Holy Bejesus look at my list of things to do, lol.
#1
Holy Bejesus look at my list of things to do, lol.
All of this is currently underway, it's going to look SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET when it's done. Will run like a champ too =)
I'll post some before and after pictures when it's all finished =)
Underhood
Includes:
1. Replace missing O-Ring on Throttle Body
2. Inspect all block off plates for proper seal
3. Add T4 Gasket to Exhaust Manifold
4. Locate and repair exhaust leak in engine bay
5. Replace 3.5" V-Band exhaust clamp
6. Fabricate & Install fuel pressure regulator mounts
7. Install polished coolant filler neck
8. Inspect & repair/replace (as required) electrical harness & connectors
9. Route driver's side engine harness correctly
10. Weatherproof all unused connectors
11. Wrap wiring harnesses with heat tape
12. Rewire fan system to go straight to high when activated
13. Compression test engine
14. Install dipstick
15. Install power steering cap
16. Tighten loose wiper arm
17. Check over vacuum lines, verify & zip-tie all connections
18. Wrap battery with heat reflective bubble wrap
19. Locate and repair small oil leak in turbo area
20. Reroute radiator hose
21. Test radiator cap pressure and pressure test coolant system
22. Install new K&N Filter
23. Re-clock turbo to get more hood clearance
24. Replace alternator
Interior
1. Install methanol low-level indicator system
2. Rewire fuel pump power system for constant 13.5V operation
3. Rewire entire auxiliary power system for aftermarket items
4. Rewire boost controller (including all additional functions)
5. Get rid of kink in boost gauge line
6. Mount boost controller in DIN caddy
7. Replace Pillar Pod
8. Rewire aftermarket gauge illumination
9. Secure rear strut tower brace covers
10. Install ECU Cover
11. Install trim by driver's right knee
Exterior
1. Replace wheel hub/bearings
2. Verify level (side to side) ride height
3. Aim Headlights
4. Install clutch inspection cover
Added
1. Replace passenger door grab handle
2. Replace methanol reservoir
3. Fabricate ducting for intercooler/radiator air flow
4. Replace rubber fuel lines with stainless lines
5. Fabricate 34 row single oil cooler kit & install
6. Fabricate and install 4" catback & add 4.0" V-band on downpipe
7. Install differential brace
8. Replace transmission fluid
9. Re-torque knock sensor
10. Replace oil pressure sensor
11. Shorten turbo oil supply line
12. Roll both front fender lips
More
1. Troubleshoot battery drain
2. Troubleshoot boost controller operation
3. Fix driver's physical door lock
4. Troubleshoot power door lock actuators
5. Troubleshoot inoperable EGT gauge
6. Pull out dents
Outside Labor
1. Alignment
2. Dyno Time
I'll post some before and after pictures when it's all finished =)
Underhood
Includes:
1. Replace missing O-Ring on Throttle Body
2. Inspect all block off plates for proper seal
3. Add T4 Gasket to Exhaust Manifold
4. Locate and repair exhaust leak in engine bay
5. Replace 3.5" V-Band exhaust clamp
6. Fabricate & Install fuel pressure regulator mounts
7. Install polished coolant filler neck
8. Inspect & repair/replace (as required) electrical harness & connectors
9. Route driver's side engine harness correctly
10. Weatherproof all unused connectors
11. Wrap wiring harnesses with heat tape
12. Rewire fan system to go straight to high when activated
13. Compression test engine
14. Install dipstick
15. Install power steering cap
16. Tighten loose wiper arm
17. Check over vacuum lines, verify & zip-tie all connections
18. Wrap battery with heat reflective bubble wrap
19. Locate and repair small oil leak in turbo area
20. Reroute radiator hose
21. Test radiator cap pressure and pressure test coolant system
22. Install new K&N Filter
23. Re-clock turbo to get more hood clearance
24. Replace alternator
Interior
1. Install methanol low-level indicator system
2. Rewire fuel pump power system for constant 13.5V operation
3. Rewire entire auxiliary power system for aftermarket items
4. Rewire boost controller (including all additional functions)
5. Get rid of kink in boost gauge line
6. Mount boost controller in DIN caddy
7. Replace Pillar Pod
8. Rewire aftermarket gauge illumination
9. Secure rear strut tower brace covers
10. Install ECU Cover
11. Install trim by driver's right knee
Exterior
1. Replace wheel hub/bearings
2. Verify level (side to side) ride height
3. Aim Headlights
4. Install clutch inspection cover
