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HELP!! Issues with my "new" 2002 FD3S

Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:55 PM
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HELP!! Issues with my "new" 2002 FD3S

Hi, to begin the story I bought the car from Japan and Imported it to my country which is Panama, Central America. The day I got the car off from the port it was low on gas so the first thing we do was to take it to the gas station and fill it up with 95oct. ( while driving the car with empty tank to the gas station we notice tha car was having issues in WOT, it stumbles and backfires *pop sound from exhaust* but we thought it was just because it was low on fuel) after filling the car with gas it runs fine. The car starts perfectly with no hesistation and there is no weird smokes out of the exhaust.

We took the car to a rotary shop in my country for maintanance and have everything check but after just arriving to the shop the car begin to have issues, it will not accelerate, you hit the gas and the car will begin to stumble and backfiring *pop sound from exhaust* just like if there was no gas. If you push the pedal like 20% its fine but when you hit it the problem appears and it have no power to even get up a tiny hill because it will begin to Pop and fail.

We did the maintanace to the car ( change fuel filter, oil oil filter, sparkplugs) and check if the fuel tank was ok and not rust ( it was ok). So we assume it could be the fuel pump that failed so we spray directly to the engine some brake cleaner while accelerating the car and the car go all the way to redline perfectly! So we thought its the fuel pump and change it to a walbro 255lph, after the change we test the car and was the same we test again with the brake cleaner and it go all the way to redline fine..
Also the car came with a dead battery and we needed to charge it until it got to the shop and got a new one.

Any ideas to what the problem could be?? The car is 100% stock with just a 5zigen catback and 63,000 Km.


The car



Stock fuel pump
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 08:33 PM
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Is car running stock ecu. Try check error codes sounds like cars in limp mode.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 08:48 PM
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Yes it have the stock ECU, in the rotary shop they pull out code 45 using a DIY they found on the forum.

Code 45: Solenoid Valve, Charge control - open or short circuit

Originally Posted by tiger18
Is car running stock ecu. Try check error codes sounds like cars in limp mode.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 09:16 PM
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have you tried resetting the factory ECU to see if the code clears.?
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 06:02 AM
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Check solenoid charge control (one of the few under the upper intake manifold...(check solenoid and vacuum lines)





Also check the charge control actuator





Pull out check and clean injection (my 2001have similar problem sometimes) and i have a primary first laking and after broken
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 08:38 AM
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Thanks,I will check this if it solve the issue! any more inputs of what the problem could be is welcome
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 10:16 AM
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ECU could be in Limp mode, reset it
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 01:30 PM
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My car experienced those same symptoms when the map sensor line popped off.
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 04:41 PM
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Maybe get the injectors flow tested to make sure they are not clogged
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 02:11 PM
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the car was without battery for many hours so ECU already reset, we just cleaned and tested the injectors, 1 was clogged.

Now the car can go up all the way to redline with a light throttle, but whenever I go WOT the car have the issue again. any ideas? could it be the tps??
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 02:24 PM
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From: Panama
.

Last edited by jonahau; Jul 20, 2016 at 06:42 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 06:37 PM
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Is ecu still giving same code. I'd fix that before moving on. Some faults put car in limp mode. The symptoms you describe are 100% limp mode.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:30 AM
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^ this. If you replace the OEM ECU with a Power FC, the limp mode will go away but you will still be facing whatever is causing it in the first place.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 10:51 PM
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If the solenoid that controls the charge control actuator isn't working then the charge control actuator isn't closed. All boost from primary turbo will be vented through charge relief valve.

I'm still pushing car in limp mode due to faulty charge control solenoid or connection to solenoid.
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 08:57 AM
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From: Panama
I just order the Charge control solenoid from Atkins. Part number is B6AT 18 741. Hope this fix this issue

Originally Posted by tiger18
If the solenoid that controls the charge control actuator isn't working then the charge control actuator isn't closed. All boost from primary turbo will be vented through charge relief valve.

I'm still pushing car in limp mode due to faulty charge control solenoid or connection to solenoid.
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 09:18 AM
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did you check solenoid maybe crappy connection or broken wire?
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jonahau
I just order the Charge control solenoid from Atkins. Part number is B6AT 18 741. Hope this fix this issue
Doesn't your 2002 use the integrated "black box" system for solenoid control?
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 11:10 PM
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The picture above pointing to the solenoids won't help this guy, as he has a 2001 which has them all integrated into the large black box under the UIM, not separately like the early USDM cars.

I would change/replace all the spark plugs.

Check that the MAP sensor line hasn't blown off/fallen off.

Check for spark on all plugs- check coils, spark plug wires and the igniter module just for the hell of it

Check injectors as it sounds like its not getting fuel and lean backfiring- you spray fluid in and it seems to go to redline. Maybe bad/clogged injectors.

