Spanks

I put in my new Fluidyne rad, the install went fine. When I got the car back together, started it up, but it had a hard time starting. It finally did after a back fire. Ran fine, burped the system. Let it cool for the night, started it the next day went to work. On the way at about 45-50 mph in 3rd gear and 4th gears. The car would sputter a little bit, at the same time the entire guage clusters needles would fall like the car was being shut off then a second or 2 later everything would be back to normal. But with a back fire or 2. Then the car would be ok, then it would happen again a little later. Get to work, add some more coolant thru the day, start it up, go home and the same thing with the sputtering thing. Get it home, leave it and look for visual problems, couldnt find anything. Started it up the next day, ran for a bit than shut off, wouldnt start back up until half hour later. On the way to work same thing with sputtering. When I leave it has a hard time starting again. Can anybody help me? The car ran perfectly fine until I put the rad in. But I am having a hard time finding a reason why a new rad would do this to a car. HELP!!!

VegasFD

I'm not sure what the connection between the sputtering and the radiator is, but I remember when I installed my Koyo, I was extremely surprised at how much water/coolant I had to put back in. You lose a lot of coolant during a radiator install.

axr6

Did you remove your battery while changing the radiator?

Sounds to me an electrical problem. Since it effects seemingly everthing, gauges, engine starting.... I suspect that you may have left either a loose battery connection or a ground was not put back to where it belongs. I would start checking along those lines.

Albert

Spanks

I didnt change the battery at that time, although I did a battery relocation a while ago with a 0 AWG connection to the seat belt bolt for ground. The stereo has never shut off while this problem is occuring. Also the coolant level now is up to the top of the filler neck and the over flow is full. But I will go back and have a look at the battery install.
Thanks.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Another "I only did this little change but now it is FUBAR." story.

It means either you messed up something during the radiator install, or it is just bad timing with something breaking at the same time. It does seem like an eletrical problem, so start checking everthing electrical in that area.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

alternator?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Totally sounds like an electrical problem. I had a loose power connection at the fuse block under the hood, and I would get a quick "hiccup" where the gauges would reset and the stereo would reset. Anything electrical you touched in doing that install I would look at. I would also make sure that during the install you didn't bump, rub through, whatever any of the power wires - that could also be a culprit.

Dale

Spanks

Thanks for the responses. I will take everything apart that I had to take apart to put the rad in. I do have a few log files that I pulled off the car, it wont fire up now. It will crank and crank but wont catch. Anybody willing to look at these files for me and try telling me what I might be looking for?
Thanks.

revsteve

iTrader: (6)

hey spanks - a common mistake when installing an aftermarket radiator is pinching the engines wiring harness. Take everything apart VERY carefully and then inspect the harness that rests pretty much in the front bumper.

Maybe you cut the sheath off some wires and they're shorting out. If thats the case, just repair them with some electrical tape and you should be fine. If you cut them, solder them back together and tape them up.

Good luck.

KINETIK_FD3S

if the car is loosing electrical power while driving and he is having trouble starting the car the problem has to be the alternator or its wiring.

Spanks

Ive taken the car apart around the rad, all the harnesses look good, I even removed the tape around the harness leading into the fuse box that resides on the front bumper support. Ive checked to make sure the fuel pump is on, it is. Pressure sits at about 20 psi, this normal? At the fuel pump relay on the bumper support their is a white orange wire that sits at about 6.7 volts when the pump is on. Is this normal? I have reinstalled the battery making sure that the posts and the clamps are tight and the ground cable is tight as well. Where do I go from here?

Spanks

Well just as I expected it wasnt the rad install causing the problem. I found a loose ground on top of the engine block, underneath the ignition coils. Replaced the bolt and I away I went, no more bucking, stalling and misfires. Thanks to all for your help!