Denorx7

ok just recently after I drive the car for while and stop then try to start It won't start right away unless I put my foot on peddle then start, any idea why is that happen or how can I solve this problem please?

Cheers

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Give it a compression check mate. This happened to me once before and it turned out to be a blow(ing) motor..

Denorx7

Seriously but is no smoke at all and boost ok and drive normal to be fair is anythink else might cause this problem?

Denorx7

Is anythink to do with tps or flooded or leaking injectors any idea please I'm sure there is loads of people has this problem before.

fcrotory

iTrader: (20)

Yes, it's flooding. That's why you have to floor it. I'm not sure about the FD, but in a s5 you can floor it and it will shut the pump off. Therefore no more fuel can be added when trying to deflood. This usually happen when you cruise down to the market real fast and shut it off. Might be a tired motor....

Denorx7

I really don't know I just drive to the gym have quick session bout 40 mints and I won't start unless I keep pumping the peddle to start ,also I want to add my car has been sitting down for the whole year under project and the people works on my car before not bother with start on and off they treat it like normal piston engine not rotary so that's defo cause flooded because I never had this problem before I start my project.and the engine bay was very dirty while they doin sanding and grinding and all sort of dust went inside the engine bay so I don't really know where to start.

fcrotory

iTrader: (20)

Ok, we'll I can tell you now rotarys don't like to be left unattended. Especially for a yr with no start ups. Seals will get stuck, moisture could get inside, DUST... Did you clean your filter before you started driving it again? Dust inside a engine will do work fast. Sounds like it wasn't taken care of during storage. I would do a comp test and go from there.

Denorx7

I did clean the air filtter,if there is a problem with seals what the sign for that how do I know ?
Also can I use normal automotive tester for piston engines or not to do compression test.

fcrotory

iTrader: (20)

Low compression is a sign... And you can but I think you will have to remove the Schrader valve. You can search how to use a reg comp tester as I'm not too sure.

Denorx7

I can't believe it my engine only 2 years old since rebuild and has been sitting for one year I don't understand how it get that bad without driving the car much it can't be engine no way I think.

fcrotory

iTrader: (20)

Ok...

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

The only way to prove that you haven't lost compression (which can cause severe hot starting issues, like I suggested to you earlier) is to do compression test..

Denial won't make your car run better, and there is no promise that a rebuild will last that long. If the engine was put together poorly, or treated poorly, than it can die fast. For example, my last engine blew in 1 months time (1,500 miles driven) and it came from a shop that had a damned good reputation.

Denorx7

Ok so let's clear something here because I get confused my car still pull like a train ,sometimes I get idle issue but very rear maybe once or twice happen then it go after good drive,also I always smell petrol from under the bonnet when I open the window down,sometimes I get wrong boost reading,and I do believe there is some leak by the turbo area and the injectors because the smell really strong ,buff smoke when start cold and the same when start hot not more.
So all these issues mean I had bad motor if not,where the he'll they coming from and what's cause it.I know am gonna do comp test next week but I need to know these issues as well to sort everything out together in garage.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Details, like that you can smell a fuel leak in the engine bay, from the start would help.

Where in the UK are you?

Denorx7

I'm from Neath in Wales.
Right I been out all day try to find out what's goin on and I discover one of the blue rubber hoses conected to the external wastegate cracked so I replace it now,also the TPS very dirty I did clean it and I cleaned the throttle to it was stink inside and I did try the car start fine and then I turned of and wait 5 mints it start again no problem but I didn't drive it yet so I don't know if works now,because it's pissing down here al day .
Also no petrol smell when I start the car from cold just normal heat smell and a bit of oil burn from the turbo area and that's it,I can't smell any petrol dripping from the injectors or around that area but I still convince the car flooded from before.

Please read carefully and tell me where I stand now.

Cheers

Reno_NVFD

iTrader: (2)

Compression check process

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

Search and perform the deflood procedure

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Honestly, it sounds like your engine bay needs to be thoroughly gone through and have everything. "un-rigged" as I call it. Would probably solve all your problems.

Denorx7

I will do the comp test next week and yes it need to clean every single wire and sensor u can't believe how much dust and dirt al over the place ...

Denorx7

Just want to add I have this problem for ages but I never bothered to fix it basically when I start the car from cold start normal and after 5 or 10 sec it die so I have to start the egine again then it's ok,but sometimes before it die I poke the throttle once or twice and it stays on no cut so any idea what that coule be please?
Cheers

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

I'd start by checking the TPS and idle controls. See this thread for details:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...g-more-170731/

Denorx7

Compression test done today and you will not believe how much carbon built up on spark plugs the both lower rotors as you see in pic and the result are
96psi rear rotor
95psi front rotor
So is the hot start problem issue because the carbon built up on sparks am I right ,
Also we did take off all the spark out first and crank the engine and sound really load air come out like psh psh psh then we did put pack the upper sparks on both rotors but my friend didn't tight them up just thight them by hand then we done the test so is this might let some air out and might get better result than 95 psi or it doesn't matter if they thight or not?

Thanks.

Denorx7

No flooded fuel at all baucse both plugs are dry and not seeing any petrol on them just to much carbon built up,

Denorx7

Please read it and tell me where I stand now.

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

^Done this yet? Imo its most likely your issue....

You need to check compression on each rotor face, so 3 readings per rotor. You've only given two compression readings.

Plugs look pretty normal, but a bit on the rich side (Hard to tell due to pic quality).

Carbon will build up on engine internals, that's normal. When you install your AI she'll clean up nicely, though

Knockers

When you compression test pull the valve out. It will give you a better per face reading which is what you want to see.

Hot start issues are one of the early signs of compression loss. Not dead but on its way out.