Help - Choice of Intercoolers for my stock FD
12-04-11, 08:16 AM
#27
Who say's i need a Van
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I agree with the water methanol injection. I used it for nearly two years before I upgraded my intercooler. I had done plenty of bolt on mods with the stock twins including the boost being 13psi with the aid of AI and stock intercooler. Since then I upgraded to a used Peter Farrell supercars med SMIC that I found for sale here for under $400 with the duct. I highly suggest you go AI injection.
12-04-11, 11:32 AM
#30
I have a SR Motorsports SMIC that uses the stock duct. PM if you're interested. It can also be had with the Spec '99 duct work, for a little more.
You can use your stock SMIC piping, and it fits with the Koyo radiator.
:-) neil
Here's the description:
SR Upgrade High Performance Intercooler ($799 new)
This is the SR custom built intercooler that fits in the factory location.
It is an exact bolt in. It is 3.5 inches thick and has over 269 inches of surface (compared to only 129 for the stock intercooler) At 10 psi the charge temperature was only 104 degrees on a 62 degree day with only 1.42 psi of pressure drop. It does not require the battery to be relocated or any other modifications. Made of brushed aluminum.
You can use your stock SMIC piping, and it fits with the Koyo radiator.
:-) neil
Here's the description:
SR Upgrade High Performance Intercooler ($799 new)
This is the SR custom built intercooler that fits in the factory location.
It is an exact bolt in. It is 3.5 inches thick and has over 269 inches of surface (compared to only 129 for the stock intercooler) At 10 psi the charge temperature was only 104 degrees on a 62 degree day with only 1.42 psi of pressure drop. It does not require the battery to be relocated or any other modifications. Made of brushed aluminum.
12-04-11, 11:54 AM
#31
Hey guys... thanks a lot for all of your suggestions...
Well... Greddy is a good setup, but it ain't worth my use, i know the stock intercooler is fine but Oman is a hot country and plus my fd will look sexier with a larger intercooler down there with the bumper........
Well... Greddy is a good setup, but it ain't worth my use, i know the stock intercooler is fine but Oman is a hot country and plus my fd will look sexier with a larger intercooler down there with the bumper........
12-04-11, 12:28 PM
#32
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19-20 year old plastic in a hot climate, in a hot engine bay, gets brittle with time and the last thing you want is to be driving down the road and have all your coolant dump out!
he should replace the AST while hes in there if he hasnt already.
12-04-11, 11:24 PM
#33
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
12-04-11, 11:29 PM
#34
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
i visited the seller's store and his EMUSA IC kit was one of my 4 options.
So you think EMUSA fitted good? if yes, can you please show me some pics?
Thanks
12-06-11, 01:37 AM
#38
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
12-06-11, 02:05 AM
#40
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
12-07-11, 01:20 AM
#43
With a front mount intercooler, huge amounts of airflow to the radiator are blocked off. Overheating is more (as in almost always) associated with a rise in coolant temperatures, not air intake temperatures.
That's not to say not air intakes temperatures (AITs) are not bad, because they are. That is the entire purpose of the intercooling. But with a [boosted] rotary, it is CRUCIAL that your water temperatures stay down, otherwise you can almost guarantee you will overheat and damage a coolant seal.
If you want proof of how much a fmic blocks flow to the rad, I am running a greddy fmic, A/I, and a nice big aluminum mishimoto rad. My water temps are generally anywhere from 87-91*C when the temperature is about 20*C out. Although this isn't running extremely hot, you have to keep in mind that the cooling capacity of the car in context is far more than stock. And the ouside temperature is probably considerably cooler. The upside is that my aits are generally around 40-45*C on a 20*day.
This isn't to say a fmic wouldn't work, however, you do need to be very careful about your water temps, especially given your climate. The very best thing you could do for yourself is just save up and go with a vmount. It's a proven setup and it will keep your car healthy.
