HKS Twin Power: Ideal for a relatively stock FD?
Eh, not sure about this.
I've posted like 17 million times on this subject, but cliff notes:
I ran different Jacobs boxes for years and was pretty happy with them, although their penchant for failure led me to try the HK$ twinpower out.
In a nutshell, I was very happy. Better idle, better throttle response, better pull at all rpms. Granted I'm running a single setup with 400+ rwhp, but idle and driveability were greatly increased over both the Jacobs setup and also running no amp. I wish I would have installed one many years ago to be honest
I've posted like 17 million times on this subject, but cliff notes:
I ran different Jacobs boxes for years and was pretty happy with them, although their penchant for failure led me to try the HK$ twinpower out.
In a nutshell, I was very happy. Better idle, better throttle response, better pull at all rpms. Granted I'm running a single setup with 400+ rwhp, but idle and driveability were greatly increased over both the Jacobs setup and also running no amp. I wish I would have installed one many years ago to be honest

In a nutshell, I was very happy. Better idle, better throttle response, better pull at all rpms. Granted I'm running a single setup with 400+ rwhp, but idle and driveability were greatly increased over both the Jacobs setup and also running no amp. I wish I would have installed one many years ago to be honest

If you get the Twin Power with the harness, it can be hooked up in less than 10 seconds. Mounting the box will be another 2-3 minutes.
Faster than every oil change?
well i dont know if it's due to the hks tp but i think it is... my ait sensor is faulty and sometimes get ridiculous negative temps forcing the car to dump fuel, and get 10:1 (my afr sensor lower limit so it could be less) at idle and pretty much all the map. It still runs smoothly except for some times at idle it wants to die. it never floods and my 10 heat range spark plugs won't foul...
i also ran 17psi to redline at 10:1 with no break up...
i also ran 17psi to redline at 10:1 with no break up...
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 4
From: california
well i dont know if it's due to the hks tp but i think it is... my ait sensor is faulty and sometimes get ridiculous negative temps forcing the car to dump fuel, and get 10:1 (my afr sensor lower limit so it could be less) at idle and pretty much all the map. It still runs smoothly except for some times at idle it wants to die. it never floods and my 10 heat range spark plugs won't foul...
i also ran 17psi to redline at 10:1 with no break up...
i also ran 17psi to redline at 10:1 with no break up...
never heard of an ignition amp causing these kinds of problems must be something else going on. do you have a pfc? if so run a sensor check and see whats going on. simple test would be to put the car back to stock and see if your problems go away
Jeff
no no, i guess i worded it wrong. i'm praising the hks tp! the problem is due to the faulty ait sensor that causes the car to run pig rich.
Thanks to the hks the car runs smooth even with the excess fuel, the car doesn't flood and the plugs don't foul. I hope its clearer now...
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 4
From: california
yes... if your car is tuned your obviously running more boost and fuel over stock. so an ignition upgrade would only help. its not going to make you run lean enough to cause your tune to be off in anyway. you can run it on a completely stock car without any problems.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 4
From: california
twinpower
if your tune is so far on the edge that an ignition amp is going to cause your motor to pop its not the cause of the amp its the tune. the twinpower will not cause you motor to blow in anyway. I would say its a very very slight lean condition but more of a complete combustion burn
Jeff
Jeff
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