Added
1. Replace passenger door grab handle
2. Replace methanol reservoir
3. Fabricate ducting for intercooler/radiator air flow
4. Replace rubber fuel lines with stainless lines
5. Fabricate 34 row single oil cooler kit & install
6. Fabricate and install 4" catback & add 4.0" V-band on downpipe
7. Install differential brace
8. Replace transmission fluid
9. Re-torque knock sensor
10. Replace oil pressure sensor
11. Shorten turbo oil supply line
12. Roll both front fender lips
More
1. Troubleshoot battery drain
2. Troubleshoot boost controller operation
3. Fix driver's physical door lock
4. Troubleshoot power door lock actuators
5. Troubleshoot inoperable EGT gauge
6. Pull out dents
Outside Labor
1. Alignment
2. Dyno Time
#6
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by dhahlen
Yeah, its a lot of dumb stuff... dipstick, fluid cap... just a list of all that needs to be done.... LOL
I broke the last one trying to manuever it around the greddy elbow, has to go in just right... lol.
I broke the last one trying to manuever it around the greddy elbow, has to go in just right... lol.
I hear ya about the greddy elbow, makes it a royal pain to check the oil level.
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#9
White chicks > *
iTrader: (33)
Greddy elbow is more beefier at the corner part so checking dipstick is a pain. Im paranoid of ruining the finish of the greddy elbow so when i check the oil, i bend it as im pulling up or putting it back so it wont rub on the elbow.
To the poster, good luck with the project, i can tell its gonna be a beast.
To the poster, good luck with the project, i can tell its gonna be a beast.
#10
Originally Posted by Barban
Speaking of the greddy elbow. I've got one here and it eliminates a hose originating from the back of the engine. What is this and why am I getting rid of it?
#12
Ahh du ma! El Es Juan!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 2,691
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Originally Posted by jic
with all that time listing the stuff to do, you shoulda started on the first half of the list
gl with puttin it all together
gl with puttin it all together
#15
I think there may be two kinds of dip sticks. One is flat, thin, and flexible. That is the kind my car came with. Then I got a new dipstick with my last rebuild, and it was stiff and round. The new one was very hard to get in and out (I have a GReddy elbow). I switched back to the old one because it works so much better.
For those that are having trouble, does your car have a round or a flat dip stick? (That was the least-gay wording I could muster .)
The hose that is eliminated by the GReddy elbow is for the AWS (accelerated warm-up system). That system exists only to warm up the cats quickly to reduce emissions. Be aware that the car will still idle somewhat high when cold even without a functional AWS. I plugged mine by removing the hose and placing a rubber cap and a hose clamp over the metal pipe that it connects to on the firewall side of the UIM. A HELP! brand water hose cap from your local auto parts store will work, I don't recall the size, pehaps 5/8"? If you live in a cold climate and have issues with stalling after capping the line, you could consider having a nipple welded into the GReddy elbow, or drill and tap a hole and thread one in. I don't recommend venting the AWS because I got oil all over the place when I tried that.
-Max
For those that are having trouble, does your car have a round or a flat dip stick? (That was the least-gay wording I could muster .)
The hose that is eliminated by the GReddy elbow is for the AWS (accelerated warm-up system). That system exists only to warm up the cats quickly to reduce emissions. Be aware that the car will still idle somewhat high when cold even without a functional AWS. I plugged mine by removing the hose and placing a rubber cap and a hose clamp over the metal pipe that it connects to on the firewall side of the UIM. A HELP! brand water hose cap from your local auto parts store will work, I don't recall the size, pehaps 5/8"? If you live in a cold climate and have issues with stalling after capping the line, you could consider having a nipple welded into the GReddy elbow, or drill and tap a hole and thread one in. I don't recommend venting the AWS because I got oil all over the place when I tried that.
-Max
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