucked. It's not holding a charge. It should start the car without issue if the car sat for 2 weeks. Can you honestly say you could let the car sit for two weeks and the battery would still start it? If not, then your battery is fucked. If you don't believe me, take it to a Schuck's/Pep Boys/Whatever and have them test it.
If the problem that killed the first one still exists, what did you expect?
You didn't specify that it was an alarm that you had installed, but yes, it can kill your battery even when disarmed.
Many electronic devices require constant power to maintain settings, including alarms. You've probably added even more electronic crap, and if you have aftermarket electronic gauges or a turbo timer, or an electronic boost controller, they all likely require power to maintain settings also.
That's a hell of a lot of abuse, if you didn't know that already.
A dead battery can take and show a 100% charge. It just won't maintain it, obviously.
#9
Originally Posted by SPOautos
what battery do you have?
#10
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Yea but it would be great w/o the mocking, that's all
As I've said before, you don't seem to be absorbing a lot in your time spent here. At the very least, you should be an old hand at using the search feature by now, and for using Google to answer some of your questions.
Add to that the massive sound system I have (but I have a cap too)
Defi gauges don't have presets.
Yes I understand, but I didn't think it would KILL a fresh battery. Would you suggest I hook up the battery charger (in the "Start" position, so it'll crank the car for me) in the future, when flooded?
#11
Rotary Freak
Use a digital ammeter to check for a battery drain. You will have to account for minor drains that will always be there to the computers and the clock and such... But if you know what the average drain is (from other owners), then you should be able to see if you have an excessinve drain.
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 05-01-05 at 01:56 PM.
#12
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Originally Posted by jimlab
They don't require a connection with constant 12V? Even my GReddy peak hold boost gauge did. Anything which requires a constant 12V connection is going to leach some amount of current from the battery over time. Start there.
And on a side note cranking the engine will stress the battery, but as I said previously a healthy battery should be able to handle abuse like this no problem. Whenever I do take my battery off the shelf and start the car up I normally remove the EGI fuse and crank the **** out of the engine to lube everything up well before I start it. Still has given me no problems, but I'm not using a fancy red top, I prefer the cost effective kirkland battery.
#13
Originally Posted by jimlab
Well next time, try using GOOGLE...
As I've said before, you don't seem to be absorbing a lot in your time spent here. At the very least, you should be an old hand at using the search feature by now, and for using Google to answer some of your questions.
Your cap is just another battery, for all intents and purposes, but one with very little storage capacity. It helps maintain voltage when the charging system is not able to keep up with your amplifier's current demands, but only for very short periods of time.
They don't require a connection with constant 12V? Even my GReddy peak hold boost gauge did. Anything which requires a constant 12V connection is going to leach some amount of current from the battery over time. Start there.
Yes. Then you should figure out what's causing your engine to flood. Mine never did.
Last edited by FDNewbie; 05-01-05 at 02:36 PM.
#14
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally Posted by BlueRex
And on a side note cranking the engine will stress the battery, but as I said previously a healthy battery should be able to handle abuse like this no problem.
#15
Originally Posted by Kento
Not necessarily. If you sit there cranking on the starter on and off for 20 minutes like he said without driving the car long enough to allow the alternator to replenish the battery charge, letting the battery sit undercharged allows the internals to deteriorate. The same applies for having accessories pull a constant drain without driving the car enough to replenish the battery charge. Do this too many times and eventually the internals corrode to the point that they are unable to hold enough energy to maintain a charge.
#16
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by BlueRex
If that's the truth I think we've found a large part of the problem, Ramy has guages galore.
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I like the forum better.
#17
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Yea, if you get another battery get the Deep Cycle version
Did you have this alarm installed or did you do it yourself? If you had it done I'd take it back to them so they can go over thier work and correct any problems they might have made. I'm sure if you tell them everysince they installed the alarm the battery keeps dieing they will take a look at everything.
Stephen
Did you have this alarm installed or did you do it yourself? If you had it done I'd take it back to them so they can go over thier work and correct any problems they might have made. I'm sure if you tell them everysince they installed the alarm the battery keeps dieing they will take a look at everything.
Stephen
#18
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hook an amp meter inline with one of the battery cables. shut the car off wait 5 minutes for everything to "shut down" and you draw shouldn't be more then probably 50-75 milliamps I would guess. Anymore then that and you should look into whats drawing it down.
#19
Originally Posted by jimlab
I figured as much.
In plain English, the gauges have been in the car for OVER a year. That's more than 365 days. And I never had a single problem, ever. Plus, they do NOT have peak, hold, or warning functions. Don't confuse the other gauges w/ the Defi D's that I have. Gauges aren't the prob, and I know that for sure. Next...
In other words, you like other people to do your searching and thinking for you.
And no, I'm not looking for people to do my searching/thinking for me. I contribute to this forum just like others. I help w/ what I know, as little or great as that may be, and others help w/ what they know. It works out pretty nicely that way. Also, I couldn't remember the term "parasitic draw" and terminology lots of times makes the diff between making a search long and expansive, or quick and focused.
Lastly, while I understand the whole checking for any current being drawn, I don't think my alarm, gauges, etc were wired into a fuse (yes, I'm gonna have to go back and do that). So pulling fuses won't help from what I understand. That helps when it's an integral part of the car (ie stock) that's drawing current continuously, and that part's wired to a fuse... I can pull fuses all day, and if it's the alarm, it won't show.
