Help with R1 Strut Brace
05-09-02, 12:56 PM
#26
Ex fd *****
From the first pic of the drivers side it looks very cloose to fitting, Try also loosening the third bolt on each side so you can shift the shock mount slightly also. from the pics you should be able to force the bar into place once the suspension is unloaded and all the mount bolts are loosened don't remove the third one totally or the spring/shock/mount assembly will fall down when you lift the car!
05-09-02, 01:13 PM
#27
I dunno, I agree with Donovan. I think it will fit. The strut tower bolts are angled slightly inward so are closer together at the top than at the base. Easily a 1/8 inch difference per side. Having had my bar off and on so many times I can't count it will not just drop on when reinstalling it. Mount one side as you have but do NOT bolt down tight. Then on the other side get the inner stud in the hole first then rotate the mount to slip over the outer bolt. I don't recommend any pounding or banging as you might damage the stud threads. I do agree that jacking up the car to unload the suspension as a good idea and then also loosening that third nut as there is some free play in the upper strut mount. Keep at it and good luck we're rooting for ya.
Crispy
PS might wanna get a haircut too it might be getting in the way
Crispy
PS might wanna get a haircut too it might be getting in the way
05-09-02, 01:27 PM
#28
Originally posted by Donovan
Try pivoting the ends a bit. When I remove mine to work on the motor, I just remove one side like you have it. When I go to put it back on I have to work it a bit. I usually turn the end so the outboard bolt goes on then kinda bang it down over the inner one. Also loosen the bolts on the other side as they may give you some slack, then tighten all of them at the same time.
Try pivoting the ends a bit. When I remove mine to work on the motor, I just remove one side like you have it. When I go to put it back on I have to work it a bit. I usually turn the end so the outboard bolt goes on then kinda bang it down over the inner one. Also loosen the bolts on the other side as they may give you some slack, then tighten all of them at the same time.
Judging from the pics of the engine compartment your car looks pretty clean, I doubt it has frame damage. Post a couple pics of the entire engine bay.
Jeff
05-09-02, 01:34 PM
#29
Senior Member
I have to agree with what everyone is saying here. My Cusco 'D' bar never goes on perfectly. My trick is to pivot the ends and place them over the bolts. I never bolt down one side while the other is still completely off the bolts, this creates a poor angle for the bar. Bottom line...I try to keep the bar as horizontal as possible and pivot the ends as needed. Going by your pictures, it doesn't seem that you that far off. Good luck!
05-09-02, 06:37 PM
#33
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Thanks for the responses everyone. Sounds like good advice and I'll try the suggestions this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.
BTW, if I sell the brace, I'm not taking less than $180 shipped.......
TurboJeff: here's some engine pics
BTW, if I sell the brace, I'm not taking less than $180 shipped.......
TurboJeff: here's some engine pics
05-09-02, 07:00 PM
#35
From the looks of that engine compartment I'd REALLY REALLY doubt that the car is bent. Here are a couple things to look for (couldn't see in the pics).
If the hood fits between the fenders with an even gap on both sides. If the hood fits between the fenders and the fender bolt holes aren't slotted then the car is the correct width.
If the car has original fenders there are a couple holes covered with painted cloth covers in the area where the fender bolts to the body. If the cloth covers are there then that means you have original fenders, further indicating that the car isn't bent.
Have you tried to loosen up the ends of the brace and force it on? You might try lifting the center part of the brace and let the ends droop. When you have the holes lined up push the center down.
Good luck! Nice looking engine bay. Your car probably IS NOT bent, don't worry about it.
I don't know if this just posted, on the top pic I think I can see the cloth covers on the holes in the fenders, those are original fenders. Fenders are cheap and easy to replace, if they are original it probably hasn't ever been hit, at least in the front.
Jeff
If the hood fits between the fenders with an even gap on both sides. If the hood fits between the fenders and the fender bolt holes aren't slotted then the car is the correct width.
