TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

I've been thinking about it a little more, and I find it odd that you have oil all through your intake and throttle body. To get it into all of that, even if you had a bad oil control ring, wouldn't the oil still have to go into the exhaust and then through the turbo? Meaning it'd be a bad seal in the turbo letting all that oil into the intake side.

If it's all over your throttle body, then idk how it could be your engine.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Could be separate problems. It's common for turbo rotaries to have some oil in their charge piping, intercooler, and throttle body. Notice I said 'some,' not 'alot'

Edit: Collin, do you mean the oil feed for the turbo on the front iron?

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

yeah i know idk what to do... i think today is my last day and if i dont figure it out im done for the year, this was just such an unexpected heartbreak. epecially since i got my new wheels, rolled the fenders, finished powdercoating everything etc.


dear rx7, stop breaking my heart. </3

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Hate to be the one bringing bad news, but it sounds like an engine issue to me. If it is just happening on one rotor it is hard to believe the oil is coming from the intake tract.

Remove the egi fuse and crank the car several times for 5-6 seconds at a time to try and remove as much fuel/oil in the housings as possible. Let the car run without the turbo hooked up to the manifold, just run intake elbow only and throw a filter on it. Run the engine for 20-30 minutes(you can put the turbo back on so it isnt so insanely loud) and see if the front housing is filled with oil again after the car has ran.

Testing the oil seals with the napkin and simply cranking it never raises oil pressure past 25-40psi max, which doesnt compare to the 90-100psi the engine sees on cold starts.

Simply speaking it doesnt look good with the oil coming out of the housing. When it is the turbo that is leaking oil at that rate it is pretty obvious in the downpipe or atleast it is when one is seeing the amount of oil you are.

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

well i just ran the car for almost 20minutes.... didnt stop smoking, im pretty sure its the oil seal......

dj-pulling the egi to get the fuel/oil out... do i leave the manifold/ spark plugs in?


does anyone have pics of the oil seals in the motor? just curious how its works etc for future references........

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

you can leave the motor as-is.

I'll call ya in a bit Benny, sorry to hear. We can get you taken care of.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Remove the plugs it will help clean everything out easier. However, I think you have realized the problem. I apologize for not reading the thread sooner. I just dont have the time like I used to have to be on the forum.

Rich had it right early on thinking it was an o-ring issue. Good luck with it, hopefully I am wrong.

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

does it matter if its the trailing or leading ones?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

nope, either set is fine. typically the trailings are pulled to de-flood the car due to ease of access. You can pull them if you want to, it can't hurt but with your situation it may be time to wave the white flag.

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

oh the flag has been ordered, just figuring out when to wave it.

so i pulled my UIM off again. and was greeted with more oil. has ANYONE seen this much oil in their TB??? can someone help explain this?? could this be because of the oil seal??

just header
no turbo
IC pipes on
no pcv
oil filler neck uncapped...






mind you the other end, and all IC pipes are clean....................

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

You can look on the brightside.. At least you found that loose fuel system wire. Under wot you could have blown the engine sky high if that came loose. Get all those wires soldered! Good luck w/ your problem. My motor is out right now as well. So dont feel alone. Need to retap all my manifold to block bolts as two were stripped. FUN FUn...G

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

^^ oh god i hate that....

mm more pics...




QUESTION: since i took the turbo off i was suppose to block off the oil feed line... could this be ANY reason why i might have oil in my UIm/TB?? im getting kind of skeptical... if some home the oil is going through the tb then to the UIM/LIM maybe thatwould be causing the smoke? (doubtful, just wishfully thinking......)

i just dont get how oil is in those tracks, isnt the airflow going the OPPOSITE direction the oil is coming from?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Blocking the oil sending line is fine.

Those pictures are normal for a blown oil control ring.

The car I bought with a blown ring looked just like that.

The problem gets when you know just enough to get yourself in trouble.

I believe your one of those people looking at your other thread and blown engines.

Save yourself the time/hassle/money and rebuild it yourself.

Take your time - do it right - ask if you don't know.

I don't think you do shady mechanical stuff from looking at your pwd coating etc so you should be fine.

Sounds like you might want to spend some time and redo your wiring tho.......

Building your first motor is a leap but so is a stand alone.

Both of those you need to be able to do if you really want to play with a rotary engine.

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

by pics being normal for a blown oil control ring are you refering to the oil in the tb/lim/uim?

yeah ive pretty much done everything except the internal of the motor.... im quiet scared lol....... i learned everything i know on this car... before the 7 all i knew how to do was exhaust,mp,intake, pulleys lol.......

=( whats wrong with my wiring?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Normal from what i've seen with a check valve for crank case ventalation.

