Help with Throttle Body and spark plugs
#1
Help with Throttle Body and spark plugs
Hi guys, so today I decided to put good use to my spark plugs and wires instead of letting them collect dust. I took off everything and was on the throttle body. There was the coolant hose connected to the bottom of the throttle body that i couldn't get. I tried forcing the throttle body out but that didn't work(hopefully i didn't break anything). As a last resort i cut the coolant hose. If i tape the hose back together and bring it to autozone or an autostore to get it measured for another hose, would the new hose work? For the spark plug wires do i just pull them out? I was a little scared of using force. That's pretty much where I left off. Do i need to use anti sieze for the spark plugs and would vacuum hose lube make it easier to take off the coolant hose next time?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
*The typical auto parts stores should be able to get you a hose that would work, but personally I would order another hose from MAZDA. Vacuum hose WILL NOT WORK.
*Yes, you need low-temp (silver) anti-seize. Just a little on the threads of each plug. Careful not to get any on the business end.
*Remove and replace each plug one at a time so you don't cross wires and careful not to mix plugs. Leading = low..Trailing=Top. If the wire/boots are sticking try turning them as you pull straight out. I prefer to re-install with a little dialectric grease.
While I realize the FSM instructs you to change plugs from above I'm not sure they instruct you to remove the t-body. Regardless...many, myself included have found it much easier to do from below with a proper jack and stands
*Yes, you need low-temp (silver) anti-seize. Just a little on the threads of each plug. Careful not to get any on the business end.
*Remove and replace each plug one at a time so you don't cross wires and careful not to mix plugs. Leading = low..Trailing=Top. If the wire/boots are sticking try turning them as you pull straight out. I prefer to re-install with a little dialectric grease.
While I realize the FSM instructs you to change plugs from above I'm not sure they instruct you to remove the t-body. Regardless...many, myself included have found it much easier to do from below with a proper jack and stands
#3
Bubblicious DEF.
iTrader: (36)
^^ +1
IIRC, the hose is a 90* bend. having hose cut will just be the same length and kink when u bend it. i would just look through thier hoses they have in stock, find something wtih a 90* bend and cut that section off, that way it is kink free.
just pull on the sprak plug wires (up motion from the direction the sprak plug is facing) they should CLICK when they are properly secured in
IIRC, the hose is a 90* bend. having hose cut will just be the same length and kink when u bend it. i would just look through thier hoses they have in stock, find something wtih a 90* bend and cut that section off, that way it is kink free.
just pull on the sprak plug wires (up motion from the direction the sprak plug is facing) they should CLICK when they are properly secured in
#5
Autozone didn't have any of the 90 bends. They ended up giving me a vaccuum hose. Sgtblue that hose wouldn't work right? Does it prevent the coolant from flowing or something?
So basically put anti sieze on the thread and just torque it? I'll try to change all the plugs and wires then come back to check on the reply for my coolant hose. Thanks FD3s for the youtube vid.
So basically put anti sieze on the thread and just torque it? I'll try to change all the plugs and wires then come back to check on the reply for my coolant hose. Thanks FD3s for the youtube vid.
#7
Oh. It has to be a 90 degree angle right? I also have a question about the spark plug wires. I pushed my magnecores all the way until they were tight. It doesn't seem like they go all the way to the end like my stock spark plug wires did. Is this right? I think the rubber ends were shorter than the stock ones, but i'm not sure.
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#10
Oh haha i'll ask chuck later today or tomorrow. I only managed to get one plug and wire in. Not sure if the wire is in all the way. First time using a torque wrench too so i hope my plug is torqued right. FD3S2005 that video was very helpful haha. I'll try to see if i can hear a click tomorrow when i do it.
#11
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
*You didn't mention changing wires. Many have issues with aftermaket and few have a need for anything other than OEM. Are you changing wires now because you damaged one of the originals?
