HELP! Car wont idle and running extremely rich
07-19-23, 07:38 PM
#26
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Putting a rag in the exhaust apparently makes it work even better. Come to think of it, you might even be able to look for exhaust leaks while you're at it if you do this...
07-19-23, 10:49 PM
#27
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Pull the filters and use the hose clamps to clamp thick plastic bags over the pipes. Spray soapy water everywhere. Apply pressure to an available vacuum nipple (with a vacuum hose and an air spray tool). Look and listen.
Putting a rag in the exhaust apparently makes it work even better. Come to think of it, you might even be able to look for exhaust leaks while you're at it if you do this...
Putting a rag in the exhaust apparently makes it work even better. Come to think of it, you might even be able to look for exhaust leaks while you're at it if you do this...
07-19-23, 11:04 PM
#28
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
it's probably not that far down... check your throttle body and elbow? that's the closest potential source of a major boost/vacuum leak to the spark plugs.
07-19-23, 11:07 PM
#29
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put some tubing in your ear and use it to listen for the source of the sound? tape the end of the hose to a rod if you have to.
it's probably not that far down... check your throttle body and elbow? that's the closest potential source of a major boost/vacuum leak to the spark plugs.
it's probably not that far down... check your throttle body and elbow? that's the closest potential source of a major boost/vacuum leak to the spark plugs.
07-19-23, 11:18 PM
#30
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
it might hold for a minute or more if everything is perfect... probably even longer if you use a real boost leak tester.
Last edited by Valkyrie; 07-19-23 at 11:22 PM.
07-20-23, 12:03 AM
#31
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07-20-23, 12:25 AM
#32
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Update, that initial leak was from my throttle body gasket going to my intake elbow, I took it off and re seated it and there’s still a slight leak so I’m definitely due for a gasket. Would that cause all my issues, or is there still something to blame for?
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07-20-23, 06:53 PM
#40
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[QUOTE=Banzai-Racing;12568856]That o-ring would have nothing to do with the vacuum reading. You can run the car with the elbow off completely and the vacuum will not be 0[/QUOTE
He is right. My car was having the exact same symptoms at idle with the corrected elbow gasket. Say my engine was blown. I had bad blowback and that was why my vacuum readings are really low (bouncing around 50-100mmHg). Would that issue be present at all RPMS? (Shaky engine, running rich, poor revving, trouble under boost…)
He is right. My car was having the exact same symptoms at idle with the corrected elbow gasket. Say my engine was blown. I had bad blowback and that was why my vacuum readings are really low (bouncing around 50-100mmHg). Would that issue be present at all RPMS? (Shaky engine, running rich, poor revving, trouble under boost…)
07-20-23, 06:55 PM
#41
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It honestly looked to be in good shape. There was slight crimping but I didn’t see anything major, it was fairly new as well. Too bad this wasn’t related to my problem. Just more one more thing wrong with my very broken car it seems lol
07-20-23, 08:12 PM
#42
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
[QUOTE=philiprivers;12568857]
You can actually make pretty good power with a blown engine. I don't think that's the issue at all.
It could just as easily be an ignition issue.
That o-ring would have nothing to do with the vacuum reading. You can run the car with the elbow off completely and the vacuum will not be 0[/QUOTE
He is right. My car was having the exact same symptoms at idle with the corrected elbow gasket. Say my engine was blown. I had bad blowback and that was why my vacuum readings are really low (bouncing around 50-100mmHg). Would that issue be present at all RPMS? (Shaky engine, running rich, poor revving, trouble under boost…)
He is right. My car was having the exact same symptoms at idle with the corrected elbow gasket. Say my engine was blown. I had bad blowback and that was why my vacuum readings are really low (bouncing around 50-100mmHg). Would that issue be present at all RPMS? (Shaky engine, running rich, poor revving, trouble under boost…)
It could just as easily be an ignition issue.
07-20-23, 08:22 PM
#43
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07-20-23, 08:36 PM
#44
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Like I said, check that your plugs are firing strongly and in the right order.
Take a slow-mo video of your plugs firing, grounded to the chassis. Or use a spark tester and have someone crank the car for you.
Disable fuel injection beforehand...
Dead ignition coils aren't that uncommon with FDs.
Also might need to pull the UIM and check that the injectors aren't leaking (which involves strapping the injectors to the rail).
But to be honest, it's probably something else, like a loose battery cable or ground...
Take a slow-mo video of your plugs firing, grounded to the chassis. Or use a spark tester and have someone crank the car for you.
Disable fuel injection beforehand...
Dead ignition coils aren't that uncommon with FDs.
Also might need to pull the UIM and check that the injectors aren't leaking (which involves strapping the injectors to the rail).
But to be honest, it's probably something else, like a loose battery cable or ground...
07-20-23, 08:53 PM
#45
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Thread Starter
Like I said, check that your plugs are firing strongly and in the right order.
Take a slow-mo video of your plugs firing, grounded to the chassis. Or use a spark tester and have someone crank the car for you.
Disable fuel injection beforehand...
Dead ignition coils aren't that uncommon with FDs.
Also might need to pull the UIM and check that the injectors aren't leaking (which involves strapping the injectors to the rail).
But to be honest, it's probably something else, like a loose battery cable or ground...
Take a slow-mo video of your plugs firing, grounded to the chassis. Or use a spark tester and have someone crank the car for you.
Disable fuel injection beforehand...
Dead ignition coils aren't that uncommon with FDs.
Also might need to pull the UIM and check that the injectors aren't leaking (which involves strapping the injectors to the rail).
But to be honest, it's probably something else, like a loose battery cable or ground...
07-20-23, 09:11 PM
#46
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
when I first started troubleshooting I was running the car and pulling plug wires to see if the issue was worse or the same and when I pulled my L2 it was nearly the same. So I changed my spark plugs (pitch black from carbon build up). Didn’t work. While my UIM was off for replacing my air temp sensor I put new plug wires and my L2 plug wire was broken off inside the coil. I thought this has got to be my issue! Sure enough started the car and it was still broken. I will check the coils with a multi meter and see if they are reading within spec.
Pulling the trailing plugs will basically make no difference if the leading plugs are working right.
The car will still start (but run very, very badly) on one rotor. But it will also run terribly if one rotor is only getting leading spark.
Last edited by Valkyrie; 07-20-23 at 09:13 PM.
07-21-23, 05:17 AM
#48
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Pull both of your trailing plugs and try this again... Pulling L2 should have made a much bigger difference.
Pulling the trailing plugs will basically make no difference if the leading plugs are working right.
The car will still start (but run very, very badly) on one rotor. But it will also run terribly if one rotor is only getting leading spark.
Pulling the trailing plugs will basically make no difference if the leading plugs are working right.
The car will still start (but run very, very badly) on one rotor. But it will also run terribly if one rotor is only getting leading spark.
07-21-23, 05:53 AM
#49
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
07-21-23, 05:57 AM
#50
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