Hey every1,
I need some help. My dad has a rule where i cannot mod my FD until i get my car paid off unless it is considered "preventative maintenance". I was allowed to get an alum. AST and a vaccuum job, but he will not let me get a downpipe. If you would post some personal experiences or stories you have heard about ppl who have neglected getting a downpipe and the end results, i'd greatly appreciate it.

Peace,
Zach

PS--i have searched a ton and have printed out many advantages about downpipes...i just need some horror stories about what can happen to your car if you don't get a downpipe.

 

tell him it removes unwanted heat from the engine bay.

 

yeah ive already explained the advantages of putting one in....i think what i need to convince him is what can happen to your car if you dont put one in. Like stories of cars overheating and/or catching on fire because of the pre-cat being collapsed or clogged. stuff like that. I need to prove that a $250 M2 downpipe is worth it so you can prevent a $5k engine swap.

Peace,
Zach

 

Take it for a spirited run and bring it back glowing cherry red. Tell him this 50-lb emissions device only works for cold start emission reduction until it warms up then it serves no purpose whatsoever. Grab a coathanger and cook a hot dog on it until it blisters, then tell him that's what is happening to over 72 expensive vacuum and rubber coolant hoses under a closed hood everytime you shut down.

 

"lol" roast some marsh mellows like Toadman said.

I know the heat and backpressure cooked the seals on my twin turbo. How can you force excessive air by turbo charging and then double clog the flow with two catalitic converters? That's like having Fat Bastard fart through a straw (Mini Me told me to say that).

below is a (edited) quote from Jimlab
-----------------------------------------
There were also a few cars that had their batteries explode, a result of the intense underhood heat, and almost certainly directly attributable to the pre-catalytic converter, but this was apparently not common enough to warrant a recall, or sufficiently troubling to cause Mazda to rethink the inclusion of the pre-cat.
----------------------------------------

oh btw: M2 is $300. The RMS replica/copy is $250.

 

tell him this was caused by a pre cat. tell him the driver didnt think the dp was neccesary.




(i have no idea what caused the fire)

 

yeah tell him it'll prevent fire and it will also be quieter

 

"Dad, having a downpipe will PREVENT YOU from giving me 5k."

 

IMO, if it's truely your car, buy the downpipe and install it.

If you parents bought the car, their money/their rules..

 

hehe

 

just explain that this isn't like the rest of the exhaust

say that you really need this and are not going to touch the main cat or the catback for a while even though you would like to.

it shouldn't take that much convincing you are telling the truth and while it does add horsepower it is pretty much the #1 reliability mod along with a temp gauge and ast.

Or you could take him for a ride now that it's getting cold out and if he sits in the passenger side you won't even need to use the heater. His legs should feel like they are on fire. That's a clogged dp for ya.

 

check it out. he's got a cat back already. soon he'll need an upraded ECU. now your talking some money. explain that one to your father. but dad, this will also help my car not blow up

 

Tell him you're gonna hold your breath until he buys you a downpipe.

 

intake and catback already... + downpipe = time for ecu...


ecu is also a very good reliablility mod too.. a 1k one, but it'll make sure you dont boost spike which could lead to *boom*

 

 

you dont have to get the $250 M2 one, Get another one for cheaper. Hey you can even ask for it for x-mas. Combined with these stories, hed be dumb to not let you get one.

 

Everyone's Doing It!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Jimmys dad let HIM get a downpipe!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yeah, a DP will save your LIFE! (at least lessen the chance of fuel catching on fire from leaking fuel injectors...my injectors were leaking...and im suprised it never lit...the people at the Mazda dealership say I should be dead) true story.

 

Bought my car at 61K miles. THREE hoses, the charge relief, the air bypass, and the charge control vacuum line, all SHATTERED when I tried to remove them. They were rubber once.

Car took two hours to fully cool before DP, now takes 30 minutes.

 

Search for lists of reliability mods. Most of the lists you will find will have a downpipe as one of the first items.

A downpipe weighs a lot less than the pre-cat, so even if it gets just as hot, the amount of heat that it will dissipate into the engine bay is much lower than with the pre-cat. Underhood heat cooks the hoses, the battery, and all the wiring and electrical connectors. These things all get hard and brittle after a while, so reducing their baking temp helps prolong their life.

The pre-cat has failed on many cars. This can lead to overheating and even detonation. Plus, it increses underhood temps substantially. It is often hard to detect when it starts to fail, so getting rid of it early protects you from these things happening. It also screws up the boost pattern, which is something that is hard to diagnose and repair. Owners have spent lots of money chasing down boost gremlins.

-Max

 

so is a DP a do it urselfer? And if so, which one is the easiest to install with no modification, and completely clears all other items on the way down through the rest of the exhaust system? Pettit? M2? from what I've read, both of these are good, material wise, and fittment wise. One more thing....I am just about to get brand new turbos (rebuilt stock twins) and was wondering if this new DP may screw with the boost patterns. Will I run too lean? My car is completely stock otherwise. If I wont, then I'm gonna want one real soon.

 

When my precat failed (clogged & disintegrated), I believe it took out my cat as well. I had to replace both.

 

Look at rob robbinettes site about the "reliability mods".
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...eliabiltiy.htm

It's the #1 reliability mod, with his explaination...

Also, whoever said you'd need an ECU is wrong. There are other less expensive ways of controlling boost (since you've got a '94 it probably would require modification to the primary tubo snail, but that's a whole 'notha thread!). But with with the DP being the only flow mod you won't have control issues yet...

 

ES, the reason i'd need an ECU is to modify my fuel curve, not to keep boost from creeping. Ur right on the fact that there are cheaper ways to control boost.

Peace,
Zach

Thanx to every1 who has provided info. Using this and other threads about dp's, i'm pretty sure they're be one on my car by x-mas.