All of this is currently underway, it's going to look SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET when it's done. Will run like a champ too =)

I'll post some before and after pictures when it's all finished =)

Underhood

Includes:

1. Replace missing O-Ring on Throttle Body

2. Inspect all block off plates for proper seal

3. Add T4 Gasket to Exhaust Manifold

4. Locate and repair exhaust leak in engine bay

5. Replace 3.5" V-Band exhaust clamp

6. Fabricate & Install fuel pressure regulator mounts

7. Install polished coolant filler neck

8. Inspect & repair/replace (as required) electrical harness & connectors

9. Route driver's side engine harness correctly

10. Weatherproof all unused connectors

11. Wrap wiring harnesses with heat tape

12. Rewire fan system to go straight to high when activated

13. Compression test engine

14. Install dipstick

15. Install power steering cap

16. Tighten loose wiper arm

17. Check over vacuum lines, verify & zip-tie all connections

18. Wrap battery with heat reflective bubble wrap

19. Locate and repair small oil leak in turbo area

20. Reroute radiator hose

21. Test radiator cap pressure and pressure test coolant system

22. Install new K&N Filter

23. Re-clock turbo to get more hood clearance

24. Replace alternator

Interior

1. Install methanol low-level indicator system

2. Rewire fuel pump power system for constant 13.5V operation

3. Rewire entire auxiliary power system for aftermarket items

4. Rewire boost controller (including all additional functions)

5. Get rid of kink in boost gauge line

6. Mount boost controller in DIN caddy

7. Replace Pillar Pod

8. Rewire aftermarket gauge illumination

9. Secure rear strut tower brace covers

10. Install ECU Cover

11. Install trim by driver's right knee

Exterior

1. Replace wheel hub/bearings

2. Verify level (side to side) ride height

3. Aim Headlights

4. Install clutch inspection cover

Added

1. Replace passenger door grab handle

2. Replace methanol reservoir

3. Fabricate ducting for intercooler/radiator air flow

4. Replace rubber fuel lines with stainless lines

5. Fabricate 34 row single oil cooler kit & install

6. Fabricate and install 4" catback & add 4.0" V-band on downpipe

7. Install differential brace

8. Replace transmission fluid

9. Re-torque knock sensor

10. Replace oil pressure sensor

11. Shorten turbo oil supply line

12. Roll both front fender lips

More

1. Troubleshoot battery drain

2. Troubleshoot boost controller operation

3. Fix driver's physical door lock

4. Troubleshoot power door lock actuators

5. Troubleshoot inoperable EGT gauge

6. Pull out dents

Outside Labor

1. Alignment

2. Dyno Time

 

with all that time listing the stuff to do, you shoulda started on the first half of the list
gl with puttin it all together

 

lets make it nice and simple... cliff notes : money money money money money more money and more money and... time.

 

install dipstick......

 

Yeah, its a lot of dumb stuff... dipstick, fluid cap... just a list of all that needs to be done.... LOL

I broke the last one trying to manuever it around the greddy elbow, has to go in just right... lol.

 

I hear ya about the greddy elbow, makes it a royal pain to check the oil level.

 

Speaking of the greddy elbow. I've got one here and it eliminates a hose originating from the back of the engine. What is this and why am I getting rid of it?

 

The stock elbow and greddy elbow shouldn't be different, unless i am missing something...

I believe one is shorter than the other, and obviously aluminum rather than plastic.

 

Greddy elbow is more beefier at the corner part so checking dipstick is a pain. Im paranoid of ruining the finish of the greddy elbow so when i check the oil, i bend it as im pulling up or putting it back so it wont rub on the elbow.

To the poster, good luck with the project, i can tell its gonna be a beast.

 

Part of the AWS, routes air around the double throttle when cold.

 

Yeah i hear ya on the list of stuff to do. I am in the same boat and my list is probably alot longer but im to lazy to type it all out.

 

 

 

so uhhh. im guessing a need a block off plate to get rif of the aws to use the greddy elbow?

 

I think there may be two kinds of dip sticks. One is flat, thin, and flexible. That is the kind my car came with. Then I got a new dipstick with my last rebuild, and it was stiff and round. The new one was very hard to get in and out (I have a GReddy elbow). I switched back to the old one because it works so much better.

For those that are having trouble, does your car have a round or a flat dip stick? (That was the least-gay wording I could muster .)

The hose that is eliminated by the GReddy elbow is for the AWS (accelerated warm-up system). That system exists only to warm up the cats quickly to reduce emissions. Be aware that the car will still idle somewhat high when cold even without a functional AWS. I plugged mine by removing the hose and placing a rubber cap and a hose clamp over the metal pipe that it connects to on the firewall side of the UIM. A HELP! brand water hose cap from your local auto parts store will work, I don't recall the size, pehaps 5/8"? If you live in a cold climate and have issues with stalling after capping the line, you could consider having a nipple welded into the GReddy elbow, or drill and tap a hole and thread one in. I don't recommend venting the AWS because I got oil all over the place when I tried that.

-Max