That's not to say not air intakes temperatures (AITs) are not bad, because they are. That is the entire purpose of the intercooling. But with a [boosted] rotary, it is CRUCIAL that your water temperatures stay down, otherwise you can almost guarantee you will overheat and damage a coolant seal.
If you want proof of how much a fmic blocks flow to the rad, I am running a greddy fmic, A/I, and a nice big aluminum mishimoto rad. My water temps are generally anywhere from 87-91*C when the temperature is about 20*C out. Although this isn't running extremely hot, you have to keep in mind that the cooling capacity of the car in context is far more than stock. And the ouside temperature is probably considerably cooler. The upside is that my aits are generally around 40-45*C on a 20*day.
This isn't to say a fmic wouldn't work, however, you do need to be very careful about your water temps, especially given your climate. The very best thing you could do for yourself is just save up and go with a vmount. It's a proven setup and it will keep your car healthy.
12-07-11, 01:24 AM
#44
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
12-07-11, 01:42 AM
#45
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
With a front mount intercooler, huge amounts of airflow to the radiator are blocked off. Overheating is more (as in almost always) associated with a rise in coolant temperatures, not air intake temperatures.
That's not to say not air intakes temperatures (AITs) are not bad, because they are. That is the entire purpose of the intercooling. But with a [boosted] rotary, it is CRUCIAL that your water temperatures stay down, otherwise you can almost guarantee you will overheat and damage a coolant seal.
If you want proof of how much a fmic blocks flow to the rad, I am running a greddy fmic, A/I, and a nice big aluminum mishimoto rad. My water temps are generally anywhere from 87-91*C when the temperature is about 20*C out. Although this isn't running extremely hot, you have to keep in mind that the cooling capacity of the car in context is far more than stock. And the ouside temperature is probably considerably cooler. The upside is that my aits are generally around 40-45*C on a 20*day.
This isn't to say a fmic wouldn't work, however, you do need to be very careful about your water temps, especially given your climate. The very best thing you could do for yourself is just save up and go with a vmount. It's a proven setup and it will keep your car healthy.
That's not to say not air intakes temperatures (AITs) are not bad, because they are. That is the entire purpose of the intercooling. But with a [boosted] rotary, it is CRUCIAL that your water temperatures stay down, otherwise you can almost guarantee you will overheat and damage a coolant seal.
If you want proof of how much a fmic blocks flow to the rad, I am running a greddy fmic, A/I, and a nice big aluminum mishimoto rad. My water temps are generally anywhere from 87-91*C when the temperature is about 20*C out. Although this isn't running extremely hot, you have to keep in mind that the cooling capacity of the car in context is far more than stock. And the ouside temperature is probably considerably cooler. The upside is that my aits are generally around 40-45*C on a 20*day.
This isn't to say a fmic wouldn't work, however, you do need to be very careful about your water temps, especially given your climate. The very best thing you could do for yourself is just save up and go with a vmount. It's a proven setup and it will keep your car healthy.
Well, FMIC are appropriate in cold weather areas, but not in hot weather areas like my country. But i see Supras, Silvias and Skylines here running with the FMIC, I am sure they upgraded the Radiator and it's Fans.
I have a 3-Row copper radiator with OEM fans, so it will be fine if i upgrade the OEM fans with a High cooling Fans like JVT and Mishimoto and go with the MK1 FMIC kit?
Last edited by RE.Amemiya.FD3S; 12-07-11 at 02:10 AM. Reason: broken link
12-07-11, 02:24 AM
#46
Oh, now i see... It's because of the radiator, True and you have a point there.
Well, FMIC are appropriate in cold weather areas, but not in hot weather areas like my country. But i see Supras, Silvias and Skylines here running with the FMIC, I am sure they upgraded the Radiator and it's Fans.
I have a 3-Row copper radiator with OEM fans, so it will be fine if i upgrade the OEM fans with a High cooling Fans like JVT and Mishimoto and go with the MK1 FMIC kit?