*Silicone hose WILL NOT WORK. It will eventually fail. It's not designed for the pressure and contact with the coolant. Get a proper coolant hose. The OEM hose is pre-bent and the right size. That's why I thought you should get one. No barbed fittings, no long loup to avoid kinking and worrying about leaks.
*Silicone hose WILL NOT WORK. It will eventually fail. It's not designed for the pressure and contact with the coolant. Get a proper coolant hose. The OEM hose is pre-bent and the right size. That's why I thought you should get one. No barbed fittings, no long loup to avoid kinking and worrying about leaks.
#12
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
It's extremely doubtful you'll find a replacement hose for that without going to Mazda. Order the proper hose if you want to keep coolant running to the TB. You can do this in the mean time as a temporary workaround (or a permanent solution):
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/throttle_body_coolant.htm
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/throttle_body_coolant.htm
#14
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
I believe the phrase is 'do it right, do it once.'
The OEM coolant hoses aren't that much more expensive than a generic aftermarket hose from your local parts store... and they are much cheaper than having the car towed to a repair shop, or having an engine rebuilt or replaced because of an aftermarket hose failure. Ray from Malloy has always been great: the prices are reasonable, the shipping is pretty quick, and he's very good at finding the correct part based on a description.
Malloy Mazda contact info:
(888) 533-3400 , (703) 490-8170 , fax: (703) 490-3864 , hmkparts@aol.com
The OEM coolant hoses aren't that much more expensive than a generic aftermarket hose from your local parts store... and they are much cheaper than having the car towed to a repair shop, or having an engine rebuilt or replaced because of an aftermarket hose failure. Ray from Malloy has always been great: the prices are reasonable, the shipping is pretty quick, and he's very good at finding the correct part based on a description.
Malloy Mazda contact info:
(888) 533-3400 , (703) 490-8170 , fax: (703) 490-3864 , hmkparts@aol.com
Last edited by scotty305; 08-14-11 at 03:02 PM.
#15
@sgtblue the originals are still there and working. I bought ngk spark plugs and magnecore wires a couple months ago so i decided to do them both. How long do wires usually last? The previous owner kept the car stock and i don't know if he changed them yet. It's 120k miles so far. Are there any signs I should look for when i start up the car to know if the wires are working properly or not? I think i'll just buy the replacement hose then haha, Better safe than sorry.
@ Mahjik Thanks for the link but it looks like too much work, i'm just gong to get the replacement one. Thanks though
@FD3S2005 and scotty305 thanks for the contact info. I'll give him a call today. Do I ask for the 90 degree bent coolant hose under the throttle body?
@ Mahjik Thanks for the link but it looks like too much work, i'm just gong to get the replacement one. Thanks though
@FD3S2005 and scotty305 thanks for the contact info. I'll give him a call today. Do I ask for the 90 degree bent coolant hose under the throttle body?
#17
Oh alright thanks Sgtblue i'll keep the stock ones as backup or something. Well I come today to bring bad news =(. I got 3 spark plugs in except the one near the powersteering fluid. The hose connected to the powersteering fluid is not allowing me to torque it. The REALLY bad news is my distributor cap thing cracked off. When I pulled of the sparkplug wire off the top it came off but it also took the black part with it. My question is can I super glue it back and still be able to use it or do i need a new distributor. I'm really sad right now. Can't believe that happened.
#18
I'll try to give a better explanation. You know the part where the spark plug wire is connected to? The black piece, i think its plastic. When i pulled off the wire it cracked that black piece and pulled a piece off. I can see the metal piece inside that touches the spark plug wires metal piece. I think the black piece is so the outside of the spark plug wire can wrap around it. Will i be able to glue that back or would i need a whole new distributor?
Thanks so much
Thanks so much
#20
Oh Is the actual coil broken though? It was just the black tip that held the metal thing inside. The metal part is still intact and would be able to connect to the spark plug wire. Can I be able to glue the black plastic part back again? Does mazda still sell the coils?
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