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Here is what happens when you remove the airpump

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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 04:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by darkside7
I would love to use this in my car. Unfortunately, I don't think it will work with my long runner manifold with my single turbo.

Eddie

Eddie,
I have a T78 with no clearance for this, but Dan has something in the works for us as well. I'll be looking forward to seeing what he comes up with.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by memphisraines82
Eddie,
I have a T78 with no clearance for this, but Dan has something in the works for us as well. I'll be looking forward to seeing what he comes up with.
Sweet.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by memphisraines82
Eddie,
I have a T78 with no clearance for this, but Dan has something in the works for us as well. I'll be looking forward to seeing what he comes up with.
I’m hoping to make a preliminary mock up this weekend and have a prototype cut next week. My goal will be to use as many parts from the first kit to reduce prototype expense and possibly give the ones who buy the current model an upgrade path if they switch over to single.

Dan
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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Please keep us updated when you can Dan.

Eddie
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 07:41 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by darkside7
Please keep us updated when you can Dan.

Eddie
Will do.

Dan
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #31  
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I'm pretty sure I got the bracket for the single turbo guys figured out. I'm going to try and get a prototype cut this week and will post up pictures as soon as I get it in my hands.

Dan
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 01:38 AM
  #32  
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Dan

You are using the SR Motorsports wide grip pulley set. Would you go that route again??

Julian
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 07:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Julian
Dan

You are using the SR Motorsports wide grip pulley set. Would you go that route again??

Julian
When I was building my motor Pineapple was no longer making their idler pulley so I bought the SR wide grip to increase the contact patch on the water pump. I knew I had to do something, but had no other options. It didn't work as well as I had hoped so I developed my own idler.

Knowing what I know now I would have just developed my idler and saved the money of replacing my old under drive set. The thing is the water pump and alternator are such low load devices even a 4 rib belt could handle the load with a proper contact patch.

Dan
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:33 AM
  #34  
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nm
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Chadwick
With a brand new properly designed water pump pulley and a new belt I don't disagree. Problem is the nice edges on the groves of the water pump pulley wear off with time and the back of the belt gets smoothed out and hard.

You could keep treating the symptoms by replacing the belt and/or pulley or correct the actual problem of having to small of a contact patch by adding an idler pulley.

If you feel comfortable with your setup, more power to you, but don’t mind me sticking to what I know from personal experience.
no question the idler pulley is the best solution, but I can easily turn my water pump pulley by hand and it been that way for years since chucking the air pump...my water temps never get above 85 C so it's doing it's job, I think it has to be pretty loose before it starts slipping, and it seems like you would notice
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 01:18 PM
  #36  
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Good stuff right here.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 01:30 PM
  #37  
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Nice write up.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #38  
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I have figured out the bracket for the single turbo guys. I just need to source a bearing to handle the extra rpm from the smaller pulley. I'm still waiting for the prototype to be cut but the one I handmade fits perfect.

I have added a list to the group buy thread to judge interest, if I get enough onboard I will move forward with production.

Dan
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 06:04 PM
  #39  
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Hi Dan,

what will be the price? You can put me down for the single turbo version.

Eddie
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 06:51 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by darkside7
Hi Dan,

what will be the price? You can put me down for the single turbo version.

Eddie
Just depends on the cost of the bearing, it has to be rated to turn almost twice as fast. Other costs should be about the same, so I think the finished cost will be slightly more.

Dan
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 10:38 PM
  #41  
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I am in for the single turbo setup... let us know.
You can PM me if you can whenever its ready to go.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 10:50 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by oyy0
I am in for the single turbo setup... let us know.
You can PM me if you can whenever its ready to go.
Just add your name to the group buy feeler list and I will contact. Link is in my signature.

Dan
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 11:05 PM
  #43  
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I have the prototype bracket for the single turbo guys now and will post pictures as soon as I find my camera.

Basically if you have 3/4" clearance from the water pump housing on the turbo side it will work for you. The pulley will be mounted between the upper and lower radiator hoses and of course on the same plane as the water pump and main pulley.

Pulley size will be about the same as the alternator pulley. If I remember correctly the bearing will be a double sealed stainless steel ball bearing rated and 24,000 rpm between 500 to 1000lbs of load.

If you are interested, follow the link for the group buy in my signature.

Dan
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 06:45 PM
  #44  
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Here are some pictures of the finished pulley kit and the new Single prototype:





New Single Turbo Prototype pulley kit:





When complete the pulley on the single turbo kit will look like the first kit but smaller. We just used the Alt pulley for test fitting.

Dan
Attached Thumbnails Here is what happens when you remove the airpump-pulley1.jpg   Here is what happens when you remove the airpump-pulley2.jpg   Here is what happens when you remove the airpump-single3.jpg   Here is what happens when you remove the airpump-single4.jpg  
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 07:48 PM
  #45  
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The single turbo idler pulley kit is going into production, just follow the link in my signature for the group buy.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #46  
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VA Removed Air Pump

Removed the airpump and installed the Pettit kit (water pump pulley and new belt) and everything turns great. Belts are set to factory tension.
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by garydowns
Removed the airpump and installed the Pettit kit (water pump pulley and new belt) and everything turns great. Belts are set to factory tension.
You might want to read this: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/aluminum-underdrive-pulleys-maintainence-item-781445/


Dan
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #48  
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i just removed my air pump last night with the pettit kit and i couldnt believe the belt barely has any contact with the water pump compared to stock set up, so i know i still shouldnt over tighten the belt but when is it tight enough to stop so this wont happen? ASAP PLEASE
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by vjm117
i just removed my air pump last night with the pettit kit and i couldnt believe the belt barely has any contact with the water pump compared to stock set up, so i know i still shouldnt over tighten the belt but when is it tight enough to stop so this wont happen? ASAP PLEASE
Buy Chadwick's water pump idler pulley kit and solve the problem permanently:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=810990

I have this on my car and it holds the belt nice and tight around the water pump without much tension on the belt at all.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Chadwick
On a side note, are you guys headed to DGRR this year, would love to meet you in person.
/sidenote Ill be there, i know i dont have the reputation of Goodfellas, but im interested in meeting everyone else too :-D

So having an underdrive kit and not tightening it to the extreme would result in reduced coolant flow? more localized heat? or what
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