HKS Twin Power Ignition - who has it and just how good is it?
Insomniac,
I have heard a lot of great things about the B&M NEW VOLT. It can throw 18volts for street or 20volts for race.
Its different then the HKS, ULTRA and a few others.
This is how I understand it.
The B&M, Jacobs, MSD, are amplifiers.
The HKS, ULTRA are , hum like amps but they dont make it more then 12volts, they just keep backup power so if you suddenly stomp on the gas you will still have the same 12volts vise the stock dripping down to 11.5volts or depending on the condition of your coils.
If your car is getting old, you have a big turbo or even a side port, I recommend any of these, it will get all your power out of the car. Just be careful of the BIG AMPS, because they will FRY your coils..
Jason
www.jt-imports.com
I have heard a lot of great things about the B&M NEW VOLT. It can throw 18volts for street or 20volts for race.
Its different then the HKS, ULTRA and a few others.
This is how I understand it.
The B&M, Jacobs, MSD, are amplifiers.
The HKS, ULTRA are , hum like amps but they dont make it more then 12volts, they just keep backup power so if you suddenly stomp on the gas you will still have the same 12volts vise the stock dripping down to 11.5volts or depending on the condition of your coils.
If your car is getting old, you have a big turbo or even a side port, I recommend any of these, it will get all your power out of the car. Just be careful of the BIG AMPS, because they will FRY your coils..
Jason
www.jt-imports.com
If the twin power makes the car run leaner (thus making it smoother) and then you add fuel to be on the safe side, won't it negate all advantages that you gained by leaning out the mixture???
Or am I just being stupid, because the spark will still be stronger...
just wondering,
kyle
Or am I just being stupid, because the spark will still be stronger...
just wondering,
kyle
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 443
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From: Minnesota, now in FL and I dont think I'm goin back
I thought if u add fuel u are richer which = slower and u take away fuel, leaner= faster. Although you dont want to go to lean= detonation =-) correct me if im wrong
Right, sort of. If you have an adjustable ecu, notice the A/F ratios before you install it. They should be nice and safe. You add an ignition system, and then you notice that your going to close to edge of being to lean, since the ignition system is helping burn up that extra bit of fuel you had tuned in to be safe and on the rich side. You'd just want to add some fuel to be back in the rich/safer side of the line between rich and lean. Now if the cars running, well to rich to begin with (ex.10.5 to 1) and you add the ignition system and it burns up some fuel and you end up being at the 11.4 to 1 range which is still safe, then you wouldn't need to add any fuel unless you just wanted to fatten it up a little for your own piece of mind.
Tim
Tim
How does burning more fuel increase the chances of detonation? Maybe the measured AFRs at the exhaust will be higher with more fuel burned, but this does not change the true air fuel ratio in the combustion chamber, which is a primary factor in detonation. Maybe the increased temperatures resulting from a better burn increase detonation?
Could someone who knows please explain this?
Could someone who knows please explain this?
Originally posted by Aristo
How does burning more fuel increase the chances of detonation? Maybe the measured AFRs at the exhaust will be higher with more fuel burned, but this does not change the true air fuel ratio in the combustion chamber, which is a primary factor in detonation. Maybe the increased temperatures resulting from a better burn increase detonation?
Could someone who knows please explain this?
How does burning more fuel increase the chances of detonation? Maybe the measured AFRs at the exhaust will be higher with more fuel burned, but this does not change the true air fuel ratio in the combustion chamber, which is a primary factor in detonation. Maybe the increased temperatures resulting from a better burn increase detonation?
Could someone who knows please explain this?
You basically answered you own question. Its the combustion of the fuel and head that normally causes detonation. The richer you are the cooler you burn BUT the harder it is on your ignition system because they have a hard time burning all the fuel. Your stock system cant combust it all, you throw a amp on it and wola, now you can combust all the fuel which creates a longer burn but that adds more heat. You can add just a little more fuel to keep the ratio at a safe level if need be.
You run more boost you add more fuel, even if you keep the same a/f ratio as you add mods your still running a higher volume of air and fuel and its harder for your ignition to burn so much mixture.....this is why you upgrade you ignition or add amps depending on how much spark you need.
Personally I think throwing a amp on the T like the HKS is a waist of money unless your running super high boost and HP like Gordon or Steve Kan, OR if your running no split. The reason is your L combusts a good 85% of the mixture which leaves only 15% of the mixture for T to combust. The stock T shouldnt have any problem cumbusting that small amount of remaining mixture.
Unless your running no split (which means your L & T fire together) your main concern should be L. I'd want to get as much power to Leading as possible without frying the coils.
I choose to buy one MSD to run on Leading for about $300 less than the HKS.
