Help with Battery relocation inc rear sound system help
#1
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Help with Battery relocation inc rear sound system help
Hi there, ive looked at the battery relocations which are straight forward enough but none of them include a rear sound system setup as well, and ive confused myself and dont want to blow anything.
RX7 Relocation links:
http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ery+Relocation
Found one on a Supra - i will be doing a similar setup with the stinger displays to moniter battery current etc
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...d.php?p=751540
Ive attached pictures with questions on them, pointing out the problems to make it easier for you guys.
if any ones done this before or just good with electrics please please help
cheers lee
RX7 Relocation links:
http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ery+Relocation
Found one on a Supra - i will be doing a similar setup with the stinger displays to moniter battery current etc
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...d.php?p=751540
Ive attached pictures with questions on them, pointing out the problems to make it easier for you guys.
if any ones done this before or just good with electrics please please help
cheers lee
#2
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attach that one in the left picture to the chassis to ground it out, won't make a difference, or you could just get rid of it but i would ground it.
in the right pic you only need a fuse in the one going to the amp, the other one already has a main fuse in it from the fuse block in the engine bay.
in the right pic you only need a fuse in the one going to the amp, the other one already has a main fuse in it from the fuse block in the engine bay.
#3
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Hey, that picture on the left looks familiar.
You can cut that ground line or leave it as is - it does not really make a difference.
The power lines to the amplifier should be routed from the output of the existing breaker - so you should not need two new breakers.
You can cut that ground line or leave it as is - it does not really make a difference.
The power lines to the amplifier should be routed from the output of the existing breaker - so you should not need two new breakers.
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attach that one in the left picture to the chassis to ground it out, won't make a difference, or you could just get rid of it but i would ground it.
In the right pic you only need a fuse in the one going to the amp, the other one already has a main fuse in it from the fuse block in the engine bay.
In the right pic you only need a fuse in the one going to the amp, the other one already has a main fuse in it from the fuse block in the engine bay.
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cheers
#7
if you take your car to a place like best buy, circuit city or sound advice they generally will give you a walk through on how to set up a system into your car, however finding someone more expereienced is recommended.
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#8
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Cant mate half my engine is out at the moment because im re-building, so ill just half to hope for the best
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Having done the battery relocation as well as add a small sub in the back (10" kicker) i can tell you how i went about this. With the main power line going up to the front of the car, yes i would put a breaker on this. It has 2 purposes i feel. The first one being, if you get a short any where in that long power wire going up to the front, rather then start perhaps an electrical fire, it will trip the breaker. Two being if you hide the breaker, it is a battery kill switch. Although it does cut power to your alarm, well depends on how you wire an aftermarket alarm i guess. Now with the amp, since it is a power wire coming off of the battery, i went and installed the inline fuse that comes with an amp install kit. Granted you get a lot of extra power cable with that, but i find it handy because it has everything.
I hope this helps you. If you have any questions, or are in need of a picture or 2, let me know.
I hope this helps you. If you have any questions, or are in need of a picture or 2, let me know.
#10
how big are the amps you are running? if no more than 1200 watts combined a 150a in line fuse would do.. and no you dont need two just put it right before the y splitter (the main wire to your battery) and i would keep it as close to the battery as possible
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Having done the battery relocation as well as add a small sub in the back (10" kicker) i can tell you how i went about this. With the main power line going up to the front of the car, yes i would put a breaker on this. It has 2 purposes i feel. The first one being, if you get a short any where in that long power wire going up to the front, rather then start perhaps an electrical fire, it will trip the breaker. Two being if you hide the breaker, it is a battery kill switch. Although it does cut power to your alarm, well depends on how you wire an aftermarket alarm i guess. Now with the amp, since it is a power wire coming off of the battery, i went and installed the inline fuse that comes with an amp install kit. Granted you get a lot of extra power cable with that, but i find it handy because it has everything.
I hope this helps you. If you have any questions, or are in need of a picture or 2, let me know.
I hope this helps you. If you have any questions, or are in need of a picture or 2, let me know.
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...d.php?p=751540
hes fitted a 150amp circuit breaker and extra fused power box with voltage/current display on the main power line why would you do this when you already have a main engine fuse in the fuse box? and is it possible to do his on a FD?
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Cheers mate ill i just need some more parts then ill be testing hopfully it will be all ok, what i want to know on the supra rear battery install
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...d.php?p=751540
hes fitted a 150amp circuit breaker and extra fused power box with voltage/current display on the main power line why would you do this when you already have a main engine fuse in the fuse box? and is it possible to do his on a FD?
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...d.php?p=751540
hes fitted a 150amp circuit breaker and extra fused power box with voltage/current display on the main power line why would you do this when you already have a main engine fuse in the fuse box? and is it possible to do his on a FD?
Is it possible, sure, but without seeing the pictures, its hard to say. There is a wonderful writeup you linked at the top from stanford. I used this as a reference point, and make my own modifications to suit what i wanted to do. Just as a guideline/reference.
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Link doesnt work. I have the 150 amp breaker not even a foot from the battery. I also have a fuse block for additional equipment i install in the car. The only thing i dont have is the voltage readout. PFC gives me voltage if i need to check it. I have seen the displays before, they are more common in the high end audio installations.
Is it possible, sure, but without seeing the pictures, its hard to say. There is a wonderful writeup you linked at the top from stanford. I used this as a reference point, and make my own modifications to suit what i wanted to do. Just as a guideline/reference.
Is it possible, sure, but without seeing the pictures, its hard to say. There is a wonderful writeup you linked at the top from stanford. I used this as a reference point, and make my own modifications to suit what i wanted to do. Just as a guideline/reference.
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I looked at the link at the top. From what i saw there, and the guide i used that i spoke about before. He has a different kind of battery terminals. Which is fine, as i stated before, it has to suit your application. Also a fuse block could be added in the front or rear near the battery. I would recommend near the rear, bc most of the aftermarket stuff you would install would be back there at any rate.
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