Oil leaks out so that also means combustion pressure can leak in the same way.

That usually forces an abnormal amount of blow by due to the higher pressure in the oil system.


- With the wiring comment I was refering to your connector you found and what appears to be old stock wiring and connectors.

Should buy new connectors or de-pin your old connectors and redo the harness so it will be good for many years. I'm not a fan of that wiring loom on the harness. I found it seemed to put alot of stress on the wires at certain points/joints.

I'm getting off topic but this would be a good chance to learn.

Buy the soft seals and rebuild it.

All said and done should be less than 400 bucks.

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

hmm idk what youre talking about as of connector i found?... old stock wiring and connectors... well yeah what else connectors would i be using?

every harness is de-pinned and redone, so im not sure why you would be saying this? did i do something that looks wrong?



any place you recomend getting the soft seals at? i was looking last night... i only found atkins (off the top of my head) and the factory one has too much crap that i dont need....

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

so im looking at attempting this myself... what specialty tools are needed? minus the flywheel bolt... stuff i need to check clearences? caliper and...?

do i have to rebalanced my assembly if it was balanced prior if im using the same rotors, housings, and eshaft?

If it is the motor, i plan to take the short block to my mechanic and have him open it and check tolerences and inspect what needs to be replaced... then order parts and try to rebuild this myself....... =/!

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

was refering to G's 3rd Gen comment -

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/o-ring_kits.htm

about 180 bucks - but there is always misc expenses on a rebuild so it will tally close to 400ish most likley.

I really like their water jacket seals (I've used both stock and these).

Their Vinton oil control rings are a bonus that I found work very well.

That should be all you need for seals.

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

dude....my oil control ring just went out as well... ****..

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

lol we seem to be on the same boat my friend....... how can u tell its ur oil control rings? run any of the test to confirm? Are you gonna do the rebuild yourself?

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Well...I sent my turbo to turblown to get checked out....and they said it was in great condition haha. It's never smoked oil before... and definitely never at idle.. But when we reved it.. it would really smoke up the shop. Since the turbo's off and mani.. i'm gonna plug the water and oil line to the turbo.. let it run for 5 min and look for oil. Also you can check the plugs for oil build up as well... Remember you can still have good compression if the oil control rings are toast. Better to catch it early though ya know? I was planning on doing it myself as I've pretty much done everything else.. but I figure since i've never messed with any internals before.. I'm gonna ask the guys at Lucky 7 (well known socal rotary shop) to let me learn the trade.. That way I can attempt it on my own next time..But I figure there's no better way to learn than to run through it with a well known shop. Might go 1/2 bridge though.. haha. I love Overlap!!!!

What are you thinking about doing? aren't you pretty close to Goodfella's shop? you should do the same thing!

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

hmm im smoke at idle and even more when i revv

i did the same think still smokes but no oil build up on my plugs

hahaha hbp sucks lol its so loud.. i dont mind it but the attention from the cops blowssss but it could be the 4" exhaust as well lol.. but in all seriousness hbp is soo cool lol

i have noooo idea i wanna speak to dave at KDR since he built the motor... just want to see if he thinks its the oil control rings.. if so ill pull the engine out and have him tear it apart to see what happend... depending if its under warrenty/cost ill have him do it..

if not, i ordered the rebuild video from rotary aviation... depending how confident i feel after watching it will determine what i plan on doing... IRP is close by and might go to them as well... really depends what dave says and what he can do for me... im curious if it was something that went wrong in the engine or if its something i fcked up

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

With the plugs....you might not see any. i was thinking about it....the build up would prob take a bit of running in order to get that black sludge ya know? otherwise... if it's a newly occuring prob....which I take it as.. then there could be no build up. how many miles were on that motor? and Who tuned it?

I feel like I could rebuild it...but I just don't want to waste 800 bucks for a rebuild kit and then start it and ruin everything ya know? haha. If I could run through it once with a good builder I would feel way more confident in doing it. Let me know how that video is...

BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP 1/2 B-port here I come!! haha.

ALmost suicide going 1/2 b-port here in CA, but i don't care...haha

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

so i think im calling it quits and pulling the motor... is there any final suggestions what to test before i should do before pull it? when would you call it 100% oil control rings/ final test before concluding its the motor to rip apart?

R3AL.CH1CK3N

iTrader: (9)

maybe I'm way off subject, I also have HBP. My car would smoke before it was tuned and one time the boost sensor hose behind the throttle body came off and caused my motor to run super rich and couldnt even idle and when the throttle was blipped, tons of smoke would come out..lol. I would check that and have someone look at your map. it might be something stupid.. never know.