Why pay $300 extra to amp your Trailing?
I'm sure not everyone agrees with me but thats ok, it my .02
STEPHEN
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 102
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From: Silicon Valley Bay Area
So the Trailing is not for HP, but for emission reasons?
IN theory does this mean if i disconnect the Trailing wires on straight pipe exhaust I should get a good fire show?
IN theory does this mean if i disconnect the Trailing wires on straight pipe exhaust I should get a good fire show?
Originally posted by SPOautos
You basically answered you own question. Its the combustion of the fuel and head that normally causes detonation. The richer you are the cooler you burn BUT the harder it is on your ignition system because they have a hard time burning all the fuel. Your stock system cant combust it all, you throw a amp on it and wola, now you can combust all the fuel which creates a longer burn but that adds more heat. You can add just a little more fuel to keep the ratio at a safe level if need be.
You run more boost you add more fuel, even if you keep the same a/f ratio as you add mods your still running a higher volume of air and fuel and its harder for your ignition to burn so much mixture.....this is why you upgrade you ignition or add amps depending on how much spark you need.
Personally I think throwing a amp on the T like the HKS is a waist of money unless your running super high boost and HP like Gordon or Steve Kan, OR if your running no split. The reason is your L combusts a good 85% of the mixture which leaves only 15% of the mixture for T to combust. The stock T shouldnt have any problem cumbusting that small amount of remaining mixture.
Unless your running no split (which means your L & T fire together) your main concern should be L. I'd want to get as much power to Leading as possible without frying the coils.
I choose to buy one MSD to run on Leading for about $300 less than the HKS.
Why pay $300 extra to amp your Trailing?
I'm sure not everyone agrees with me but thats ok, it my .02
STEPHEN
You basically answered you own question. Its the combustion of the fuel and head that normally causes detonation. The richer you are the cooler you burn BUT the harder it is on your ignition system because they have a hard time burning all the fuel. Your stock system cant combust it all, you throw a amp on it and wola, now you can combust all the fuel which creates a longer burn but that adds more heat. You can add just a little more fuel to keep the ratio at a safe level if need be.
You run more boost you add more fuel, even if you keep the same a/f ratio as you add mods your still running a higher volume of air and fuel and its harder for your ignition to burn so much mixture.....this is why you upgrade you ignition or add amps depending on how much spark you need.
Personally I think throwing a amp on the T like the HKS is a waist of money unless your running super high boost and HP like Gordon or Steve Kan, OR if your running no split. The reason is your L combusts a good 85% of the mixture which leaves only 15% of the mixture for T to combust. The stock T shouldnt have any problem cumbusting that small amount of remaining mixture.
Unless your running no split (which means your L & T fire together) your main concern should be L. I'd want to get as much power to Leading as possible without frying the coils.
I choose to buy one MSD to run on Leading for about $300 less than the HKS.
Why pay $300 extra to amp your Trailing?
I'm sure not everyone agrees with me but thats ok, it my .02
STEPHEN
And it won't burn out your coils!!! Its a Win, Win kind of thing.
I havent heard of the MSD's frying the coils and you can pick up a 6a for $160. Most people dont do that cause they figure to fire everything you'd need 3 which would cost $480 and take up huge amounts of space.
BUT, what I'm saying is Trailing is basically for emmissions and really only combusts a small amount of the mixture. The Leading fires fist combusting the majority of the mixture then Trailing just burns the left overs. Unless your running extremely high boost I dont really see much need to spend $300 to amp the Trailing. I'd rather spend $160 and get stronger power to the L
STEPHEN
BUT, what I'm saying is Trailing is basically for emmissions and really only combusts a small amount of the mixture. The Leading fires fist combusting the majority of the mixture then Trailing just burns the left overs. Unless your running extremely high boost I dont really see much need to spend $300 to amp the Trailing. I'd rather spend $160 and get stronger power to the L
STEPHEN
I don't think the amps really make you run leaner, but the indicated a:f appears leaner. When in reality, the richer a:f indicated before the amp was incorrect because of unburned fuel making it into the exhaust.
Wade
Wade
Originally posted by matty
at what rwhp point to you need to upgrade, Are we talking stock twin power or single turbo power
at what rwhp point to you need to upgrade, Are we talking stock twin power or single turbo power
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,643
Likes: 0
From: l.a.
if you get an ignition then add fuel to get it back to the same a/f ratio as before you will not make more power. think about it, the only way you make more power is if you add air or go leaner. if you a/f is exactly the same as before and you're not boosting anymore, you have neither added air nor are you running leaner. you will be basically making the same power, rendering your ignition upgrade useless.