If the car has original fenders there are a couple holes covered with painted cloth covers in the area where the fender bolts to the body. If the cloth covers are there then that means you have original fenders, further indicating that the car isn't bent.
Have you tried to loosen up the ends of the brace and force it on? You might try lifting the center part of the brace and let the ends droop. When you have the holes lined up push the center down.
Good luck! Nice looking engine bay. Your car probably IS NOT bent, don't worry about it.
I don't know if this just posted, on the top pic I think I can see the cloth covers on the holes in the fenders, those are original fenders. Fenders are cheap and easy to replace, if they are original it probably hasn't ever been hit, at least in the front.
Jeff
05-10-02, 12:52 AM
#37
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
TurboJeff: Yeah, the fenders are original. However, I did notice something a little strange. On the passenger side fender, it looks like the fender has been rebolted down as I can see a sliver of the bolt circle around where it's bolted down now. Sorry for the poor description.
I will try to get the brace on tomorrow afternoon after work. Once again, thanks for all the info guys.
Johnny: You've got dibs on the brace if I decide to sell it, I think I've seen you post before that you've been looking for one for a while.
I will try to get the brace on tomorrow afternoon after work. Once again, thanks for all the info guys.
Johnny: You've got dibs on the brace if I decide to sell it, I think I've seen you post before that you've been looking for one for a while.
05-10-02, 01:18 AM
#38
Full Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Irvine, Ca
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bay area,,,,,, There is one shop i know of up there, that was at one time was bmw certified, (meaning they use unibody bench systems and good paint materials) lost it only recently becuase of the paint materials were not on the aproved list for certification, anywayz, i cant remember the name of the shop but if i do ill drop a line, in the mean time should you be in southern california i know two shops that can do it and do it well, one is the shop i work for, we use factory certified repair methods and aproved materials, we also have uni-body frame bench's the name of the place is class auto and its in long beach, the second place a half an hour southbound is spectrum collision they are the only bmw certified repair shop left in CA, (BMW repair standards are really really really high, believe me i know,, and mazda currently doesnt have a certification program for body repair) if your interested in visiting any of the two shops drop me a line email wise some time, or wait a lil while and ill come up with the name for that sanfran place i know of.
05-17-02, 02:17 PM
#41
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Well, I had Rick at Rick's Rotary take a look at it when I was having my oil changed and guess what?
I'm the not-so-proud winner of the "Idiot of the Week" award.
Turns out the brace was NOT adjusted as short as it would go. He still had to play with it a little bit, but once shortened, it did go on.
The car feels better to drive now, the front end feels like one-piece and the steering feel is better. I highly recommend a strut brace to anyone who doesn't have one.
Thanks for all the help guys, excuse me while I strap on my flame suit.
BTW, nice meeting you Johnny and your car looks very clean and tastefully modded. Very nice.
I'm the not-so-proud winner of the "Idiot of the Week" award.
Turns out the brace was NOT adjusted as short as it would go. He still had to play with it a little bit, but once shortened, it did go on.
The car feels better to drive now, the front end feels like one-piece and the steering feel is better. I highly recommend a strut brace to anyone who doesn't have one.
Thanks for all the help guys, excuse me while I strap on my flame suit.
BTW, nice meeting you Johnny and your car looks very clean and tastefully modded. Very nice.
05-17-02, 03:06 PM
#43
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Glad it worked out for you, and that you had no frame problems. I put a Cusco bar on my car shortly after I got it, and it did make a big difference in the feel of the front end. I recently added the Racing Beat front sway bar mount reinforcement strut, and now my car feels like a go-kart. It is unbelievable how much of a difference these two items combined make in the handloing and feel of the car. check it out:
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm
05-17-02, 05:30 PM
#44
OG
Originally posted by rynberg
BTW, nice meeting you Johnny and your car looks very clean and tastefully modded. Very nice.
BTW, nice meeting you Johnny and your car looks very clean and tastefully modded. Very nice.