I don't think the charge control code is the root of the problem, but I would fix that as well- either you break open the big black solenoid box and replace that solenoid (they are individually removable inside the box), or you buy an entirely new big black box and replace them all at once for a fairly moderate to large $$$ cost. 'Marcus Mazda' on Facebook sells the big black solenoid box new for about $600 aussie dollars here in Australia).

Originally Posted by tiger18:

I'm still pushing car in limp mode due to faulty charge control solenoid or connection to solenoid.
I wouldn't be pushing the car in any way shape or form while driving it like this. Good way to end up with a blown engine.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 04:45 AM
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I agree that I don't think the charge control solenoid would cause this much trouble but you should fix it. CCS is part of the twin turbo control system and should limit your boost but that's all.

I agree the fuel injectors could be having problems. Clean / flow test them or swap out for ones that are very freshly cleaned. Even if it's not a problem, it's a great thing to do to ensure reliability.

MAP sensor is another top priority and simple to verify.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 12:27 PM
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I have already replaced all my sparkplugs. Injectors where checked also and the secondary injectors where clogged so they clean them but using just a brake cleaner. at first injecting the brake cleaner they where clogged and after cleaning them with the brake cleaner it begin to spray ok. But still the problem persist so I order used functional injectors from this forum and a new charge control solenoid from Atkins. When the injectors arrive I will send them to a laboratory for cleaning and testing.

This is a photo of my Map sensor, how can I test it if the sensor itself is working properly?




Originally Posted by SA3R
The picture above pointing to the solenoids won't help this guy, as he has a 2001 which has them all integrated into the large black box under the UIM, not separately like the early USDM cars.

I would change/replace all the spark plugs.

Check that the MAP sensor line hasn't blown off/fallen off.

Check for spark on all plugs- check coils, spark plug wires and the igniter module just for the hell of it

Check injectors as it sounds like its not getting fuel and lean backfiring- you spray fluid in and it seems to go to redline. Maybe bad/clogged injectors.

I don't think the charge control code is the root of the problem, but I would fix that as well- either you break open the big black solenoid box and replace that solenoid (they are individually removable inside the box), or you buy an entirely new big black box and replace them all at once for a fairly moderate to large $$$ cost. 'Marcus Mazda' on Facebook sells the big black solenoid box new for about $600 aussie dollars here in Australia).

Originally Posted by tiger18:



I wouldn't be pushing the car in any way shape or form while driving it like this. Good way to end up with a blown engine.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I agree that I don't think the charge control solenoid would cause this much trouble but you should fix it. CCS is part of the twin turbo control system and should limit your boost but that's all.

I agree the fuel injectors could be having problems. Clean / flow test them or swap out for ones that are very freshly cleaned. Even if it's not a problem, it's a great thing to do to ensure reliability.

MAP sensor is another top priority and simple to verify.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 07:44 PM
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The factory manual has a test procedure. You just need a vacuum/pressure hand pump and voltmeter to see what the signal is outputting.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 12:12 PM
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Ok, I already get the injector lab tested and cleaned. they are now flowing 550cc and 850cc respectively. checked also the fuel pressure in the rail and its ok. The problem persist
I still haven't changed the Charge control solenoid that its sending the code 45 but like you said I dont think thats the issue with the car that can not even have partial throttle. literally the car just iddle fine but if I put the foot down it just begin to pop.

I'm clueless right now to what else can be checked. Did you think getting a Haltech 1500 will help me find the issue? seens I was planning tunning it anyways but wasnt planned to be so soon.

Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I agree that I don't think the charge control solenoid would cause this much trouble but you should fix it. CCS is part of the twin turbo control system and should limit your boost but that's all.

I agree the fuel injectors could be having problems. Clean / flow test them or swap out for ones that are very freshly cleaned. Even if it's not a problem, it's a great thing to do to ensure reliability.

MAP sensor is another top priority and simple to verify.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:27 PM
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Ive had my car in limp mode due to a broke wire to oil metering pump, Car started and ran perfect, I could drive car with light throttle anything more than light throttle car bucked and banged down exhaust. If the solenoid is one of the parameters that puts the standard ECU in limp mode id still fix this to rule it out.
Have a good read about how the turbo control on this car works, the charge control valve blocks the air passage between turbo 1 and 2. If the solenoid isn't working and the charge valve isn't closing then all air from the primary turbo is going down the y pipe and out the air bypass valve (ive never had this happen so not sure what problems this would give, but defo wont see any boost).

check this link out

Troubleshooting

there is a really easy check to see if the charge control actuator is closing.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 06:36 PM
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sounds exactly like 'limp mode'...
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:04 PM
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Any update with this?


My car does the same thing after 3k it bog down, and won't rev past that and no boost


I've check this whole thread and so confused.

Gonna check my grounds maybe?!?
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