BryanDowns

iTrader: (2)

I've recently picked up a 93 rx7 w/ some issues. The motor starts and idles flawlessly. It obviously has no apex seal problems on it. It is very smooth, and I also know what a rotory with a blow apex seal sounds like, this doesnt have one.

When in nuetral, the rpm's can move throughout the range. However, if you give the throttle more than "just enough to make the rpm's rise" the motor will cut out and the RPM's will drop very quickly. The same is true when you are driving the car. You can accelerate, but not very quickly. If you push down the throttle much more than barely (and I mean barely) the motor will cut out and die.

I've been told by some it could be a pressure sensor. The mazda dealer (from the previous owner) told him the turbos were going out. (and quoted him like $4k to replace the turbos) Now, I can believe the turbos are going out on the car as it does smoke a bit on initial startup, and the car does have 70k on it. However, I find it hard to believe the motor wouldnt run with a turbo w/ a blown oil seal on it. I know the turbos still spin because you can hear them start to try to spin right before the motor cuts out on occassions. (note: while there is no boost gauge currently on the car, I doubt the car is going into positive pressure when it cuts out because of just how little throttle it really is before it dies) I've also been pointed towards the TPS sensor?

Is this a common problem that may have an easy fix, or at least somewhere easy to look? I dont expect to 100% fix the problem cheaply, or easily as it really does need a new motor soon (at least I'd expect given the mileage on the car and original motor) but I'd like to be able to drive the car as right now it cant accelerate quickly enough on the street to avoid people piling up in line behind me honking and giving me dirty looks while I am trying to accelerate from a red light.

Thanks guys

Marc01

Hrm, there are a broad spectrum of possible problems there.
TPS Could be one, but I've never heard of a bad TPS causing the motor to actually die. Could also be a map sensor, which I would be more inclined to believe. If the turbos are literally frozen, then they are just blocking the intake tract. That could cause the motor to die. I know you are knew to the car, so I dont know how comfortable you are playing with the engine. But, I'd say you need to narrow it down. It shouldn't be all that hard to tear into the intake piping to get to the front turbo. Just take off the hoses in the way all the way down to the turbo so you can see the fins. Then inspect it. The back one is actually easier to get to, if you have a lift or can fit comfortable under the car somehow. Need to check them both. If one of them is that bad off, then I'd start there. Replacing the turbos can be a pain in the butt, but I wouldn't pay any dealership $4k to do it. You can find a set of working turbos, remove and install them yourself. And end up basically just paying for the price of the turbos plus your time.

In any case, before you go and start removing and replacing parts, you need to find out whats actually the problem. So start narrowing them down. If you think its your TPS, do a search and find the inspection for the TPS. Same for the MAP and the turbos.

Congrats on the buy, if you don't get overly aggitated with the car, you'll end up loving it

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The good news is that decent set of used turbos is a $150-400. I'd buy a set right away and install them at your convenience since I doubt it's causing the engine to die.

If you can make the engine die while parked, you can verify it's not a turbo problem by removing the intake coupler closest to the battery. (Be careful nothing gets sucked in). I'll bet your problem is in the throttle assembly somewhere, maybe the Fuel pressure regulator, etc - offhand which component I'm not sure. Search the archives here, should turn up plenty of stuff. Also download the factory service manual from www.iluvmyrx7.com and read the troubleshooting chart near the end of section F.

It's probably a cheap fix if you replace with used parts, but if at some point you are removing the big manifold with the secondary throttle in it (the UIM), there are a few other parts worth replacing while you're in there.

Dave

aoteroa rotor

sounds to me that ecu might be going into fault mode ??? have you done a code check also id be checking fuel pressure can you free rev engine or is it under driving conditions

paw140

The absolute first thing you should do is read the stored trouble codes from the computer (very easy to do - do a search and you'll find the procedure). That will point you in the right direction, assuming that there are stored codes. Just offhand, though, it sounds to me like the engine is in 'limp home' mode, which can be due to any number of faults (oil metering pump, for example). Checked the fault codes and go from there.

rynberg

I'm with Paw140:

*check for ecu codes first -- search for the procedure (hint....here or www.fd3s.net)
*verify that MAP sensor is connected at BOTH ends (search for details if necessary)
*next on the hit parade would be TPS adjustment
*after that, you can start looking at fuel related problems like injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter.

First things first -- check the codes and GET A BOOST GAUGE.

OcTane

Yeah n try not to drive as much u don't want the problem gettinw worse