Originally Posted by SPOautos
Yea, if you get another battery get the Deep Cycle version
Did you have this alarm installed or did you do it yourself? If you had it done I'd take it back to them so they can go over thier work and correct any problems they might have made. I'm sure if you tell them everysince they installed the alarm the battery keeps dieing they will take a look at everything.
93 R1, yea I got that part, how to tell if more current's being drawn, but again, my question is how can I go about isolating WHAT is drawing that current, given that the prime suspect is the alarm, and it's not hooked up to a fuse?
Last edited by FDNewbie; 05-01-05 at 05:15 PM.
#20
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
As usual, Jim's got an agenda, and is building a case for it, regardless of the facts.
In plain English Jim, the gauges have been in the car for OVER a year. That's more than 365 days. And I never had a single problem, ever.
If you keep plugging appliances into the same wall socket, eventually you're going to have a problem. Same goes for a car. It all adds up, and while the gauges themselves may not be the problem and may have worked fine for OVER a year, other things that you've added recently are obviously pushing your electrical system over the limit.
Plus, they do NOT have peak, hold, or warning functions.
Don't confuse the other gauges w/ the Defi D's that I have. Gauges aren't the prob, and I know that for sure.
No in other words at least on the forum I'll be getting FD-specific answers, and chances are someone w/ the same car and similar setup has had the same prob, and can chime in w/ their experience, rather than searching the vast internet for a very generalized problem.
Also, I couldn't remember the term "parasitic draw" and terminology lots of times makes the diff between making a search long and expansive, or quick and focused.
I'm done helping you Ramy. You're not worth the effort.
Last edited by jimlab; 05-01-05 at 05:27 PM.
#21
Originally Posted by jimlab
In my experience, someone with scissor doors is a likely candidate for more gauges than a 747. Are you saying you don't have several gauges?
I have no prob admitting I often look to you for help and info, because you do know a lot. But unfortunately, in all of your years, you still have yet to learn the art of discussion and mutual respect. Always hostile, always in people's faces. I dunno what made you such an ogre Jim, but I hope it changes one day, because your mannerisms make all that knowledge of yours useless when people won't even lend an hear to hear it...
And you don't know the first thing about electrical systems, obviously.
I really don't understand what you expect of me...I openly admit I don't know much about cars, but this forum has helped me grow tremendously. And I'm very thankful for that. But it'll be years before I gain substantial insight into the inner workings and details of automotive mechanics and the 1001 systems and components that go along w/ it (electrical systems included). But you know what? That's just fine by me...because I'm NOT a mechanic, and prob never will be one. That doesn't mean I can't and shouldn't enjoy an incredible car. If that's the case Jim, ppl shouldn't have the right to live because they don't know how their body works and how to properly take care of it? Don't be so hypocritical, because I can spout so much medical info - most of which is VERY technical - that you'd have no idea what I was talking about. But again, humility is a characteristic I strive for, not trying to remind everyone what superiority complex I have, and how ignorant they are...
If you keep plugging appliances into the same wall socket, eventually you're going to have a problem. Same goes for a car. It all adds up, and while the gauges themselves may not be the problem and may have worked fine for OVER a year, other things that you've added recently are obviously pushing your electrical system over the limit.
The features that they have while on are irrelevant. We're talking about what they're doing when "off", obviously, because that's what's draining your battery. Things that are requiring power while the ignition is off...
Battery drain is not limited to FDs, nor is it a very generalized problem, and search engines like Google are intended to let you easily find what you're looking for in the "vast Internet".
"Battery drain" didn't come to mind? I think that's pretty close to the technical terminology I used to find you an article on how to troubleshoot...
I'm done helping you Ramy. You're not worth the effort.
Last edited by FDNewbie; 05-01-05 at 05:54 PM.
#22
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
You don't see me giving you flack for ditching the rotary and going against the very fiber of how this car was designed, do you?
in all of your years, you still have yet to learn the art of discussion and mutual respect.
See, there you go again w/ your insults. I DO understand that you can overload a system, demanding too much of it. But I have no idea HOW you find out what that point is, or when you've reached it. That's why I'm here, on the forum.
Don't be so hypocritical, because I can spout so much medical info - most of which is VERY technical - that you'd have no idea what I was talking about.
But again, humility is a characteristic I strive for, not trying to remind everyone what superiority complex I have, and how ignorant they are...
My lack of knowledge about cars ... at least I'm not afraid to admit it.
#23
Originally Posted by jimlab
Probably because you know how little I care, and how stupid I think people are who say things like "against the very fiber" and "tearing out the soul" in relation to a vehicle...
You have to earn respect. Something your generation doesn't seem to understand.
Did you even LOOK at the link in my first post?
I doubt that. Do you think my knowledge only extends to cars?
Perhaps you're not humble enough. I gave you the answer to troubleshooting your problem in my first post and you're still arguing with me that it can't possibly be your gauges and blah blah blah...
Humbleness, however, is best exemplified when you KNOW the answer, but make little effort to demonstrate your knowledge. It's the exact opposite of pompousness, and in all honesty, I think a little humbleness and humility is def. something you should give some thought to. Seriously.
But not motivated enough to do anything about it, apparently...
Last edited by FDNewbie; 05-01-05 at 07:07 PM.
#24
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Originally Posted by Kento
Not necessarily. If you sit there cranking on the starter on and off for 20 minutes like he said without driving the car long enough to allow the alternator to replenish the battery charge, letting the battery sit undercharged allows the internals to deteriorate. The same applies for having accessories pull a constant drain without driving the car enough to replenish the battery charge. Do this too many times and eventually the internals corrode to the point that they are unable to hold enough energy to maintain a charge.