it looks like a curved radiator core from a motorcycle. is that an AC relocation project?

 

2+ For the gauge cluster. Looks very clean.

 

Good call. Thats the radiator from a yamaha R6, 2005 if I remember right. Rallimike on the forum here has a dual radiator setup with two small rads where the oil coolers normally go, then kind of a v-mount in the center with 2 oil coolers on the bottom and the IC on top. Been working great for over a year now.

I'm duplicating that but trying to retain the stock bumper and not use really nice but expensive custom radiators. These rads combined have more surface area than a koyo and volume somewhere between a stock rad and a koyo.

i'll probably melt my lights off though.

 

^I suggest not hard mounting the rads to the chassis. Mount using rubber isolaters to keep the rads from vibrating and eventually cracking.

 

-s-

 

good idea. i haven't gotten that far but i'll definitely go that route.

its just a real bugger fitting the rads and accounting for hoses and such. you can see the bumper support isn't on the car in these pics.

i'm going to use SS flexible hose from engine to rad and rad to engine same as rallimike. between the rads i'm going to run an aluminum pipe, maybe go nuts and get some fins on it to increase cooling there. as long as the car is together by spring one way or another!

 

Scotty - what is the 115? Coolant temp?


here is my home made mod...engine control harness firewall disconnect.

 

I am amazed every time I see that... You do great work, man.

 

yeah, i can't stand any kind of wiring or anything electrical really. your patience must be through the roof.

 

Yes, in Fahrenheit. I'm intercepting the signal from the OEM sensor on the rear iron. I was wondering if anyone would notice it. On second thought, I'm not suprised you caught it.

-s-

 

very clean and very trick!! So you basically put a number to the "non-moving" stock gauge? Or is your gauge linear also? Do you still retain the ABS/CEL and whatever else is in that slot?

 

I attempted the gauge linearization a couple years ago, but it didn't seem to be working, and I didn't have the patience to troubleshoot it. My digital gauge intercepts the wiring for the stock gauge, so the OEM gauge doesn't move at all (I'm planning on installing a boost gauge there someday). You can still see when the warning lights are on, although they're much less bright due to the tinted plastic shield. The lights it's partially blocking are 4W ABS, Rear Defrost, Airbag, and CheckEngine.

Here's what I mean by partially blocking. The gauge isn't quite as tall as any of the lights, so you can see them around the perimeter of the plastic.



I'm planning to install one in a friend's FC, but I'm a bit behind schedule so far. I think I'll switch to Celcius, because deg F changes too often, it's a bit distracting. Also, it's nice and easy to see the temp go from two digits (99C) to three (100C), and know "hey, time to pay attention to coolant temps."

-s-

 

I would buy that^ in a heartbeat.

 

I made and fitted my own solid, Teflon rod-end, trailing links. However, I took them off because they were too harsh, and put the stock trailing links back on, but with the stiffer ("hard") MazdaSpeed (R1?) bushings. I still have the links I made (not shiny works of art, but perfectly functional and strong) if anyone would want to buy them.

Dave

 

Dave,

I don't think the stiffer trailing bushings are "R1" bushings. I think they are just stiffer. That being said, I didn't notice a difference when I installed them.

 

Put an electric pump on it, fan on the back, and youve got a nice water to air IC

 

Wow, the water temp in dash is trick. Would like to make an IC Box that goes to the second oil cooler hole in the front bumper, a duct for the rad to the front bumper and an alum. undertray. Those are long term in my head.

 

Thanks - that's why I put a "?" after the R1. I was just guessing. I originally made my home-made ones to reduce wheel hop which was occurring WAY too easily. They worked in that regard, but they were just too harsh and clanked over every little ridge in the road. So when I saw that the MazdaSpeed bushings were available, I got a pair. Since I didn't do a back-to-back between these and the originals, I really can't compare the harshness, but they seem to be much better for wheel hop than the originals were, and the level of harshness is OK.

Dave

 

Dave, I don't think mine were bad when I pulled them out. Just trying to stiffen up rear end a bit.

 

I don't know if my originals were bad or not, but the incidences of wheel hop seemed to be increasing (even accelerating fast out of a driveway to beat traffic sometimes would cause it without even having noticeable wheelspin). Because of that, and because from my work I know that rubber, in general, tends to lose a little bit of stiffness each time it is heavily strained, I thought the MazdaSpeed ones would be a more permanent solution than just putting in new OE ones. So far, it seems to be working.

Dave

 

I've thought about refining the mounting system and trying to sell a few here on rx7club, but I've got a few other projects to finish first. I might look into it this summer.

-s-

 

Hell, I want is where you bought the gauge, and how you made it turn the stock sensors signal into numbers. I like how you have it mounted just fine. I would want to put one of those dual EGT gauges in the stock coolant temp location.

 

I've been thinking about putting digital egt displays in the dash. I'd like to get rid of (move) my extra numbered coolant gauge.

What's the name of that company that refurbishes gauge panels, they mostly do hotrods... can't remember.

Nifty Pyrometer

 

The display is part number 160-1544-5-ND from www.digikey.com . The trick is telling it what number display. I built a circuit board to interface with the sensor, and programmed a microcontroller that interprets the sensor voltage and outputs a number that corresponds to the temperature. It was a project for an Electrical Engineering class.





If you're good at soldering and wiring, I've got a couple of extra PCB's that I could sell for cheap, but the system's not refined enough to sell as a 'Gauge' that the average person could just install like the ones you buy from Autometer or Defi. The numbers flicker sometimes (174-175-174-175-174) due to minor voltage fluctuations from the alternator. It responds very quickly, but that might be annoying sometimes. Since people seem interested, I'll try to sell a few this summer, priced around $125. If someone really wanted one ASAP, I'd sell them the one that's in my car for $200.


-s-

 

wow. i can jump real high!