Well, FMIC are appropriate in cold weather areas, but not in hot weather areas like my country. But i see Supras, Silvias and Skylines here running with the FMIC, I am sure they upgraded the Radiator and it's Fans.
I have a 3-Row copper radiator with OEM fans, so it will be fine if i upgrade the OEM fans with a High cooling Fans like JVT and Mishimoto and go with the MK1 FMIC kit?
Im sure there are many examples out there but I personally have never seen a v mount on a piston engine (meaning front mounts are the common upgrade).
It's hard to say if you would be okay running your fan + rad setup with it. Chances are it would be okay for general highway and probably even city driving, but there may be issues when you open it up. But is it really worth the risk? Honestly, what mods do you have or how much power are you making? If you are still running the stock intercooler, than it can't be too much. Honestly.. Go with either a smic or save for a v-mount. Those should be your only two options really.
And I remember you mentioned you wanted front mount for the look. If it makes you feel any better, fmic's generally take a beating. Bent fins and stuff from rocks etc etc. Takes alot of time to keep it looking good
12-07-11, 02:49 AM
#47
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
You generally can't compare rotary cooling to piston cooling since rotaries produce far more heat and are also more sensitive to it.
Im sure there are many examples out there but I personally have never seen a v mount on a piston engine (meaning front mounts are the common upgrade).
It's hard to say if you would be okay running your fan + rad setup with it. Chances are it would be okay for general highway and probably even city driving, but there may be issues when you open it up. But is it really worth the risk? Honestly, what mods do you have or how much power are you making? If you are still running the stock intercooler, than it can't be too much. Honestly.. Go with either a smic or save for a v-mount. Those should be your only two options really.
And I remember you mentioned you wanted front mount for the look. If it makes you feel any better, fmic's generally take a beating. Bent fins and stuff from rocks etc etc. Takes alot of time to keep it looking good
Im sure there are many examples out there but I personally have never seen a v mount on a piston engine (meaning front mounts are the common upgrade).
It's hard to say if you would be okay running your fan + rad setup with it. Chances are it would be okay for general highway and probably even city driving, but there may be issues when you open it up. But is it really worth the risk? Honestly, what mods do you have or how much power are you making? If you are still running the stock intercooler, than it can't be too much. Honestly.. Go with either a smic or save for a v-mount. Those should be your only two options really.
And I remember you mentioned you wanted front mount for the look. If it makes you feel any better, fmic's generally take a beating. Bent fins and stuff from rocks etc etc. Takes alot of time to keep it looking good
My engine is stock, with an RE Amemiya filter intake + HKS Hi-Power muffler exhaust, 280hp 99 spec stock twin turbos.
so i guess my preferred option is to go with SMIC or V mount, did you mean V mount fmic?
where can i get smic and v mounts, can't find nice ones on eBay, as i am outside the US.
12-07-11, 10:36 AM
#48
You can run a front mount, with an upgraded rad and removal of the belly pan. A vented hood helps too. V-mounting is the way to go but very $$$. I just converted my FMIC to a V-mount. Quite a bit of fabricating to make it all work. It helps a lot with temps in traffic. Didn't mean to leave you hanging, but the group got you covered.
12-07-11, 01:39 PM
#49
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
okay... but inorder to install a v mount you need to relocate the battery, nevetherless it's sooo expensive!
i am thinking of the SMIC, although i don't like it, but SMIC is the recommended option since i live in a hot area.
Where can i get SMIC kits? good affordable brands!
i am thinking of the SMIC, although i don't like it, but SMIC is the recommended option since i live in a hot area.
Where can i get SMIC kits? good affordable brands!
Last edited by RE.Amemiya.FD3S; 12-07-11 at 01:44 PM.
12-07-11, 01:44 PM
#50
RE Suikoayanajim
Thread Starter
i've also seen in some of fmic setups the radiators are relocated in a horizontal style... will that help cooling the radiator?????????????????????????