Help, car died on way home!
#1
Drive to the unknown.
Thread Starter
Help, car died on way home!
Ok, on my way back to Missoula from Cali, I was about 140 miles from home, and the car died....
It still sounds like there's compression, there was no noise, or indication of something breaking. No fragments or material in the the oil, there was NO overheating. As I was going up a hill (after driving through a rainstorm about 40 miles back) and I lost power, almost like the motor just wound down... I didn't have anything to test the car with, I did run codes, but they were codes I had previous because of my engine swap. Any ideas? I still have to pick up the car and bring it to Missoula from Butte, but I'd like an idea of where to start..... thanx ya'll.
-Rick
It still sounds like there's compression, there was no noise, or indication of something breaking. No fragments or material in the the oil, there was NO overheating. As I was going up a hill (after driving through a rainstorm about 40 miles back) and I lost power, almost like the motor just wound down... I didn't have anything to test the car with, I did run codes, but they were codes I had previous because of my engine swap. Any ideas? I still have to pick up the car and bring it to Missoula from Butte, but I'd like an idea of where to start..... thanx ya'll.
-Rick
#3
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Ohh man, there is sh*t load of things to look at this point, well start with the most common electrical malfunction points, which apears like you might most likely have problems with, like the battery, fuses (check the main 120amp fuse by the pos. batt. terminal) it's a small box with 4-5 large fuses, if this fuse blows, the motor will turn but you will never start it, also see if any elec. connector came off...
Maybe a good thing to check the igniter on the driver side fender by the brake vac. cylinder .
There probobly is bunch of other things I'm not listing because my brain is not functionning 100% right now and can't remember.
Good luck.
Maybe a good thing to check the igniter on the driver side fender by the brake vac. cylinder .
There probobly is bunch of other things I'm not listing because my brain is not functionning 100% right now and can't remember.
Good luck.
#5
Drive to the unknown.
Thread Starter
Specifically what happened, was I was going uphill, In 5th gear, and the engine just started winding down.... there was no noise, no smoke, no indication that that anything metal broke. I got to the side of the road and tried to start it, and it wouldn't. The motor would turn, but it wouldn't fire. And the battery quickly died immediatly after.
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#10
Drive to the unknown.
Thread Starter
I'm going over to pick up the car right now to tow her home, I'll have the alternator checked out, and hope for the best.... the Alternator has around 70k on it, so who knows.... I'll hopefully have an update tonight for ya!
#12
rotor rotor pow.
iTrader: (1)
same thing happened to me yesterday too. i went for a oil change, they left the key in the ignition and door open a little for ~20 min for the change... drained the battery so they gave me a jump b4 i left. 2 min later my car died while i was driving. i figured it was the battery cuz they were telling me my battery was no good anymore... so i bought a new one. still won't crank. so... alternator went i think..
malloy's price is 170 + $5 for 2day shipping. remanufactured stock alternator... and u have t send back the core.
are there better aftermarket replacements?
malloy's price is 170 + $5 for 2day shipping. remanufactured stock alternator... and u have t send back the core.
are there better aftermarket replacements?
Last edited by sevensix; 09-19-05 at 11:54 PM.
#13
Drive to the unknown.
Thread Starter
ok, just had the alternator checked, and she's golden, still spinnin 15V and 100A..... put a charge on the battery, and the engine spun, and backed fired BAD..... However, I didn't hear the fuel pump turn on...... I did however get the pump to spin by using the diagnostics box. Think maybe the relay to turn the pump on died?
#15
Drive to the unknown.
Thread Starter
well, the plugs look ok... a little white on the front trailing and a little black on the rear trailing.... I might just swap em for the hell of it.... stilll haven't gotten a compression test done, but I did check the fuel pump, and it's sitll pumpin the go juice....
#16
Drive to the unknown.
Thread Starter
Broken down on way home revisted!
Okay, let's see if I can explain clearly, and see what ya'll think...
Last week, car died on the way home from CA. As I was going up a hill, I just lost engine power..... No noise, no pop, just a gentle decreace in RPM until the engine died.
I had the Alternator Tested, it's still good. compression is still good, clear three puff's every time you try to crank it. However, here's the odd parts....
We tried to test for spark by keeping a plug connected to one of the trailing wires, and tried to see if it'd arc to the block..... nothing.
Also, it seems that there may not be enough fuel being pumped. What is the stock psi that's needed for fuel?
any help is appreciated thanx.... and I will also be searching!
also, how do I test the igniter pack on the fender wall?
Last week, car died on the way home from CA. As I was going up a hill, I just lost engine power..... No noise, no pop, just a gentle decreace in RPM until the engine died.
I had the Alternator Tested, it's still good. compression is still good, clear three puff's every time you try to crank it. However, here's the odd parts....
We tried to test for spark by keeping a plug connected to one of the trailing wires, and tried to see if it'd arc to the block..... nothing.
Also, it seems that there may not be enough fuel being pumped. What is the stock psi that's needed for fuel?
any help is appreciated thanx.... and I will also be searching!
also, how do I test the igniter pack on the fender wall?
#17
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Sections F and G of the factory service manual will have all the info you need.
As for testing the igniter, swapping a spare is the only reasonable way to do it. Last time I read that procedure, it looks like you need an oscilloscope to check on it.
Dave
As for testing the igniter, swapping a spare is the only reasonable way to do it. Last time I read that procedure, it looks like you need an oscilloscope to check on it.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 09-23-05 at 09:33 AM.
#19
Drive to the unknown.
Thread Starter
Ok folks, here's the latest update....
My alternator is fine, I checked my fuel pump. and at the line in the bay it's at a consistant 40psi.
T1 and T2 coils seem good. 0 ohms on the a and b prongs as well as showing open from A to the Trailing outlet....
L1 and L2 tested at 12k ohms and 0 ohms from a to b prongs.
now, there's a distintive 3 puffs from the exhaust (compression seems fine) and the car will backfire upon trying to start and then nothing...
I am running out of ideas.... lol, and I'm out of money..... lol, any other ideas?
thanx
My alternator is fine, I checked my fuel pump. and at the line in the bay it's at a consistant 40psi.
T1 and T2 coils seem good. 0 ohms on the a and b prongs as well as showing open from A to the Trailing outlet....
L1 and L2 tested at 12k ohms and 0 ohms from a to b prongs.
now, there's a distintive 3 puffs from the exhaust (compression seems fine) and the car will backfire upon trying to start and then nothing...
I am running out of ideas.... lol, and I'm out of money..... lol, any other ideas?
thanx
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